Jump to content

speedo` (instrument cluster) problems - SOLVED


za_killer

Recommended Posts

every once in a while, as i travel at high speeds the speedo keeps jumping around the value it should actually read. this whole thing started after i took out the entire dashboard to fix some random wiring issue (not related to the instrument cluster). lately it started to fall completely to 0 for a couple of seconds, then return to normal.

a fellow working at skoda suggested a bad soldered pin on the instrument cluster would be the problem, yet he did not know which one, as none of the electricians working there ever bothered finding out. i heard it's a very common fault so i was hoping that someone could correct my assumption (believing the skoda guy) if it's wrong, and if i am right, maybe fill in the pin number to make my job easier :p

originally i was going to take the whole instr. cluster to a guy that repairs mobile phones so he could check all the pins and fix eventual dodgy connections.

any help or info is greatly appreciated

edit: was reading http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/7335-octavia-90-tdi-intermittent-instrument-panel/ and now i'm curious to confront the pin issue with the TLE 4276 issue...

Edited by za_killer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a guy on ebay that reconditions the binnacles for £80 - he claims to fit uprated parts................

EDIT, found it, I've not used him either...............

ebay link

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm no use, I thought this was going to about swimming trunks :(

And you still looked at the subject! :rofl:

BBA-REMAN also fix dashboard issues and are a known quantity but are 3 times the price of the above............

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See where it says something like "53 views" next to "2 replies"; that's the number of people who've read your post and don't know the answer.

was hoping to draw attention to my topic, but it can be done even with replies like yours...

There's a guy on ebay that reconditions the binnacles for £80 - he claims to fit uprated parts................EDIT, found it, I've not used him either...............ebay link

And you still looked at the subject! :rofl: BBA-REMAN also fix dashboard issues and are a known quantity but are 3 times the price of the above............

thanks, but i was rather looking for the cause of the problem. if it's just a quick solder there's no need to pay 80 or more on it :p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

was hoping to draw attention to my topic, but it can be done even with replies like yours...

thanks, but i was rather looking for the cause of the problem. if it's just a quick solder there's no need to pay 80 or more on it :p

The problem is VAG use cheap components on the dashes and have done for 30 years or more.......... Solder it up, don't forget the pics :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'll be out of town for the next couple of days, and if i won't get any further suggestions i'll start by checking all the pins, then soldering the TLE 4276 and some resistor bridge i found on some random tutorial. i'm hoping to get this done by the middle of next week.

as i have found none so far, i'll be trying to set up a guide on how to solve this if i succeed :)

as mentioned in the first post, suggestions are more than welcome

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

fair play, stripping down the intrusment display is, to be fair, a ballsy move! id be very much wetting myself for the 3 days it would take me to get through doing that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thanks,

My instruments had virtually ceased working.

Tried the fix which is easy provided you have a torx driver which reaches and am not too scared of the circuit board (you do need a good magnifying glass). I re soldered on both sides of the board the points mentioned and all is well again.

What I don't know is whether it is due to disturbing the connections or the excellence of my soldering!

Regards, Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

The voltage regulator gets warm, and that is probably what causes cold joints on the opposite side of the circuit board. I have resoldered the voltage regulator earlier and got the meters working for a short while. Resoldering the resistors on the opposite sides seems to be the fix!

However, now my fuel gauge has dropped to zero. I don't know if it is related to the soldering, or if I have touched any wiring behind the panel. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know which connector that holds the fuel sensor wire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Pretty easy soldering job. Reflowed the connectors, TLE4267GV50 and the 3 resistors.

Forgot the white insulating backing for the ODO LCD display first time around, and the whole unit was dead (and the car, because of the immobiliser). Once I put that back, all my previous problems disappeared:

  1. Clocks not functioning
  2. Lights-on buzzer silent
  3. Off-side rear door not unlocking with the others

Most difficult part: patience needed getting the 2 connectors lined up to be mated

Next difficult part: Getting the pointers off the clock spindles.

The soldering is the easy part. If you have just 1 car like me and can't do without for the few days you'd need to get it repaired at Cartronix, I'd recomment investing in a soldering iron with a few different sized tips and doing it yourself.

Works a treat for me now - another year passing MOT cheaply on my Octy 2000 54k mls.

Thanks za_killer & the russian original

http://translate.goo...howtopic=112337

Edited by le_soigneur
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

So this is how it will have to be done! Thanks as well za_killer, at least now I know what I have to do!

You guys reckon this could this be done by someone who has never soldered anything in his life (I am however a graphic artist, and have a very steady hand)... And I have been a fan of taking things apart and putting them back together (I am DIY in that respect).... Just never done any soldering....

Cheers,

Augusto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So this is how it will have to be done! Thanks as well za_killer, at least now I know what I have to do!

You guys reckon this could this be done by someone who has never soldered anything in his life (I am however a graphic artist, and have a very steady hand)... And I have been a fan of taking things apart and putting them back together (I am DIY in that respect).... Just never done any soldering....

Cheers,

Augusto

Do you have electronic hobby shops in Peru (similar to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RadioShack or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maplin_Electronics )? If so, I'd go there and buy an adjustable heat electronics soldering iron, some multi-core solder and some sort of electronic calculator or radio set in kit form to practice on, rather than dive straight in to something like a car instrument board.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have electronic hobby shops in Peru (similar to http://en.wikipedia....wiki/RadioShack or http://en.wikipedia....lin_Electronics )? If so, I'd go there and buy an adjustable heat electronics soldering iron, some multi-core solder and some sort of electronic calculator or radio set in kit form to practice on, rather than dive straight in to something like a car instrument board.

Thanks for the advice.... I'll go into Radio Shack and get a kit. And then I'll practice, and probably aski again exactly how I need to "resolder" the parts indicated.Until that time, no fuse 15, trip counter or clock in my Octy. At least I can see what speed I'm doing now!Cheers,Augusto

Edited by Tenorio74
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Glad I found this, joined up to say thanks for posting it!

 

My Mk1 Octavia diesel suffers from this, I'll keep using the GPS speedometer on my phone until I get around to taking the dials out but it looks less daunting with this excellent guide

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Me again :hi:

 

I did this fix today and it worked perfectly.  The odometer digits weren't clear at first and it seems I hadn't twisted the metal tabs back properly.  Worth trying it before you screw in the instrument cluster and bezel.

 

I twisted the tabs properly, tried it again and everything was great.  Thank you for the instructions!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I had the same symptoms in my car, and i tried za_killer's solution.

I tried it for 5-10 minutes and all seems to work well.

Will keep you updated if it fails again.

Thanks for sharing  :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Hi guys, I'm entirely new here on the forum, but I have read a few threads, as I search for clues as of to why my odometer shows entirely wrong numbers. as if some bars on the little lcd display are constant. meaning my car shows a "mirrored 6"-82 instead of, what I think, should be 192k's. I have come to understand that the instrument clusters on these cars are a bit less than reliable. could it be, as with the dial problems, that there are broken solders on some pins on the chip that runs the display? or might it be the display itself being faulty? I see garethj71 mentions the odometer, but I'm not entirely sure what he means by "twisting the metal tabs" 

I found this simple guide on how to possibly correct a lcd display, displaying the wrong things, but I'm not sure if it applies to this one, as I don't know if it got a ribbon cable or whatever its called.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-a-Malfunctioning-LCD/


http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/u563/StaalSchmitze/20151020_023205_zpstmg6jsxd.jpg hope you can see the pic.

Edited by neewtrom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no ribbon cable to the display, it relies on pressure applied using the metal clips at the back of the circuit board to connect between the display and the PCB. It is possible that simply removing the display and then use some alcohol based cleaner on the board to clean the contacts and reassemble. You could check the state of the components mentioned in the first post but if all is working apart from the LCD, then perhaps leave those till later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.