Well after my little broken spring incident and the TDi coming up to 100k miles, I've taken the plunge and just bought a race blue vRS TFSI with the DSG box.

It was a bit of a hassle finding the right car/spec as there are not many new vRS petrols about (only 5 as of Saturday) and I really did not want to wait for a factory build one. I'm pretty impatient like that. So the spec I got wasn't too great but having the DSG ups the game with standard fit maxi-dot and MFSW. Managed to get the dealership to throw in the black neptunes and full size spare that was on a CR TDi in the showroom FOC. So overall very happy and it will hopefully arrive by the end of the month.

It's going to be interesting going from a stage 2 TDi to a TFSI but I think I'll be glad to be back in a petrol. Although if the dealer had his way I'd be in a Blackline instead, which they were pushing pretty hard to sell me.

Quick question, as this is my first ever brand new car, do they need to be run in these days?

Fitz.

Enjoy your new car when you get it.

Not really necessary to run in an engine and gearbox these days, but Tyres need a few hundred miles to settle and scrub off,

as do the discs & pads.

As well while taking it easy during the first few hundred miles with these to give all the drivetrain a good easier start in life.

Check your Tyre pressures & set to your liking from the PDI, Set the TPMS yourself.

Dip the oil yourself when it is brand new and be sure what it is starting life with it showing.

have fun.

george

Keep the revs down from the first 1000 miles but give it some whelly to seat everything in.

As said tyres might be a bit slick from the releasing compound, and brakes need to be bedded in.

Make sure everything works and have a close check of the paint etc in good light for flaws. Few cars are built perfectly and problems are easier to get sorted the quicker you act.

Make sure the wheel bolts are on right.

I ran mine in carefully for 1000 miles. Still taking thngs easy just to be safe. I think the most important thing is to ensure the oil temp is up before reving it up to high. I would love a petrol TBH but it isnt an option for me plus it would take some getting used to the lower mpg. Enjoy.

The diesel was my original choice 3 years ago with my current vRS but now circumstances have changed I have opted to get back into a petrol. First time for me with this kind of gearbox as well and i'm remaining sceptical until I get to grips with it; heard good things about the DSG tho

As this is a performance engine it needs to be treated as such. Very simple steps but one may not have time to perform them usually.

1. Switch on and leave it idling till all instruments show full working temps

2. Then take it to full revs Three times within 1min then let it cool down for 15 mins. Repeat for 1hour

3. Let it cool down completely and repeat the whole procedure 3 times. I usually did a session in the morning (neighbours hated me lol as the engines I was doing had almost non-existent exhausts ) then lunch time and then in the afternoon.

What the above does is bedding down the engine, working out tolerances and generally settling it in. I know they do it in the factory on dynos but... Then you need to change the oil (and filter) and you can start driving.

The same procedure should be repeated while driving on a "private road" to sort out drive train and other mechanical components as well as give engine some real life loads.

I bet people will say that it is a massive overkill but I believe in this way you will end up with a car which will have much lower probability of failures and will perform better.

It should be good having up shifts of only 8ms (Ferrari Enzo has 160ms and Italia 60 ms ).

Just do not use LC too often as clutches are of a "dry design" and have less cooling than fully submerged ones like on DSG6. Bonus is it only weighs 70kg compared to 140 for wet clutch system.

I bet people will say that it is a massive overkill

This is massive overkill.

PMSL.

a Fabia vRS tsi at this time of year, about 16 degrees celcius ambiant take about 5 miles at 60-70 mph to get to 50 degrees celcius oil.

It is 8-9 miles untill you are at 80 degree & can be 20 miles before it shows 88-90 degree celcius on the Oil.

Bl00dy long time sitting 'at idle' untill you had things showing 'full working temp'.

during the winter, it would be daylight and then dark again, and you would never go anyplace.

Lets go with Modern Thinking & Fully Synthetic OIl in the year 2012.

Start it & get going, do not boot it, untill oil is up to Working Temperature,

Not 'Full Working Temperature'.

george

This is massive overkill.

Totally agreed! Id have to leave it idling for 45 minutes + for the oil to come up to temperature that way! Just dont thrash it from cold and give it a chance to cool down after a run. Once its warmed up, dont be afraid to use what it has. Ive done that to every new car ive ever had and never had an issue with the engine and its never used oil and always returned good mpg.

As I said, I was expecting such reaction . Stationery cars heat up quicker than moving ones, and you can always blip the throttle or keep it at 2k rpm while stationary. Fully synthetic oils are no black magic and all they do is to keep lubricating within wider temp bracket compared to non-synthetic and stick to parts better.

I did that on four stroke kart engines. Those engines max out at 4.5k out of factory, heavily tuned do not go above 6.3-6.4k. My one was revving at 7.5k and that was popping people eyeballs. And that was without having bottom end worked on at all...

I know that what I suggested is rather strenuous and rather hard to achieve so... nobody is putting a gun to anybody's head here

I've never read such rubbish since the Da Vinci Code :rofl:

Jabozuma,

i hope your new car is being delivered by Transporter & only has 15 miles on it from the PDI.

You can be in trouble if it arrives via 'Delivery Driver' with 450 miles or so on the clock.

eg

Do not tick 'Delivery Driver' Option on the likes of.

http://www.broadspeed.com

george

Yeah, drive the blooming thing from Stara Boleslav lol. It is a factory order at main dealers (Progress Skoda Letchworth) so I am expecting to see it arriving on the back of a transporter, thank you very much!

As this is a performance engine it needs to be treated as such. Very simple steps but one may not have time to perform them usually.

1. Switch on and leave it idling till all instruments show full working temps

2. Then take it to full revs Three times within 1min then let it cool down for 15 mins. Repeat for 1hour

3. Let it cool down completely and repeat the whole procedure 3 times. I usually did a session in the morning (neighbours hated me lol as the engines I was doing had almost non-existent exhausts ) then lunch time and then in the afternoon.

What the above does is bedding down the engine, working out tolerances and generally settling it in. I know they do it in the factory on dynos but... Then you need to change the oil (and filter) and you can start driving.

The same procedure should be repeated while driving on a "private road" to sort out drive train and other mechanical components as well as give engine some real life loads.

I bet people will say that it is a massive overkill but I believe in this way you will end up with a car which will have much lower probability of failures and will perform better.

what utter nonsense.

Same utter nonsense as the fact that F1 engines are seized and to actually be able to turn them over they are connected to oil and coolant preheating systems.

But there you, I did qualified my post by saying that most ppl would consider this to be ott

Same utter nonsense as the fact that F1 engines are seized and to actually be able to turn them over they are connected to oil and coolant preheating systems.

But there you, I did qualified my post by saying that most ppl would consider this to be ott

Did someone mention a shift time of 8 milliseconds for the DSG box?? :wonder:

Same utter nonsense as the fact that F1 engines are seized and to actually be able to turn them over they are connected to oil and coolant preheating systems.

You do realise we are talking about a consumer-grade product here?

As above, take it steady until it's warm. And if you've been working it hard, then let your pit crew cool it down properly for you.

You do realise we are talking about a consumer-grade product here?

As above, take it steady until it's warm. And if you've been working it hard, then let your pit crew cool it down properly for you.

Ha ha ha! That was always a problem with me, all or nothing type... But I still think you should have your motor fully warmed up before you give it the beans . My point of view is that this is a mass produced engine with manufacturing and fitting tolerances to follow. As rightly pointed out it is a commercial product and they have to make money with so there's no time for doing a proper job, just good enough is the way to go. So if you by chance get parts with tolerances building up your motor will be at the ragged edge and prone to damage, especially early in its life, when it is cold and rather tight...

OK, I will let you off the routine and compulsory oil change at the end of it .

I've just seen what floats in the otherwise like new and clear oil after such "breaking in" of a new engine-it sparkles like a metallic paint when you shine a bright light through it lol.

We used to change the Oil at 1000 miles on new cars

& 3000 oil changes on diesels & 6000 miles on petrols.

When we rebuilt/rebored engines we dropped the oil at 500 miles & re-torque the head bolts.

My Dad always did it again 1000 miles later.

Subaru went to 20,000 mile oil changes before going back to more often 10 years ago or so.

Lexus go to 120,000 mile before their first oil change.

Times move on and we learn about engine. Everything is not always an improvement or for the better.

Anyone can give as much care as they like,

many do almost nothing and their vehicles run on for almost ever.

george

1. Switch on and leave it idling till all instruments show full working temps

Pretty sure it states in the manual NOT to leave the car sat at idle for prolonged periods. F1 engineers pre-heat the oil and fluids, they don't leave a spanking new engine sat on idle...this will just glaze your nice new bores and forever effect its performance.

I have had the pleasure/misfortune of being the first driver of several new police cars. They get delivered with <50 miles and get thrashed from cold regularly. No mechanical sympathy whatsoever. Not once have I had one with a major engine failure and they don't drink oil. It would seem that with modern cars the engine is machined to tolerances and little bedding in is required. They get replaced at 90-100K miles.

Shame that the same cannot be said of other components. Tyres last 5k. Discs and pads 8k!!.

Pretty sure it states in the manual NOT to leave the car sat at idle for prolonged periods. F1 engineers pre-heat the oil and fluids, they don't leave a spanking new engine sat on idle...this will just glaze your nice new bores and forever effect its performance.

Leave for idle for whole day and will glaze. Never managed to glaze a bore the way I described it...

I have had the pleasure/misfortune of being the first driver of several new police cars. They get delivered with <50 miles and get thrashed from cold regularly. No mechanical sympathy whatsoever. Not once have I had one with a major engine failure and they don't drink oil. It would seem that with modern cars the engine is machined to tolerances and little bedding in is required. They get replaced at 90-100K miles.

Shame that the same cannot be said of other components. Tyres last 5k. Discs and pads 8k!!.

Define major engine failure first:)

Having to replace the engines/car at 90-100k means that they are completely wrecked. At the mileage most cars well looked after enter their prime, commonly referred to as "loosening up" whichever manifests itself in decreased fuel consumption and power output, usually not perceptible by the owner. You REALLY need to try hard to kill an engine in 90-100k...

A friend of mine was in the same position as you in the force perhaps as he was routinely testing new police cars, Evos and Scoobies for example and his evergreen was Volvo . It just did not want to die as he used to describe it lol. But we are talking here about engines which were designed to be able to produce let's say 450 bhp but were tuned by the manufacturer to 200 to make it last forever and run without oil . I was really surprised when I learned for example that one of the most popular VAG Diesels, 1.9TDi is designed to produce 250bhp .

So yes, you can abuse it no end but do not expect any kind of performance from such an engine... Or longevity or economy or ....

I think we can agree that my running in described in the original post is not applicable to commercially sold vehicles unless you are a hopelessly obsessed anorak ( ) and warming it up before tickling the loud pedal little harder is quite sufficient?

On the other hand some other friend of mine had Mazda6 Estate with oil chugger under the bonnet and they suffered from quite the opposite. They were both driving it like it was made from a very fragile crystal or something. Never revving it high at all, just doing local town short drives. They went on driving Hols to France and the car kept breaking down all the time. It turned out that it was so clogged with all sorts of deposited due never getting any decent revs or temperature that when they finally took it on a serious drive all that crap dislocated and first of all ruined the cat, not to mention the state of injectors and the head... When dealer told them that the reason for that failure was their driving style they were not too happy lol.