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Running in a 2.0 TDi

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I can't believe this subject hasn't been discussed yet. Maybe I have just missed the post, but I am interested in what running-in is recommended for the 2.0 TDi engine.

I know that lots of manufactures state that running-in is not required these days but is it still a good idea? It was not required for my last car but I kept it under 3000 rpm for the first 200 miles and under 4000 rpm for the first 1000 miles. I think (rightly or wrongly) that this has helped in its zero oil consumption in the first 50000 miles.

What have other people done/been advised?

I was advised (on friday when I picked up mine) that you should not rev over 3500 rpm but preferably not over 3000 for the first 500/1000. You should expect to add oil up to about 1/2 to a 1 litre within the first 10000 miles, obviously this might depend on your driving style.

  • 2 months later...

The Skoda recommendations seem to make sense for 'running in' although the same guidance could apply to any diesel engine from the last 10 years. Modern diesel engines with long life oils etc are a different beast.

The following is from the September issue of 'Diesel Car'. The article makes interesting reading

Diesel engine's nowadays have a 'bedding in' period as opposed to a 'running in' period.

A certain amount of oil passes the piston rings when the engine is new and up until the engine is 'bedded in'. Long life oils extend this period substantially especially if the car is driven gently. Such treatment can cause the cylinder bores to become 'glazed' making it difficult to fully 'bed in' the engine if at all.

You can avoid this by driving the car at light to moderate loads (no more than 1/2 throttle) for about 100 miles. You should then treat the engine progressively harsher.

VAG engines always had the reputation that they needed a bit of a thrashing to run them in. Certainly new cars I've had I've always used all the rev range and they've always loosened up nicely with no problem. :D:thumbup:

And I've always wondered about hire cars - can't believe anyone bothers running them in, yet they don't seem to suffer as a result.

Or do they?

They don't need to run them in cos they only keep them for a year before selling them off to some poor punter at an auction. They don't care because they make a fortune from them anyway.

My wife used to work in a large car complex which sells most major brands. You put your life in your hands just walking around the site because the mechanics fleece the **** out of the new cars over the speed bumps and through the car parks. We're talking brand new cars here just arrived off transporters!

I can't believe this subject hasn't been discussed yet. Maybe I have just missed the post' date=' but I am interested in what running-in is recommended for the 2.0 TDi engine.

I know that lots of manufactures state that running-in is not required these days but is it still a good idea? It was not required for my last car but I kept it under 3000 rpm for the first 200 miles and under 4000 rpm for the first 1000 miles. I think (rightly or wrongly) that this has helped in its zero oil consumption in the first 50000 miles.

What have other people done/been advised?[/quote']

I don't know about diesels, but the 2.0 FSI book definitely states run in for 1500 km. The first 1000 km you keep to moderate revs, don't let the engine labour etc. The next 500 km you give it more revs in all the gears to make the engine run in at higher engine speeds.

  • Author

Just to follow this up....

The car arrived the day before my wife went into labour :) This resulted in the first 1500 miles being driven in a very gentle manor which I'm sure all new parents can sympathise with :D

... must have been the excitement of the car that brought her on ? :)

I don't know about diesels, but the 2.0 FSI book definitely states run in for 1500 km. The first 1000 km you keep to moderate revs, don't let the engine labour etc. The next 500 km you give it more revs in all the gears to make the engine run in at higher engine speeds.

Sounds about right for a petrol engine!

I can't believe this subject hasn't been discussed yet. Maybe I have just missed the post' date=' but I am interested in what running-in is recommended for the 2.0 TDi engine.

I know that lots of manufactures state that running-in is not required these days but is it still a good idea? It was not required for my last car but I kept it under 3000 rpm for the first 200 miles and under 4000 rpm for the first 1000 miles. I think (rightly or wrongly) that this has helped in its zero oil consumption in the first 50000 miles.

What have other people done/been advised?[/quote']

One other interesting point, according to my dealer, when running in they advise against using fully synthetic oil - [semi is okay]. They reckon fully synthetic prevents good running in and just kind of glazes the metal parts instead - too slippery for its own good [maybe they should re-name it Politician Oil!].

I assume that after the engine is well bedded in, fully synethetic is okay.

I would never use mineral or semi-synthetic oil in any modern car. When you consider the potential damage that trace sulphurs etc can do to catalytic converters and the effect of the reduced film/shear strengths of these oils on highly stressed engine components, it's not worth it.

I even used fully synthetic oil on my previous rust bucket cars. None of these cars ever suffered engine failure and from what I could tell they also suffered very little engine wear too after I got them. Fiat do synthetic oil called HPX with a higher viscosity for older cars too and it's dirt cheap (

One other interesting point' date=' according to my dealer, when running in they advise against using fully synthetic oil - [semi is okay']. They reckon fully synthetic prevents good running in and just kind of glazes the metal parts instead - too slippery for its own good [maybe they should re-name it Politician Oil!].

I assume that after the engine is well bedded in, fully synethetic is okay.

IIRC production line fill for all VAG engines is fully synthetic. It must be for those set for long life servicing at build. Not so sure for any not set for LLS.

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