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MY 12 Octavia - Some differences?

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I have been able to activate the majority of things I wanted but have had limited success with the lights. I have the Elegance so it comes with the RLS so was hopeful that with a switch upgrade I would be able to have auto (tunnel) lights and full auto CH/LH lighting. I confirmed the loom was fully wired to the switch with the purple terminal 2 wire present so assumed all I would need is a suitable switch. I enabled the manually activated CH lights in the meantime and waited for my switch. The switch was actually a Passat one but the main part numbers were correct and the price was right! I plugged the switch in and ended up with a number of issues: The headlights were on in daylight in the Auto position. No additional CH/LH functionality could be achieved and it generated 2 fault codes, 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent when in the Auto position which would clear when the switch was in a different postion, the other was 00907 - Intervention load Management which would only clear when I replaced my original switch.

(Interestingly if you configure a new Octavia on the website it offers Auto lights and CH Lights as an option but no mention of LH lights)

As an aside I also tried to activate tyre pressure monitoring which was possible on earlier models (to use without the reset button and reset with VCDS) but the controller was not accessible so threw up a CAN gateway error.

Any advice please?

Could the switch be faulty?

  • Author

It is possible but I would have thought unlikely. It is new so it may be worth me bouncing it back for a replacement.

Would be worth seeing if anyone near you has a car with auto lights so you could try it with their switch.

How did you code the TPMS?

Also if you could give a pin out of the light switch plug

colour of the wires and pin location

I will look at mine

  • Author

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f112/how-retrofit-indirect-tire-pressure-monitoring-5-minutes-7k6-50164.html

Hi Eddie,

This is a link to the TPMS monitoring activation.

The wire is purple and connects to pin 2 on the plug that connects to the back of the light switch. There should be 10 wires fully connected. Here is the link I used

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/74556-light-assist-retrofit/page__hl__light%20assist

did you tick TPMS in the gateway?

If the wire was present for auto lights what is your coding on the BCM?

Check the RLS coding and check the BCM

  • Author

I tried all the options but just got error codes. It said it couldn't communicate with the controller (4C i think) so I put everything back and gave up on the TPMS. As for the lights I have got to the bottom of the problem. There IS a purple wire present but it isn't connected to terminal 2!. I re-counted the wires and there was in fact only 9. I dismantled the connector and confirmed there was nothing connected to pin2 so I will be ordering a pair of repair wires to make the missing connection.

You shouldn't code 4C in the gateway

Check the coding in the ABS and check the instrument cluster too

  • Author

I have also posted this in the Octavia Forum but here goes:

Having removed the trim and panel to gain access to the module under the dash I have a quandry. There are 3 large 90 degree connectors that are on the underside of the unit, 1 black, 1 tan, 1 white with no obvious designation A,B,C etc. I am looking for some advice on which is which before I start unplugging and dismantling. From previous threads I am looking for Terminal A Pin 20. Thanks

BCM_zpsc45f1644.png
  • Author

Many thanks chaps. I just needed some better eyes! There is actually a tiny A, B and C on the body of the unit. The job is now done and the auto lights are now working off the sensor, CH/LH lights all working.

Hi Fatbloke which light switch did you buy ?

Did you take any install pics ?

  • Author

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321040810747?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It is a VW switch so it lights up red/amber rather than all green and the facsia is round rather than elliptical so there is a gap around the top edge but it was cheap enough as a trial rather than paying £60+ for the genuine part if it all didn't work. I didn't take any pictures but there are pics on previous theads. I could do a descriptive walkthrough if that would help anyone.

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