Thats weird mine is an electro-magnetic clutch on mine!! the outer section (the drive spindal) always spins, but there is an internal clutch with is operated on pressing the a/c button

I had a good few listens to the video lastnight - it really does sound like something is grabbing/catching on something which is moving

If the weather is any good when I finish work I will open the bonnet and record in side the engine - Try to find where the noise is coming.

Why are you completely ignoring the advice to look at the alternator clutch?

Why are you completely ignoring the advice to look at the alternator clutch?

Sorry bud. Completely missed your post. I wouldn't know where to look for this anyway but I will mention it to Skoda. Is it something you can tell me where to look however?

Almost good news for me then, as it rules out the injector really.

I replaced my loom, that did not solve it.

Have you tried adjusting the pedal as some have said previously?

It's a different fault from the mild shaking at low-revs. That's a mechanical noise...either alternator clutch-related or possibly pre-ignition, causing the hesitation in the engine.Skoda has already done the work to fix the previous issue (plus more!)- go back to them with it, as they can already rule-out what they've done, and/or replace the parts under warranty if they have failed already.

This mentions the belt and pulley

http://www.briskoda....es-please-help/

Not having a good time really lol.. Just found out with all this rain both foot wells at the back are wet too! Got it booked in at Skoda but that's on the 2nd Jan!

Diesels are funny things. Im still thinking it sounds like an injector problem. Possibly a worn seal, dirt in the injector, could be loads of things really. They do tend to make the strangest noises when they have problems.

As for the water in the foot wells it is more than likely the plastic door membranes under the door trims. Quite an easy fix as well.

Alternator clutch is within the pulley attached to the alternator so it looks just like a pulley at first glance. Cheap parts, but you need a special tool to separate the bits to take it off. Don't believe any of the garage/parts people who say that you must buy it as part of the alternator; not true.

The noise on the video is exactly similar to the noise I had when mine gave up the ghost.

Best of luck

Ah well that would tie up with mine too.

My pulley has started to make a whine/raspy kind of noise and I too get shaking while the car is warming up.

As above you need a tool that hold the pulley still while you undo the nut in the middle.

Seen them on ebay and they're not expensive.

Will be buying one at some point to do mine before it goes and destroys the belt or something with it!

Phil

Mines an impact gun.

Guys thanks for your input on this. Car has been with Skoda for 2 weeks now who says they have checked everything that could be possibly wrong, injectors, measured blocks, EGR etc but cant fault anything...

Keep mentioning the for them to check the pully but they dont come back with anything.

Mine is still a bit shakey, nothing like before, so I am going to inspect my pulley and get the mount sorted.

Any news on this mate?

Mine has decided it likes shaking again, but not regularly, some times it will, sometimes it won't. Starting to get annoyed.

You watched the video bud at the start of this thread? The shaking on idle seems okay now unless parked up hill then it shakes just alittle.

The noise heard on the video still exists as they are unable to find the problem...

I think I may have found a way to stop the car shaking at idle!

Whilst I were stuck in the traffic yesterday my rear window kept steaming up (Due to dampness in the rear footwells) If I turn on the heated windows the shaking stops! If i turn the blowers on 4 the shaking stops...

It would appear if I put a load on the battery / alternator the car no longer shakes.. Anyone had this before and know what it maybe?

Pretty sure we all said this

It highlights there cold be a fault with either the alternator, injector or timing.

If Skoda won't check the alternator clutch try an auto electrical place. Alternatively, get a thin wooden stick and put one end on different parts of the engine/alternator with other to your ear (mind your hair, tie etc near the pulley).It should give a good guide to the area of the problem. If it is the clutch then putting a load on the alternator would reduce the snatching.

Currently in discussion with the Director of the company I purchased the car from as I have had enough of the two and from the dealers. Hopefully I should get a reply today with what they are going to do about it.

I think I may have found a way to stop the car shaking at idle!

Whilst I were stuck in the traffic yesterday my rear window kept steaming up (Due to dampness in the rear footwells) If I turn on the heated windows the shaking stops! If i turn the blowers on 4 the shaking stops...

It would appear if I put a load on the battery / alternator the car no longer shakes.. Anyone had this before and know what it maybe?

Last time I'll be mentioning this, as it's been said before: a load on the electrical system (like de-mister or blower) will raise the engine revs, to stop the battery discharging. The rise in revs is what is eliminating the shake.

Last time I'll be mentioning this, as it's been said before: a load on the electrical system (like de-mister or blower) will raise the engine revs, to stop the battery discharging. The rise in revs is what is eliminating the shake.

Hi Gt-cri.

Sorry but this is incorrect - If i switch the blowers on the idle dips then goes back to were it were before I switched it on. The idle does not go any higher - The only time I have seen it do this is when cold.

I know this isnt the case because if I turn everything off so it shakes - Put my foot on the accelerator ever so slightly the shaking is still there.

What he means is for instance, if you put the blowers on, the revs would drop by, say 300rpm, however the car knows this will cause it to stall so it increases power. The revs are no higher, but the engine is under load. If you get me?

I have found the culprit of mine I do believe. Either a dodgy thermostat or injector

Sonix, have you tried your coolant sensor?

For £28 for a genuine one, could be worth a go.