Anyone know the steps to do that? thinking of fixing a minor dent on the rear bumper

I would imagine it will be the same as other VAG bumpers:

Remove the rear light clusters, remove the Torx screws hidden by the clusters

remove the torx screws in the wheel arches

remove the torx screws underneath the bumper.

then slide the bumper rearwards

??

Yes, that's about it. Don't forget to pull the sides (immediately behind the wheels) outwards by about an inch before sliding the bumper rearwards.

I did find the removal of the rear light clusters very difficult, it's very difficult to get a good grip on the light cluster, and you don't want to drop it... To solve this problem for future removal actions (you already need to remove the complete unit to change a bulb), I greased the plastic plugs which position the outside of the unit with a little vaseline.

Thanks for the great instructions!

So is the acrylic portion detachable from the bumper? If they are not, using a heat gun to soften and push out will not be possible.. then I may have to consider not removing the bumper and just heating the part I wanna pop back in shape.. follow up with putty and respray the bumper

I did find the removal of the rear light clusters very difficult, it's very difficult to get a good grip on the light cluster, and you don't want to drop it..

You could try using a suction cup, like a glass holder, or if like most you don't have one to hand, even a phone or sat nav screen holder with suction cup will work in most cases

If the bumper is attached in the same fashion as the twindoor, then there is one further torx screw each side (not yet mentioned) which is just behind the wheel arch liner.

It is fitted vertically upwards amd passes through the horizontal (concealed) edge of the bumper plastic into a plastic piece set into the rear wheel arch flange (metal).

To find it initially, pull/peel back the wheel arch liner a little where the bumper meets the wing. Road muck may be concealing it a little.

On the twindoor, the bumper removes without any subframe, it just sits over/against the reinforcement beam. There's a lot of air! So your heat gun access will be fine.

When the bumper is off, you will need somewhere soft to put it down! (Blankets?)

It twists easily along its length when removed, it's easier to move around with a helper because of this: it's not heavy, just a bit cumbersome.

Be ready to disconnect the parking sensor loom if you are planning to move the bumper far off the car, I'm not sure how much slack this has or how it connects, so a helper here also.

Regards etc.

Edited 17 September, 201213 yr by CombatWombat

Hi Ril3k, hopefully this should help you along with the instructions given by members above.

wow.. thanks guys for the nice schematics and instructions.. where do u all get these stuff anyway?

where do u all get these stuff anyway?

The schematics are from Elsa (Electronic Service Information System) which is a workshop manual available on eBay (choose wisely, there are a few different sellers on there). In the right hands in allows you to dismantle your car bolt by bolt and rebuild it, it even gives you the correct torque to tighten the bolts when you do them back up. That, plus essential maintainence tasks, details of all known faults and their fixes, etc.

Even if you're not up to fixing things yourself, I personally like to be armed with as much background info as I can be before paying out for someone else to fix it for me.

Wokwon - how do you add the procedures straight into your post?

Edited 19 September, 201213 yr by artichoke273

Wokwon - how do you add the procedures straight into your post?

I screenshot the ELSA screen, upload the image to a web server and link it from there. Sometimes I have to join a few screenshots as it scrolls off the ELSA window.

The schematics are from Elsa (Electronic Service Information System) which is a workshop manual available on eBay (choose wisely, there are a few different sellers on there). In the right hands in allows you to dismantle your car bolt by bolt and rebuild it, it even gives you the correct torque to tighten the bolts when you do them back up. That, plus essential maintainence tasks, details of all known faults and their fixes, etc.

Even if you're not up to fixing things yourself, I personally like to be armed with as much background info as I can be before paying out for someone else to fix it for me.

Wokwon - how do you add the procedures straight into your post?

Could you maybe send me a link to the best/cheapest place to get ELSA?

exactly.. we should know a little about what workshops are doing. least they have no idea. Skoda is a good car but not exactly common in South East Asia.

Thanks for all the info guys! it's been very useful.

There's a couple of plastic expanding fixings, too. They will be mentioned in ELSA but aren't obvious. One is under the light clusters, the other right at the front edge where it meets the wheelarch, accessible by pulling back the liner once the screws are removed.

Could you maybe send me a link to the best/cheapest place to get ELSA?

This one is for VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda.:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Workshop-Repair-Manual-ElsaWin-v4-0-2012-/221114022644?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item337b6c3af4#ht_11000wt_942

This one is Skoda only:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-Fabia-Roomster-Octavia-Superb-Workshop-Repair-Manual-2012-/221114022695?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item337b6c3b27

They aren't the cheapest but they have one of the easiest installation interfaces and very detailed instructions.

Edited 21 September, 201213 yr by artichoke273

I always downloaded my copies of Elsawin and ETKA via www.garageforum.co.uk, but that site has been "down for maintenance" for the past month or so, so something must be have gone quite wrong there...

Thanks for the info!