I can't comment on the standard one, but the custom one for me is spot one.. IMO for the sake of the extra £££'s you're already travelling that far. Then you can say that map is designed for my car and the way that it operates. Not a base map etc etc. In this case mine on a custom map actually made 'less' power than what a typical base map would. But i'd much rather 5bhp less and have great driveability rather than another 5 bhp of pub talk and ****ty power delivery!

At the end of the day everyone's car has adapted to their driving style over years, loading a base map on it would kind of defeat the object imo.. that's just my 2 pence. One size fits all however does work for some!

This is exactly what I was thinking, and why I will definitely be going for the R-Tech custom map. I would actually be happy for my custom map to be a slight reduction on what I have at present, as my present generic pap map is far too aggressive in boost delivery and I believe that is probably part of the issues I am seeing with boost stutter and surging : constant overboost / retard cycles caused by the aggressiveness of the boost. (I do also have a brand new OEM N75 valve en route to me, in case this is a factor). I would much rather have a smoother, more progressive delivery, even if it means I only get 200 or 205 bhp. So yes, custom is the way forward.

Cheers.

Edited 5 June, 201214 yr by Longyear

R tech custom stage 1 is £200 with before and after rr's

Expect 210bhp and 240/250 lb-ft or torque! Complete transformation

Newsflash! :-

Tonight I tried something that some people across the VAG forums tell you you should never do, and that others tell you you must do when remapping this (AUQ) engine. The action has completely removed all surging behaviour from my car. (It has also reduced some of the remapped power, but it seems only because it had a nasty boost spike and overboost).

The cure came in the form of a simple "half turn' clockwise (right) rotation of the small screw in the top of the N75 valve. This adjustment increases the amount of boost that valves off to the wastegate; and has in effect 'tuned' my car's management of the boost that was set by the (still rather naff in my view) Elite Remap that I got.

Thus, as more boost is going to the wastegate because the valve is now more open, power is down a bit from the original remapped position. But as the power from the remap was so ugly and unrefined (and came after lots of surging between 2500 and 2500rpm) it really is no hardship.

The power now comes in progressively and steadily with absolutely no sign of any surging.

If you have surging and want to try this, you do so at your own risk - the adjustment screw is intended for use in the factory; it's not a user adjustment. I took the decision to try this purely because I have a new N75 on order, so if I had broken this one, it wouldn't be a problem! ........ At first I made a 1/4 turn adjustment and surging reduced but was still evident. I then made a further 1/4 turn (so 1/2 turn in total) and the surging was completely eradicated.

What I don't yet know, is whether this adjustment worked purely because by N75 was broken. (I will find out when my new N75 arrives). Or, whether any N75 valve used alongside this crappy remap would react to the spike and give the surging effect due to overboost cycles.

Which ever scenerio it proves to be I am just absolutely stoked and over the moon that I can enjoy the car, with 'more than stock power' but without the dreadful boost surging, that had me close to getting rid of this otherwise fantastic car.

Edited 5 June, 201214 yr by Longyear

im going to give the above adjustment a go myself... my only fear is damaging my turbo ?? could this be possible,,and did u make the adjustment to the n75 while it was still in place or did u remove it and then adjust ?

im going to give the above adjustment a go myself... my only fear is damaging my turbo ?? could this be possible,,and did u make the adjustment to the n75 while it was still in place or did u remove it and then adjust ?

If you're turning it down, wouldn't there be less chance of damaging the turbo?

true,,i suppose ther would,,, im a bit blonde sometimes lol

anyways,,iv made the same adjustment that longyear made to his n75 valve and hey presto,,,,!!! ALOT less surging throughout the rev range and a small drop in power...alot smoother now and still plenty of nice pull from the turbo,,iv also ordered a new n75, just encase theres any long term effects to my origional n75 due to the adjustment thanks to u agan longyear for your ebay link,,, All in all,,it seems to have worked,,im happy

im going to give the above adjustment a go myself... my only fear is damaging my turbo ?? could this be possible,,and did u make the adjustment to the n75 while it was still in place or did u remove it and then adjust ?

If you do give it a go, just make sure (I'm going to type this in bold, not to patronize but just to really push the point lol! :- )

...... you turn the screw to the right (ie... clockwise).

You can't really harm the turbo, but you very easily break your N75 valve.... and also turning the screw to the left (anti-clockwise) will tighten the valve meaning that less boost vents to the wastegate, which will increase surging notably in a car with the problem that yours and mine has.

So just go easy, turn the screw to the RIGHT, by about a 1/4 turn then go for a drive .... I guess you'll see that surging is less but still there, then make a further adjustment but if you go too far, you'll just lose a lot of boost and your car will be very slow.

You will always lose some boost doing this action, but with the right setting you will not lose a lot, and will remove the surging.

Of course, as I have said, all this 'fudge' may really be proving is that my N75 valve is broken. I'll be able to confirm that when the new one arrives. Or it could be that the remap I've got is just too peaky for any N75 valve to cope with.

We'll see ...............

Edited 5 June, 201214 yr by Longyear

If you do give it a go, just make sure (I'm going to type this in bold, not to patronize but just to really push the point lol! :- )

...... you turn the screw to the right (ie... clockwise).

You can't really harm the turbo, but you very easily break your N75 valve.... and also turning the screw to the left (anti-clockwise) will tighten the valve meaning that less boost vents to the wastegate, which will increase surging notably in a car with the problem that yours and mine has.

So just go easy, turn the screw to the RIGHT, by about a 1/4 turn then go for a drive .... I guess you'll see that surging is less but still there, then make a further adjustment but if you go too far, you'll just lose a lot of boost and your car will be very slow.

You will always lose some boost doing this action, but with the right setting you will not lose a lot, and will remove the surging.

Of course, as I have said, all this 'fudge' may really be proving is that my N75 valve is broken. I'll be able to confirm that when the new one arrives. Or it could be that the remap I've got is just too peaky for any N75 valve to cope with.

We'll see ...............

Before I do anything il wait to see what your new n75 does

i deffo turned her to the right,,only a slight touch ,,,but enough to make a differnce

true,,i suppose ther would,,, im a bit blonde sometimes lol

anyways,,iv made the same adjustment that longyear made to his n75 valve and hey presto,,,,!!! ALOT less surging throughout the rev range and a small drop in power...alot smoother now and still plenty of nice pull from the turbo,,iv also ordered a new n75, just encase theres any long term effects to my origional n75 due to the adjustment thanks to u agan longyear for your ebay link,,, All in all,,it seems to have worked,,im happy

Glad to hear you saw a positive result ......... will be interesting to see how the new N75s work out for us both .......... will hopefully resolve the surging without the need to mess with this screw, and effectively 'pre-bleed off the boost'.

The screw is only really a 'tactical' solution ......... I mean my situation is crazy : getting a remap that increases boost, to then need to adjust the N75 so that it leaks some boost to prevent the overboost cycle and subsequent surging!

ya i know what u mean longyear,,, i still have a slight surge ,,only between 3000-6000rpm,, and it cant reall be felt in 4th or 5th gear to be honest after the adjustment iv made to the n75,,, the power drop in slightly noticeable but nothing to get excited over...

depends if you turn it the right way!

ya i know what u mean longyear,,, i still have a slight surge ,,only between 3000-6000rpm,, and it cant reall be felt in 4th or 5th gear to be honest after the adjustment iv made to the n75,,, the power drop in slightly noticeable but nothing to get excited over...

You could try going a bit further with the screw. I still had a bit of surging evident after the first adjustment, so I turned another 1/4 turn and there is now absolutely no surging. But again, there is a bit more power loss. It is still faster than stock, it is more just that the boost comes in slower because by turning the screw you're allowing more boost to passively go straight to the wastegate, meaning it opens faster / under less boost. Less power, but a very smooth drive!

My brand new OE N75 has arrived in the post today but the buggers I bought the hose clips from on 31/5 have only just dispatched them today, 6 days after I paid. Yes, bank holiday and all, but if he had dispatched on the Saturday (a postal day), like the N75 seller did, they would have arrived today.

....and he's sent them 2nd class .............. so N75 change cancelled for another 2 days while I wait for the mini hose clips ....... (unless I get very impatient and go to B&Q who I believe sell the mini hose clips.

it will hold fine with no clips ;-) be good to see what its doing !!

UPDATE:

So the hunt for a long term solution to my surging issues (post remap) goes on. This evening, I have just fitted a new N75 valve;

Although I ordered a brand new OE 'F' version of the N75, an 'E' version turned up today. When I enquired on this I was told that 'E' had now replaced 'F' as the stock part for my car. A Google search shows this has happened to others and that some VW dealers are distributing the 'E' in place of the 'F' now, but other dealers seem to still give out 'F' versions.

Fitting the new N75 proved to be one of the easiest things I've ever done on the car. Sticking a flat blade screwdriver into edge of the 'use once' hose clamps got them off their ratchet things, and off they came; much much easier than I was fearing! ........

The whole N75 change (removal of old, installing of new) took a little over 10 mins. As I don't have my replacement hose clips yet, I have secured the hoses to the N75 with heavy duty cable ties. Seems pretty firm and everything seems secure.

So............ took the car out for a test drive:-

Firstly, the car is back to being an absolute flying machine. (I had previously got so fed up with the surging I'd been driving with the N75 electrically disconnected, which causes the wastegate to open up passively when the turbo hits a paltry 5psi. I then plugged the N75 back in and turned the N75s adjustment screw to the right, which bleeds more boost to the wastegate, opening it easier/quicker .... so both solutions slowed my car).

For the first few minutes of driving with the new N75 valve everything was amazing and I could not get the smile off my face. Super fast and no surging in any gear, at partial or wide open throttle. Then, 5 minutes in, there it was; a pesky surge in 3rd gear at gentle throttle. Not a huge surge, maybe 1/2 sec of surging, but enough to take the smile from my face. :( ..... I then tried to recreate the surge (same scenario) but could not..... I had another surge-free 5 mins. Then I got quite a big stutter/surge in second gear, under 3/4 throttle. Then once again it did not happen under the same recreated circumstances.

The car is 80% better to the degree that, whereas when the surging was at it's worst I was 100% decided on having the remap removed... now I'm not sure. The power is fantastic and the surging is so occasional and minimal that it would seem a shame returning to stock power.

A couple of questions for the experts:-

• The above 'test' only consisted of around 6 miles since fitting the new N75. Could it be that my ECU needs to adjust? ... could this be giving these odd, lighter boost stutters/surges?
  

• Am I right in thinking that the DV is unlikely to be a culprit as if it were shot, I'd be getting reduced boost, which I am definately not. (when I had a boost gauge fitted after the remap I was peaking at 19 and steady at around 16, and I'm confident it's delivering even more now with the new N75 valve. Therefore it seems unlikely that my DV will be causing the remaining surging.
  

I have thoroughly checked all pipework and am confident I have absolutely no leaks or splits.

So........... it looks like this last remaining 'stutter/surge' can only be down to the Elite Remap. At present I think I will still lean towards getting the standard stock map back on .... until I can afford a R-Tech map that takes account of surging and can deliver the boost in a way that avoids it.

Cheers.

Edited 6 June, 201214 yr by Longyear

Just been for an extended test drive, to put some more V-Power in the car.

Boost stutter/surge has got worse already :( .... stuttering and surging in most gears apart from 1st.

All bets are off, it has to be the remap..... (but just in case, I've ordered a new OEM DV and some of that bielectrical silicone grease stuff to do my electrical contacts with).

I had a lot of hope that the new N75 would resolve the surging but nope .... made things better for 20 miles of driving but the car has clearly re-adapted to the crap remap and the boost stutter is back with a vengeance.

Remap getting removed on Saturday.

Not sure at this point whether I will remap again, as this experience has not been fun, and at his point, I deeply regret getting a VRS, and wish I had stuck with a PD130 that has served me so well in the past. The 1.8T petrol engine and ko3 turbo are absolutely bulletproof, that I don't doubt ..... but because they don't tend to blow up, doesn't mean they all run well and I am fed up with this car being truly awful to drive.... If I hammer the car and drive WOT it's flawless, but normal smooth acceleration, at partial throttle is just awful with the boost stuttering so badly, then taking off like someone's stung it's backside.

Not a happy bunny tonight : may feel better once the stock standard map is back on.

I admit I am having evil thought of getting the car running well again on stock map, selling it and buying a 330i saloon!

Edited 6 June, 201214 yr by Longyear

Did you not upgrade the DV?

Not today, just put a new N75 on.

Have ordered a new standard Bosch DV this evening so if it arrives by Sat AM, I may just have a chance to try it before the car goes back to standard stock map! ........... but I'm not hopeful it will fix the boost stutter. AFAIK a broken DV will lower max boost, but I'm not sure it will cause boost stutter between 2500 and 3500. I don't have a problem with max boost - the car is pulling like a train once it's got past the stutters.

But we'll stick a new DV on and see...... I've also ordered some dielectric grease stuff to do the "cage mod" with the MAF as I am on my 3rd MAF in 6 weeks, and occasionally still get the ASR light coming on.

If the DV can't hold the boost then in can cause that. When you go stage 1 you're meant to upgrade the DV and panel filter. It might be the fact that the DV is not man enough!

Gone up a fair whack! still cheaper than forge

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMPBRAKE-Recirculating-Dump-Valve-CMB0966-/280888582835?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item416643a2b3

Nah, thanks, but there are two very different conflicting schools of thought on DVs on remapped cars. One is that you should use a Forge type recirc valve, and the other is that these cause surging in a lot of cars and the OE Bosch DV gives better performance!

Bearing in mind that the same DV that is in our car is used in the Audi TT 225.... so it should be fine (as long as it's in good condition, diaphragm-wise) in a remapped VRS running around 205-210bhp.

Most tuners recommend sticking with the OE DV too (eg.. REVO), some suggesting it's worth getting a new one at the point of remap .... but others (possibly R-Tech but don't quote me on that) recommend a Forge type DV.

So it's very confusing, but I'm sure a brand new OE Bosch DV will show me whether any DV change is going to resolve the boost stutter/surge.

As I said, I'm not confident but I'd love to be wrong!

Not today, just put a new N75 on.

Have ordered a new standard Bosch DV this evening so if it arrives by Sat AM, I may just have a chance to try it before the car goes back to standard stock map! ........... but I'm not hopeful it will fix the boost stutter. AFAIK a broken DV will lower max boost, but I'm not sure it will cause boost stutter between 2500 and 3500. I don't have a problem with max boost - the car is pulling like a train once it's got past the stutters.

But we'll stick a new DV on and see...... I've also ordered some dielectric grease stuff to do the "cage mod" with the MAF as I am on my 3rd MAF in 6 weeks, and occasionally still get the ASR light coming on.

The 'cage mod' should provide a fair bit of protection. Voltage leaking can cause some serious issues!

When you go stage 1 you're meant to upgrade the DV and panel filter.

I'm pretty sure that totally conflicts what "Stage 1" is all about - i.e. it's supposed to be a map for a vanilla car.

We had some bad press for this surging issue on remapped cars, but we've fixed it after a lot of hard work and updated all our customers with the newest version of the map. We might not be the cheapest but that's exactly why, customer support is very important to us and we have the knowledge and ability to overcome issues when they arise.

I read the full thread about it, Shark_90, and I think you guys got a rough deal over that, because I've heard of post-remap surging happening with lot's of vendor's remaps, certainly not just Shark users. It was also clear from that thread that you were working tirelessly to address the surging within the map. Sometimes it just comes down to personal budget though - I'd love to use a STS as it would be more convenient that travelling 100s of miles for the remap, but at this point, your product is just out of my budget, although I do not doubt for one moment that you could give me a fantastic, surge-free map If I had a newer car, I would jump for it, but it has to be borne in mind that a Shark Remap + STS would cost more than 1/4 of what my car is worth on a good day

UPDATE:-

Ok, I have been here before, but I really, really, really, really, really (ok that's enough reallys) think I may have completely removed the boost stutter/surge!!!

I woke up this morning, thinking about the car and the problem (it's become an obsession).... and I thought of all of the factors that could cause surge, and all the things I'd tried. I realized that I have been targetting things that can interact with and control the wastegate, as I have always been 99% sure that my stutter was boost related and the end-game issue seemed to be with the car's control of the wastegate. Quite what is commanding the wastegate to regulate in this way and give the stutter is another matter! : N75, DV, MAF, The Remap itself, etc, etc.

But this morning I suddenly thought : it's time to actually get off your backside and take a look at the wastegate actuator and rod themselves. So that's what I did, leaning right over the back of the engine bay, peering down the abyss between the engine and the bulkhead, you get a pretty decent view of the wastegate actuator and the actuator rod. ........and both were covered in crap! .... in fact I could see solid crappy rusty looking matter right around the rod at the point it disappears into the actuator. Now this next bit may have been genius or it may have been madness, I will let you decide, but I then put a good amount of carb cleaner all over the actuator and the rod. While I was there I could see some sort of (adjustment?) screw at the top of the rod, so although I didn't mess with this, I just checked it was tight, which it was.

I left the car for 30 minutes then went for a drive : smooth, progressive boost in every gear and absolutely no stuttering or surging (yet! ... only a 10 min drive). But at all the points it would normally boost stutter and surge, it wasn't.

Although I have not touched my brand new OE N75 (E) valve in terms of factory screw adjustment, after cleaning the actuator and rod, there seemed to be a fraction less boost but it actually felt 'right' ......... if the actuator rod had been sticking at all in either direction, this could have causd overboost spikes, which may have given the car it's 'insane' feeling when at full boost. Sometimes at partial throttle, it felt like the car would go full boost ..... sticky actuator or rod? ......... maybe.

I am avoiding getting excited and I also want to wait until my bielectric silicone grease stuff comes so I can do my MAF and N75 electrical connections (I suspect the MAF connection isn't great as the plastic around the metal pins in the plug is cracked). Of course I also have a stock Bosch DV on it's way, so all of these things together might just mean the end of all boost stutter and surge

I am out of WD40 but intend to pick some up later and put some on the actuator rod, following the cleaning with carb cleaner. There's no substitute to keeping your rod nice and greasy.

Silly talk of selling up and getting a 330i is definately on hold!

Thanks for following my rollercoaster ride! :sun:

Edited 7 June, 201214 yr by Longyear

So funny you say this, quite bizarre and very very very sad but i've got instant notifications to this thread trying to work it all out and for some reason my phone buzzed off really early this morning and work me up relating to this thread, I could tell you'd changed the topic name so I guessed the problem had returned.

As soon as I read it had returned the wastegate actuator rod popped straight into my head. I must have fell straight back to sleep because I didn't post it up there and only reading this now have I noticed thats what may have caused it.

Strange but true.

Cool story bro :wonder: