I've had a search but can't find the info

How do I remove the rear brake caliper ( Y reg TDI Est)? I get drag on the O/S - sqeals (occasionally) when going slowly.

Had a look but not sure how to do it - did have almighty problem getting the alloys off - never been off in 4 years - ended up pouring boiling water over the 'hub' then levered off with a strong length wood. Put back with copper-slip on the centre boss.

How does the handbrake work? Are there any manuals which basically cover the Fabia?

Any advice welcome - please guys.

with a big hammer??

does the trick on most other stuff :confused:

Caliper removes via 2 allen key bolts at the back, you will need a large size though which isn't normally in an average allen key set. Halfords do sell the correct size.

if its .ike the rest of my cars it'll be as said a large allen key from back under little plastic caps, 8mm or 10mm i think

No plastic caps on my Fabia. I got a allen key correct size from work but you need one that looks more enlongated. Hard to explain but the long side needs to be on both sides, so no short side. Else you'll find you can't put the short side in, something in the way, can't put long side in as short side doesn't give you any leverage on it.

use some grips or adjustably spanner?

I guess you could do but I just couldn't get any leverage at all. I'm guessing you mean gripping the allen key? The outside of the bolt is round so you can't grip that either.

In response to another question, Haynes haven't released a manual as apparently the Fabia isn't a popular car. Sounds daft eh?

I can't see any allen screws. Just 2 13mm bolts that the caliper slides on and the bolts that hold the caliper mount to the hub casting/forging. The 13 mm bolts seem to have a nut between the 'bit' the bolt head sits on and the rubber bellows covering the sliding area.

Anyone got a diagram????

A pic or diagram is something I can't help you with, however, if no-one else does I'll try tomorrow.

Richard

I would appreciate that, but if you've got allen screws maybe we talking about a different rear brake type?

Is it possible to post pictures on this forum, if so I'll take a coiple tomorrow - maybe someone could then help?

I should have the same as you, I have a 51 reg 100bhp TDi too.

Ok they should be the same. Exactly where are your allen screws, how many, what sort of shaft dia, length and what do they hold to what??

Also do you need to disconnet the handbrake cable to get at the pads?

At the back of the caliper 1 at top and 1 at bottom, they hold the caliper to the hub. You have the handbrake off to get at the pads, when you undo the bolts the caliper will come off. If you are only going to change pads and discs though, only undo the bottom bolt, makes it easier I found, oh and don't forget to unscrew the cap from the brake resivoir. Also you need a caliper windback tool, again Halfords stock at just

That sounds like the 2x 13 mm bolts that I have - definitely not allen screws on mine.

Are your allen screws the ones that the caliper slides on with small rubber bellows on them?

Sorry when you say handbrake off do you mean the cable disconnected from the caliper lever?

What does the wind-back tool do? I usually (when doing front pads) just push the piston back using a couple of small G-clamps - I've never had rear discs before.

I had the same questions as you a few weeks back when I wanted to change my rear pads and discs. I've been through this scene very recently.

You take handbrake off via lever inside the car. Make sure it is chocked well though and select first gear.

You need the windback tool to push the piston back else you could damage the seals on the caliper. It's very easy to use and is so obvious once you have the rear pads off. I also had never done the rears, and used to push the fronts out with a hammer. The reason I said keep one bolt in (top) is so the caliper doesn't move while you are unwinding it.

I'll get a pic of which bolts to undo tomorrow, the car is in my garage now ready for bed, but I'm going to attempt the rear parking sensors so I'll grab a pic then.

I think I got the answer to the windback tool from a Seat forum - the caliper pistons are threaded in some way. I don't actually want to replace the pads, just get the assembly apart to try to see why I get a squeal at low speeds - accasioanll in dry weather. The brake also drags after apliocation - the MOT guy pointed out the 'slightly stiff' wheel rotation in May.

I appreiate your advice Richard, thanks very much - I'll look for you pics tomorrow. Still abit foxed about allen screws though

Regards

they are normally inward facing heads mate, so you put your hand round the back of the caliper and and put the allen key in to the bolt towards you if you now what i mean.

OK guys - am I thick/blind or what! Just jacked up and looked again, now I can see the allen bolts - appear to be 8mm hex - a 5/16" allen key fits (7.9mm) but I'll get an 8mm to be sure.

If I remove the caliper - just to look for anything 'sticking' - which might cause the pads to drag - am I likley to move/disturb anything that will force me to get a windback tool? I still have 8mm of friction material on both pads (car done 36,000) so they don't need changing.

How does the handbrake mechanism inside the caliper work? I can see the lever that the cable rotates - only moves ~ 10 - 20 degrees. Is it a cam/ thread?? Anyone know?

Thanks for the advice anyway.

don't know about the handbrake but you should be alright without a windback tool(tbh i have neer used one)

try to grease the sliders for the caliper, i had these go sticky on a 106 i had and it knackered the pads on that corner

You may want to copper grease the back of the pads as this sometimes causes low speed squeaks.

I knew I wasn't going mad, glad you found them though.

Bengie

I pulled the small rubber bellows back to see the sliders and they seem pretty well greased.

The 'dragging' is obviously not major or the pads would be more worn. When I brake to 'walking pace', usually in dry weather, then release the brakes the O/S rear corner 'screams' until I build up speed again. So it seems to be a fucntion of footbrake rather than handbrake - but I don't know if/how they inter-act.

My concern is 'cos of this pasted from a Seat forum:

"DIY Rear Pad Change

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Boy was that much more difficult than it should have been.

Leon uses the "screw in" type of rear calliper piston as per some other cars I've worked on. Frustratingly though, the pistons will also spin freely and not screw in...... feckin irritating. :scream:

There is obivously an official VW tool, which I don't own. I lashed up a pair of circlip pliers with a pair of mole grips holding them open to the right amount. Does the job so long as you have had some previous experience, or some helpful pointers from your friendly neighbourhood mik.......

Pointer no1

You have to apply a fair amount of pressure against the face of the piston to stop it rotating freely. I found it best to screw the piston out (anticlockwise) a smidge (maybe quarter turn), then in again to avoid it spinning freely. Repeat this a couple of times to ensure it's moving in. This took me half an hour or so to work out....which you've now avoided

Pointer no2

When re-attaching the handbrake cable, try not to actuate the mechanism too many times - each time you do the piston screws out & eventually you have to take the bl00dy thing off again to screw the piston back in so you can get the feggin handbrake cable on.

Pointer no4

What happened to pointer no3?

Pointer no3

Ah,,,,there it is

Pointer no5

Pads (ATE Brand) are available from our very own StuartTunstall. Delivered all the way from his Eurocarparts bat-hole to your door for the princely sum of

Richard

My real problem is that the OS is stiff to turn when jacked up but the NS is free so I've got some 'stiction' somewhere - that's the only reason I want to take it apart. I have used copper grease in the past but I don't think it will fix this prob.

Halfords have stopped doing the Sykes-Pickavant tool (so my local shop tells me), now they do one by Laser? but it does not list as suitable for any VAG range.

I'll put the wheel back and wait 'til I can get one before prceeding - I think - don't want to be stuck not being able to use the car.

Thanks for all the advice guys.