Has anyone done this?

Just tried doing it in my vrs and came across a few issues.

firstly i think the dealer supplied me the wrong fitting fit as the facia is wrong but also when i plug the loom which came with the kit the headunit gets no power at all.

When I use the stuff i got from cad it powers up but doesnt switch off when i remove the ignition and when i take the keys out it thinks the lights are on. Is this a simple matter of swapping the yellow and red over on the pioneer loom?

Has anyone swapped a headunit? Yes

What are you fitting?

Im fitting a Pioneer P77mp

Ah, the good ol' P77. Had one of those in a Fabia years ago

Issue with the Octy2 will be CANBUS and the Quadlock connector, for the wiring. So you'll need an ISO to Quadlock converter/adaptor. This should also sort out the power issue, so the unit gets power properly and also shuts down correctly.

this is the wiring i've bought:

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/con-ct20sk01-ct20sk01-harness-adapter-for-skoda-octavia.html

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/con-ct27aa14-ct27aa14-aerial-adapter-for-citroen-peugeot-skoda-vauxhall.html

So im using the adaptor for the block already and still get the issue

That should be fine then, as the Connects2 stuff is usually fine. I know of people using their adaptors for phone carkits in the Octy 2 as well.

They should be using standard pinouts at the Quadlock end.

Might be worth a question to Connects2 about it.

sent connects2 a msg.

Just checked my pioneer loom and its a piece of cake swapping the perm and ign live over if thats all thats needed. Just have to see what they say

i swapped the perm live and ign live over today. The headunit stays on with no keys in but the light buzzer no longer sounds.

So there must be something im missing still

im now being told that i need to run a switched live from the fuse box (presuming one down in the drivers footwell someware) to the headunit/wiringing someware.

Any ideas about this?

Has anyone have to do that to get a headunit working?

Most people swap for a CANBUS compatible headunit, so don't have these issues - it's just plug & play.

That would certainly sort the power issue, because you'd then be certain it was running from a switched live fuse. You can get to the back of the fuse compartment on the driver's side - when you open the door you'll see the panel that comes out. Then just run that underneath the dash by the top of the driver's footwell and then up to the back of the radio.