Just drive the bledi thing and exercise a bit of mechanical sympathy!

Simples!!!

FFS!

Dave

Sry, double post...

Edited 17 September, 201213 yr by Jabozuma

Do they not rev the tits off them on the test bench anyway these days before they even go in the car?

Pretty sure it states in the manual NOT to leave the car sat at idle for prolonged periods. F1 engineers pre-heat the oil and fluids, they don't leave a spanking new engine sat on idle...this will just glaze your nice new bores and forever effect its performance.

Glad someone pointed this out. Leaving your car to warm up by idling is bad for it. Claiming that idling cars warm up 'faster' than moving cars is riddiculous......

Well after my little broken spring incident and the TDi coming up to 100k miles, I've taken the plunge and just bought a race blue vRS TFSI with the DSG box.

It was a bit of a hassle finding the right car/spec as there are not many new vRS petrols about (only 5 as of Saturday) and I really did not want to wait for a factory build one. I'm pretty impatient like that. So the spec I got wasn't too great but having the DSG ups the game with standard fit maxi-dot and MFSW. Managed to get the dealership to throw in the black neptunes and full size spare that was on a CR TDi in the showroom FOC. So overall very happy and it will hopefully arrive by the end of the month.

It's going to be interesting going from a stage 2 TDi to a TFSI but I think I'll be glad to be back in a petrol. Although if the dealer had his way I'd be in a Blackline instead, which they were pushing pretty hard to sell me.

Quick question, as this is my first ever brand new car, do they need to be run in these days?

Fitz.

You must of gone in earlier than me then, there was none when I asked about what was available now.

Don't worry about running the car in. It is done for you.

From the manufacturing plants car park to the train.

From the train to the ship.

From the ship to the lorry.

From the lorry into the dealers compound.

Thats around 5-10 miles of repeatedly redlining a cold engine.

By the time you get it it'll be nicely thrashed and ready for you to tootle around in!

I once watched a load of Vauxhall's been unloaded whilst stood on a cross channel ferry waiting to depart. I'm sure the drivers had a wager on who could get the 'most air' off the ferry ramp!

Cars need to be run-in in a similar fashion to how they'll be used. Idling sustained and then revving it's tits off while stationary is the worst possible thing.

It needs to be driven with load to bed in the rings. Normal driving will do this for you.

Revs down, load up. Then increase the revs occasionally as the car starts racking up the miles.

Jabozuma,

i hope your new car is being delivered by Transporter & only has 15 miles on it from the PDI.

You can be in trouble if it arrives via 'Delivery Driver' with 450 miles or so

on the clock.'

Or even coming off the docks. I have sat at a UK port waiting for a ferry and watched a cargo of new Fords being unloaded with wheelspin around the car park. Not much waiting for temp to warm up.

Thanks everyone for your comments, I've done a fair bit of reading now on the subject and coupled with my experience and knowledge of engineering I won't be taking the "gently gently approach". As far as I can make out and from what people are saying about how cars are treated being moved about from the factory etc not much mechanical sympathy has been adhered to anyway.

When it comes to brakes and tyres and such like then I will be taking it easy but to get a good seal between the piston rings and the bores quite alot of pressure needs to be applied to the rings to get them to seat correctly. After seeing quite a few pictures of "gently" run in pistons it's not a pretty sight as there appears to be quite alot of glazed oil on the surface of the piston, below the scrapper rings and in the bores themselves. Compared to an identical engine that has been driven from the factory without the gentle running in procedure there was none of the glazing seen on the piston and associated components etc.

I appreciate that there is a vast divide in peoples opinions on this subject but for this one I'm gonna take the "break it in like you would normally drive it approach". As an aside, when I was younger, I dabled quite heavily in tuned 2-stroke moto-cross bikes and they were thrashed blind straight out of the box from a cold engine. It was the norm to ping it off the red-line from cold just to warm it up.

Fitz

Revs down, load up. Then increase the revs occasionally as the car starts racking up the miles.

This is what I like about msg boards frequented by people who know stuff and on this occasion it turned out that I wasn't one of them!

It is wrong to keep a new engine idling for longer than few minutes and it should be driven at low gears with lots of throttle applied. Could be tricky to achieve with the DSG box, not sure if it's not going to kick down the gears even in "manual paddle mode"?

In my defence I must admit the last time I had grease under my fingernails was over 6 years ago and my memory was tricking me a bit here. As I started remembering how I was doing it I actually NEVER left an engine idling to get get to operating temps! I was blipping the throttle to full while applying load to the drive train to keep the revs very low.

Then I was giving it full revs and full throttle for short periods of time and cooling in between to destress and heat cycle. Then it was time to work on tolerances. The two main tools I remember using the most was cyl ver pressure gauge and gap blades (or however they are called). It was a constant battle with valve seats (hours spent with diff grade cutting compounds, cyl bore honing tools and rings spacing exercises.

The biggest problem I always had were small changes in cylinder geometry at high temperatures and resulting loss of cylinder pressure at working temps, hence me obsessing about working temps here I suppose lol.

Thanks for your help guys in getting me back on straight and narrow!

Again, do not leave new engines idling! Drive in low gears applying large amount of throttle but keeping revs low. How to a achieve it wit DSG I am not sure...

Again, apologies for confusing/annoying people here!

Fitz,

Sorry for hijacking your thread but it looks like we all came out of it with better knowledge.

I was also doing two strokes some 20 years ago and still remember melted con rods and pistons as they were not able to handle fuel mixtures I was concocting lol.

Edited 18 September, 201213 yr by Jabozuma

Fitz,

Sorry for hijacking your thread but it looks like we all came out of it with better knowledge.

I was also doing two strokes some 20 years ago and still remember melted con rods and pistons as they were not able to handle fuel mixtures I was concocting lol.

No need to say sorry mate, its good to have a balance during a conversation.

Re 2-strokes, my main headaches were over-boreing the cylinders so much then realising there was no way to get the piston rings into the bore when installing the head. Many a broken piston ring on installation led me to not go quite so dramatic on increasing the displacement and concentrate on reed valves and expansion chambers to up the power. Happy days.

Memories of getting a file out and experimental piston lightening have just flooded back!!! Not always to great results.

Edited 18 September, 201213 yr by Fitz323

I imagine this new Citigo was going to a customer

& not belonging to the person making the Video!

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/247184-whats-the-top-speed-of-the-60ps

Happy days. :rofl;

I miss the smell the most and very high revs ... And the feeling of the whole world running around in slow motion after I stepped out of the kart at the end of a good race... Getting nostalgic here lol