Thank you Dunkuk, Yeah the timing been done the mechanic said it was out when they got the car in(Traded in by previous owner I guess).

So tonight I don't think I will be able to get the CAT off on my drive and make sure its ready for work the next day.

But I managed to take some pictures....

I found a random pipe coming from underneath the battery tray could not find where its coming from.

Found the clutch linkage to be copper greased not sure if they have actual replaced the clutch

Also found some dodgy wiring

Going to get on the phone with the dealer I brought it from tomorrow, and see what they say.

Ahhhh neither front and back screen washers are working cant hear motor. My first skoda experience is not going well:(.

Also not sure if this helps each time I put the clutch down to change gear For example revs are at 3,000rpm, the time I engage the next gear the revs have dropped like a brick to idle.

Edited 12 December, 201213 yr by banburybeetle

Ok, lots of things to think about then!

My experience of the car has been that although the engine is good the rest is not very solid, its well screwed together but the parts that are screwed together are not the best, I've been a bit spoilt as I've had a Mercedes 190 and a BMW 5 series which are considered to be 2 of the best made cars ever.

It reminds me of my MK2 VW Jetta which went on for a long time not because bits lasted but because parts were cheap!

But hey its a really fun car and it's cheap so don't worry too much about these problems, I'm sure they can be sorted.

I would investigate the tube that is loose, if its a vacuum tube or similar it will affect how the engine runs. The wiring looks odd as well, I would find out what the sensor is that the wires go to as it might give you a clue. You might find taking the undertray off a good idea to see better.

Do you think the garage has just greased the link and not actually taken the car apart to fix the clutch, I've got no idea how you check but did you not notice any difference once they did it?

The dropping revs would be due to friction of some sort, on the flywheel I suppose? The flywheel is one half of the clutch isn't it.

The washer pump is quite noisy on mine so you should hear it. Should be easy enough to sort out, check the fuse then that the pump is getting 12 volts ok and go from there. I think its behind the passenger wheel arch under the plastic wheel arch cover but check first!

There seem to be a few issues here, perhaps you should put them in some sort of priority order, I would probably wait until I had a full day and take the wheel arch cover out and the undertray off and have a look at the pump, the tube and the wiring.

I've realised you must already have the tray off underneath, so I would have a look at where that tube goes.

I am sure the tube comes from the battery box, it's just a drain in case anything overspills or overflows, it's in the correct position it just discharges clear of any metal bodywork.

DB.

If you are in the AA or RAC I would contact the dealer in writing that sold you the car, pointing out all the problems encountered and inform them that you are going to get an independent inspection by (AA or RAC - whichever) and that in the event of any defects, you will expect them all to be rectified and signed off by (AA or RAC) and furthermore hold them responsible for all costs involved.

DB.

The lose tube is the drain tube from the base of the battery compartment, you'll find the top of it under the battery.<br /><br />The brown wire is not OE, it just looks wrong, has someone run an extra earth for something

Dunkak thank you again I think its the stress of it all really, saving up for a wedding and house... Just need to crack on I guess.

I am sure the tube comes from the battery box, it's just a drain in case anything overspills or overflows, it's in the correct position it just discharges clear of any metal bodywork.

DB.

I think it is, I have looked all around the battery and could not see any tube going under

If you are in the AA or RAC I would contact the dealer in writing that sold you the car, pointing out all the problems encountered and inform them that you are going to get an independent inspection by (AA or RAC - whichever) and that in the event of any defects, you will expect them all to be rectified and signed off by (AA or RAC) and furthermore hold them responsible for all costs involved.

DB.

I'm afraid I am not, I have break down cover with admiral, what I will do today (around 12) is speak the dealer, by in mind this was a second hand car dealer who did me a hand written receipt stating the car, date, amount and writing on it 30 day warranty, not sure where I stand with that.

The lose tube is the drain tube from the base of the battery compartment, you'll find the top of it under the battery.<br /><br />The brown wire is not OE, it just looks wrong, has someone run an extra earth for something

On that picture the brown/ earth wire black coating is just above it and looks like it runs in the loom, I will check this out more tonight.

Car being looked at tomorrow by a guy our family used often to see what is going on.

Do you think the garage has just greased the link and not actually taken the car apart to fix the clutch, I've got no idea how you check but did you not notice any difference once they did it?

I do not think they have replaced the clutch, the black seal between the engine and gearbox does not look new.

Taking it to someone you trust is a very good idea. I had a car years ago where I changed lots of parts, I took it to a good garage and £40 later the garage diagnosed a faulty fuel pump which I would never had found.

well I phoned the dealer owners mobile left a vm about the car saying its still not fixed and now knocking, and asked for a call back.

Dont worry i no its a pain in the ass just now but when these nigglin problems are sorted you will have a great little economical and bombproof car chin up

The lose tube is the drain tube from the base of the battery compartment, you'll find the top of it under the battery.<br /><br />The brown wire is not OE, it just looks wrong, has someone run an extra earth for something

That wire leads to this underneath (top corner of pic)

Also while trying to do the ecu reset (disconnect earth on batt for 40 mins then run for 30mins) which did nothing and did not seek for idle(idle about 900/950, and stays still). I could hear a hissing coming from the timing belt...

Timing belt - More like the vacuum box on top of the inner wing ??

DB.

Timing belt - More like the vacuum box on top of the inner wing ??

DB.

Just the fuel filter and coolant there isnt it?

Definately worh checking out the vacuum system for leaks, dont know how but sure its a common check.

Well it is easy with a petrol car as you can squirt carb cleaner over any pipes and listen for the revs to change if the cleaner gets sucked into the air intake. But on a diesel you dont take vacuum from the intake there is a pump.

This might work (looks fun almost), blowing cigar smoke into the system

Of course you should use your eyes and ears first just incase it's really obvious!

Edited 14 December, 201213 yr by Dunkuk

I have some updates first of all I rang the garage of which the dealer I brought it from, got the car from, now they said they have serviced the car for a long time and had put a re-con gearbox in and ran lovely then sold it to a girl not a dealer.... ummm.

Then I ran my mechanic who has the car and has said the timing is out by a tooth (funny enough), so he has striped the engine mount and rocker off to do that and said he is struggling to find top dead centre on the cog, as it is not marked. He also said he will start with the timing and then move to the next possibility.

The plot thickens.........

Mechanic phoned still no joy, he said the timing was fine in the end he has checked most things, only charging me £70 and hes been working on it since half 8 (Top man). What he is going to do is take it to a diesels specialist in Buckingham and see what they say but there next booking is the 4th of JAN :(

Could you not try and find another car with the same engine to drive and compare performance? A cheeky test drive? My first two cars were sub 60bhp and changing to 4th to maintain progress wasn't that uncommon.

I have got mine up to about 95, on a test track of course. That is a good test of power.

Recon gearbox, interesting, could it be one from a tdi i wonder if the ratios are the same, would explain slow acceleration in 5th. I think mine is reving away quite fast at 70, like around 2,800 or 3,000rpm

Edited 14 December, 201213 yr by Dunkuk

I have got mine up to about 95, on a test track of course. That is a good test of power.

Recon gearbox, interesting, could it be one from a tdi i wonder if the ratios are the same, would explain slow acceleration in 5th. I think mine is reving away quite fast at 70, like around 2,800 or 3,000rpm

When mine gets up to 70(when) it sits around there I think will double check when i have the car back

Could you not try and find another car with the same engine to drive and compare performance? A cheeky test drive? My first two cars were sub 60bhp and changing to 4th to maintain progress wasn't that uncommon.

Well I was getting on at junction 11 on m40 and just before I had to stop at the lights and saw another sdi 01 plate and thought "If i gun it and compare the difference(Not the best way i know)" Straight away from lights they keep pulling after from me and and I could not catch up got on the m40 at 60mph and they were off . overtaking line and left me:(

Had another look and it's about 2750rpm at 70, and should take about 6 to 7 secs 60 to 70 in 5th.

If anyone is local to me and kind enough to look at my car and I could test drive there's to see the difference. I would really appreciate it.

The mechanic dropped the car off today and will pick it up again to take it to the diesel specialist. He said he adjusted something on the fuel pump I think, which he said made it sound better less like a tractor, gave it a drive but didn't improve it so set it back.

While I got the car back I took the EGR value off cleaned it all up covered in soot. Also found that someone had put a blanking plate between the egr value and exhaust so took that out.

Disconnected this sensor (MAF?) didn't do anything

Tried this one as well and took it for a run and didn't change anything

Took this off and cleaned it all up

also a video of my tractor

Update, Halfords have said this is at fault (Throttle body sensor bit), at a cost of £360 + vat

As this is coming up on the diagnostics, un-till its replace and rolled out as a cause to this. Told halfords not to fit and will get hold of the dealer. I phoned the dealer who is having it back to try other things. He said he should be able to get the part cheaper.

Does anyone know where I stand on getting my money back if he cant fix it? He is a dealer and has given me a hand written receipt saying car I have brought ect and 30 day warranty.

Just stressing the hell of out me all this!