Had all the brake discs and pads done the other day on my Octy mk1 Vrs, this morning changed brake fluid by doing it the old way with a proper pipe with a none return valve, started at the furthest calliper at the rear and worked to the closest one by pumping brake pedal and keeping the res full. after i did this tryed the brake pedal to find it almost went to the floor before it went hard, so went and bought a esibleed kit and did the same thing again using this. The pedal is a little beter but travels about half way down before the brakes work. Please tell me what I have done wrong? At the moment I`m stood scratching my head

This is a regular topic and using the search facilty (e.g. try master cylinder seal) you can see many helpful posts.

Quick summary is common causes are 1) pushing the brake pedal beyond the normal range can invert the seal on the master cylinder piston, 2) using too high a pressure on the easibleed kit and 3) getting air into the ABS unit.

Solutions and hints are in the earlier posts.

I have not had this problem myself so just reiterating previous combined knowledge from the forum.

I am sure others will add more help from their experience but this should point you in the right direction as a starter.

You've used the old fashioned way which is a big no no on these cars, 99% of the time the problem is the master cylinder seal flipping that means you need a new master asking. Now and then the problem is something else but most of the time its that.

Just been out for a run in the car, the brakes work but not as they should, ie in a emergency it wouldn't stop in time. The brakes pump up nice when engine is off but once running pedal is at least half way down before there is pressure. This isn't looking good at all, guess in this occasion it's not what you know :-(

had the same problem with spongy brake pedal,after changing a brake line(to rear wheel) and brake fluid.The fluid was changed with the pressurized method .The problem was the rear brake caliper,blocked cilinder.

How far did you pump the pedal? If your doing it the old way only use 50% of travel (i.e block of wood under brake pedal)

How far did you pump the pedal? If your doing it the old way only use 50% of travel (i.e block of wood under brake pedal)

I did it the old old way to the bottom and back

Have you tried bleeding the master cylinder, I recall that it has a bleed nipple on it.

Have you tried bleeding the master cylinder, I recall that it has a bleed nipple on it.

Will have a look tomorrow after work to see if it has, I hope and fingers crossed its going to be that simple, I so wished I had looked on here first or got you guys to give me advice

Master cylinder has got 2 bleed nipples on it, you should do it (and clutch too) everytime you bleed the brakes. I've done a bleed on two VRS's with a Gunson kit but the pedals didn't feel 100% right afterwards (still a bit spongy) so IMO its a job that's best left to a garage.

Could bleeding the master cylinder and clutch resolve the problem I have?

Dunno unless you try m8, would be loads cheaper than buying a new master cylinder, give it a try

Going to give you the heads up guys on the brake situation. Done what I was told on given the master cylinder a bleed on the 2 bleeding points with great success, the front bleed point was full of air the rear was ok and so was the clutch, brake pedal now works as it should. Thanks guys I would be lost without you ;-)

that's great news m8, you're lucky.

Only way air could get there is if you let the fluid run really low or empty when you was bleeding it

that's great news m8, you're lucky.

Only way air could get there is if you let the fluid run really low or empty when you was bleeding it

I had my 2 sons help me in the bleeding of the brakes, one pumping pedal and one keeping a eye on the fluid level why I was under the car, I have a ezibleed kit now so will do it myself next time lol cheers again