Just got my first Skoda, a 2000 Octavia 1.9 TDI. Been fantastic so far but the clock, trip, etc... all get reset whenever I turn off the ignition.

The guy I bought it from just put a new battery in it so is there a wire he has forgot to re-attatch, or possibly a loose wire going into the instrument cluster or is there a memory battery or something built into the instrument cluster?

Don't want to just start ripping into my dash so hope one of you guys have had this problem before.

Edited 18 October, 201213 yr by SMurphy2000

There's a fuse for it, which is quite often taken out when the dash gets dry joints

Sent from my Galaxy S3, not a Crapple!

Do you mean a fuse for the instrument cluster in the fuse box that someone has taken out, or a fuse built into the instrument cluster that gets "taken out" when the solder dries up?

Been on quite a few forums recently (looking into building a car PC) and the way some people talk/type gets quite confusing...

EDIT: Scratch that, been doing some more reading into the fuses and found some posts about removing fuse 15. Guess that is the one you mean.

Edited 18 October, 201213 yr by SMurphy2000

Yes that's the one m8

Sent from my Galaxy S3, not a Crapple!

Thanks for your help. Will try putting that fuse back in and see what happens.

Found a post that shows what solder joints get dry, so if I have problems after putting the fuse back in I'll re-solder those spots.

Hope it's an easy fix m8

Sent from my Galaxy S3, not a Crapple!

I put the fuse back in and none of my dials worked.

So tongiht I took the instrument cluster out and went over all the solder joints I could (avoided ones where I may have knocked the component off or that were very close together) on teh back of the board. The dials now all work with fuse 15 in, though when I took it for a quick drive all the dials did did to zero them come right back to where they were suppose to be. Will leave fuse 15 in to see how it goes.

What I am wondering though is how easy it is to remove the needles so I can re-solder the components on the other side of the board. Do they just pull off, and if do what is the best way to do it without damaging them. Had a look at them but they seem quite tight.

Glad you've nearly fixed it. How hard was it to solder? Don't think I'd be able to do it lol

Sent from my Galaxy S3, not a Crapple!

i would just call it a reset feature

What I am wondering though is how easy it is to remove the needles so I can re-solder the components on the other side of the board. Do they just pull off, and if do what is the best way to do it without damaging them. Had a look at them but they seem quite tight.

Here is a good thread from last month which gives you all you need (follow embeded threads too)

http://www.briskoda....roblems-solved/

Seems the needles are tight but do pull off if levered carefully. However, with a small pointed soldering iron bit and a bit of care, it is possible to get to the failed resistor joints without removing the needles.

Let us know how you get on.

Glad you've nearly fixed it. How hard was it to solder? Don't think I'd be able to do it lol

I was not sure if there are specific bits to re-solder so I just went over everything I could. Obvously the chips are hard to do as a slight wrong move will bridge the pins together.

As long as you have a pointed bit for your soldering iron, a steady hand and loads of patients you should be able to do it.

Seems the needles are tight but do pull off if levered carefully. However, with a small pointed soldering iron bit and a bit of care, it is possible to get to the failed resistor joints without removing the needles.

I did reach in and get the bits I could, but my soldering iron has a screw on it which holds the end in so that was stopping me from getting to some parts without melting the plastic.

Thanks for the link. Will have a read at it and post back how I get on.