Hi everyone,

Not so long ago i replaced my VRS's headunit along with front and rear components plus a sub on top.

The items i am currently using:

- Vibe Liteair 6.5" components at front = 100W RMS (50W RMS min)

- Vibe Liteair 4" (i think) components for the rear = 70W RMS

- Vibe Active blackair 550W RMS Sub (Wired with 4 gauge cable)

- Sony Dual Din headunit with output of 52W x 4 RMS

ok to cut a long story short, i know that i am not using my 4 speakers to their full potential due to running them off of the head unit. I was thinking of just running the front speakers off of a 2 channel amp however the price difference for a 4 channel don't seem to be much more.

I am looking for at a vibe 4 channel amp which is 100W x 4RMS at 4ohms and would like to know exactly how i can add this to my system. Do i bridge my 4 gauge power wire into 2x 8 gauge or do i just run another wire being 8 gauge for the 4 channel amp?

Also would a powercap be essential?

Edited 24 August, 201213 yr by vertrider06

In terms of power, run a cable capable of handling the current for all the system with a fuse of suitable size for the whole system and wire (just add the fuses together). Then this goes to a distribution block near your amps, then from that run wire of a suitable gauge for each amp.

It is preferable to focus on good amped speakers for the front, the rear speakers are more for your passengers in the back.

Powercap is a waste of money! If you have problems with headlights dimming as the bass notes come, first thing to do is to upgrade 3 wires, the process is known as "the big three". This involves upgrading the cables from battery earth to chassis, alternator output to battery, and engine block to chassis. You don't have to replace the actual wires, you can just bolt additional ones on top. Upgrading the battery can help, and if it still struggles, then a high output alternator would be needed. The power levels you're talking about, I doubt you'll have any issues. It's only when you start talking about silly things like 2000w really.

I am guessing your head unit rating of 52w per channel is max, and not RMS. So even a 50w X4 RMS amp would be an improvement.

I have a 1 - 4 gold plated Phoenix gold distribution block at home going to waste for just your kinda problem mate. Pm me if interested.

Thanks, thats been really helpful.

You are actually right in stating that my headunit wattage is not RMS. This has given me even more of a reason to get an amp. My speakers are really underpowered which i think was the reason why one of them fried the other day... Good news is i got a replacement under Warranty for free

I appreciate the offer however a friend has a fuse-less distribution block. What im guessing i can do is put my 4 gauge power cable in the distribution block and have 2 branches coming off being 8 gauge (1 for monoblock and 1 for 4channel amp). However fuse each 8 gauge branch? or should i fuse the wire before it touches the block? or both even?

Yeah distraction block I have is fussed

Wire needs to be fused as close to the battery as possible. Luckily the Fabia has a great spot to do this with the fuse box on top of the battery. Remember the fuse is to protect the wire from causing fire, not to protect the amp. A fused distribution block is safest.

Right, i just thought it was to protect the components... I currently have my fuse for my monoblock in my boot which i now understand is too far away. So from what you are saying, put the distribution on top of the fuse box under the bonnet and then run the branches of power lead from there...

Never done this before so it's all new to me.

I'd have a separate fuse holder near battery. 4AWG through to boot. Distribution block near amps. The neatest thing to do is to create an amp rack in the boot. Have all the amps and the block screwed to a piece of MDF. You can then create a false floor by putting a piece of MDF with supporting bits each side and put some carpet over it.

The reason you protect wires with a fuse is if the wire becomes damaged, and grounds out somewhere, the wire consumes as much power as it likes, turning it into a heating element. Eventually things will melt, get hot, and potentially set on fire. A fuse pops in order to prevent this. The fuses on the amps themselves protect the amp

Yeah all makes perfect sense, appreciate the good advice. Had a good look on this site: http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm - It is really helpful and has a nice diagram of 2 amps running which is exactly what i am after.

Ok plan is to have my 4 gauge power cable run from the battery to the boot however move the fuse to under the hood and will be rated at 80 amps. Next thing to do is have the distribution block in the boot and will contain 2 x 40 amp fuses for each 8 gauge power leads branching off. Then these can plug into each amp... Right got this all figured now

Hmm i'm now thinking about that amp rack... The sub i have has the monoblock already built in (active sub) so am thinking where i can put these two other components. Guessing this won't be an easy task due to the fact that if i needed to remove these items for boot space then i will have no speaker power :/ looking at the vibe amp, it's not entirely small.

I'm trying to keep all my products in the car the same brand as i'm sure they will all benefit from each other. Also vibe products are covered by a 1 year warranty which has already saved me once...

Hi only me again...

Right yesterday i came across a bargain 4 channel amp at only £69 brand new. the amp is: http://www.amazon.co...46072411&sr=8-1

I was going to get a better amp however i thought for the price i'll give it a go and i'm sure that if i need to change amps, i'll get my money back or atleasy most of it...

The only thing i am now wondering is how to proceed with my wiring kit. Do i continue to use my 4 gauge power cable and distribute this into two 8 gauges for both the mono block and 4 channel amp or would the sub drain so much current that i would actually need to use a 0 gauge power cable for the main feed followed by 2x 4 gauge cables for the amps?

Thanks

Edited 27 August, 201213 yr by vertrider06

Ok all is wired up now and sounding really good gonna sound even better once soundproofed as well...

Ok the question you asked earlier about lights diming. Yes my lights are now diming when the volume is turned up. I will have a look into the Big 3 and get my friend to help. Do you have any recomendations on an uprated battery at all? my dad had a similar problem and once the battery was changed, all was cured

Ok all is wired up now and sounding really good gonna sound even better once soundproofed as well...

Ok the question you asked earlier about lights diming. Yes my lights are now diming when the volume is turned up. I will have a look into the Big 3 and get my friend to help. Do you have any recomendations on an uprated battery at all? my dad had a similar problem and once the battery was changed, all was cured

you want a power cap not a new battery or it'll just pull the power from the new battery till the same thing happens again. .

you want a power cap not a new battery or it'll just pull the power from the new battery till the same thing happens again. .

Disagree. See http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.php/topic/357969-power-cap-advice/ among many others.

Most of the power comes from the alternator, and some people upgrade these. Remember the amp itself acts as a power cap.

You can get batteries aimed directly at car audio, such as Optima Yellow top. Another possibility is a split charge system with a separate battery in the boot for car audio, but this is overkill for most.

Edited 16 September, 201213 yr by anewman