Good evening folks.

Our Felicia has always had a high biting point but since it continued to work I continued to ignore it. It has now reached the point where its close to not working.

My Haynes manual says you can adjust the clutch by adjusting the nut on the arm on top of the gearbox. However when I do this it just seems to wind the clutch cable up with no noticeable difference to the biting point. So what am I doing wrong? Could someone explain the method in layman terms please.

Thanks.

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Hi ya, ideally there should be <5mm difference between the rest level of the brake & clutch pedal. As you say adjustment is available via the lever arm but depending on the age/mileage assoc with the clutch it may be the case that adjustment just won't work/help. If it's become an operational issue then replacement may need to be considered?

I was hoping adjustment would save the day and avoid the expense involved with a new clutch.

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if the biting point is tres high then there's probably not much you can do, it's just a worn clutch. Its a fairly easy DIY job to do the clutch.

How much is a clutch though? Getting to the point where I'm putting more money than the poor little car is worth into it

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How many miles since last clutch overhaul?

How much is a clutch though? Getting to the point where I'm putting more money than the poor little car is worth into it

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Clutch kit wise you'd be looking at around £60 - £80.

It's simple. Buy a new clutch and drive it [if you happen to be in the area any time soon] to a strange barn in a strange field in a strange village where you will find some strange cars and a strange person to help fit it.

I have already spoken with skodanorman regarding this, but for the benefit of anyone else that this might help it appears that the adjuster nut is siezed to the cable. I advised him to fit a new cable...the inner cable often binds up on RHD Favorits and Felicia's due to how close it runs to the exhaust manifold. On a Favorit I used to own the clutch was slipping purely because of the cable binding. Even if the clutch itself ends up being replaced I would always replace the cable first.

I had a similar problem with my Citroen ZX, cured by adding a shot of PlusGas, and going for a coffee. Just saying because it's cheaper and easier than a new cable plus fitting same.

I had a similar problem with my Citroen ZX, cured by adding a shot of PlusGas, and going for a coffee. Just saying because it's cheaper and easier than a new cable plus fitting same.

I'd have tried pouring coffee down the cable and then going for a shot of Plus Gas.

I'd have tried pouring coffee down the cable and then going for a shot of Plus Gas.

That one made my day, thanks Dave !!

Its a fairly easy DIY job to do the clutch.

I think my clutch has had it, something in the clutch or release bearing is collapsing - can feel it clattering through the pedal and drive is now very unpredictable and gear selection difficult so the car is effectively imobile in my garage which is a small council rental without light or power.

 

Two questions:

 

• How easy a DIY is it? I've only ever done old Austin 1100 clutches before which are dead easy being basically a Mini but with more elbow room. The Haynes manual for the Felicia makes it look a bit beyond my rusty skills.

 

• And there are so many new clips, pins, seals, bolts etc. they say have to be replaced I wouldn't know where to start getting all the parts together. What's the minimum I'll need beyond the clutch kit and release bearing and where would I get them?

 

(I've applied for 2 months road tax back so the car is SORN but if it's still not done at the end of that time I think I'll have to be realistic and get rid.)

 

Thanks