Help!!!!!!

I have just been out in my car and it feels as if there is less power than before I had it remapped :(

Does anyone have any suggestions as to why this would be???

The only thing I can put my finger on is I put a tank of normal unleaded in when I went on the North East Meet and has the ECU somehow changed it's output characteristics to take this into account???

I'm back on Optimax now and have been for the last 50 miles but the car feels so unresponsive.

Anyone had similar?

Just a thought but could the hot air temp be something to do with it ?

John

I thought of that John. It is about 23 deg C outside now and it has been 29+ during the day without any problems - I scooted home from work without feeling this lack of power.

Thanks though

Just a thought, check to see if your floor mat has slipped and is stopping the the pedal moving through its full travel. It happened on mine once, I couldn't get over 60 mph!

I like it - I'm on my way outside now

Nope - mat all secure and pedal able to travel all the way. Thanks though, Andy.

How about a sticking brake caliper - happened to anyone??? My front right wheel was very hot when I got out but I had been braking really hard just before hand.

Any more...???

Mark,

could be that you've got a bad tank of Optimax. I had one when remapping and the car performed not as expected. Bad Optimax can have a RON figure below unleaded.

Also as you've run a tank of unleaded I'd expect a couple of tanks of Optimax before you get the "full effect".

Bad Optimax and the current temperatures will have the car performing sluggish.

How's it actually running? Roughly or just sluggish? If you're really worried give mike a buzz.

Sticking caliper could be a possibility as well though :( but a good reason to upgrade the brakes.

Had anotehr thought; does the car making a whooshing noise? If so DV gone walkies..not holding boost.

Sorry can't be more help.

Good luck.

Adrian.

Suspect dump valve. No whistle when accelerating. Get a dealer to plug in a 1552 or get someone with VAG-COM to check it.

Originally posted by TaviaRS in this post

Suspect dump valve. No whistle when accelerating. Get a dealer to plug in a 1552 or get someone with VAG-COM to check it.

Mark, You'll be wanting your serial cable back then. I haven't even tried it yet... Let me know if you're desperate and I'll drop it in at playtime.

I must admit mine felt a wee bit out of breath on the way home this evening. Amb temp of about 29 deg C. Maybe it's just a combination of a few things but if you want to check the DV let me know. I still have my stock one in the garage when I changed to the Forge DV. Might be worth a swap as it's still fully serviceable to see whether this is the cause.

Judging by the 'nutty' cam footage the car was running ok on the day?? No excuses then when I nailed you down the A689 and round the Sedgefield r/about:D

Originally posted by panrix2002 in this post

Help!!!!!!

I have just been out in my car and it feels as if there is less power than before I had it remapped :(

Does anyone have any suggestions as to why this would be???

The only thing I can put my finger on is I put a tank of normal unleaded in when I went on the North East Meet and has the ECU somehow changed it's output characteristics to take this into account???

I'm back on Optimax now and have been for the last 50 miles but the car feels so unresponsive.

Anyone had similar?

I think that the first to check when power loss is felt, is for a failed DV... This can happen even before the whoosing effect is lost. I would therefore suggest that you check with VAG-COM. I 'd give little chances that a bad unleaded fuel and 29 deg C would make that great difference. We, here in Athens-Greece, live since May (until late October) at temperatures >28-30 degC, and bad fules are a more regular situation than in the UK :confused: Well, you feel some power loss during summer but differences aren't that great....

Chris,

we don't get the sort of temps you experience regularly that often so I think we're more prone to feel the difference.

When I had my RS remapped the temp in the bay was 38C and gave only 214bhp; Mike reckoned I also had a bad batch of fuel.

That said the car still drove so much better than standard. Couple of weeks later with cooler weather and another couple of tanks of Optimax, the car drives better still.

Went out yesterday and the car definately felt sluggish. Hot yesterday!

Mark probably has a DV problem though.

Cheers.

Adrian.

Originally posted by SkodiRS in this post

Mark probably has a DV problem though.

Cheers.

Adrian.

Uh oh, now you've got me worried.

Should I be ploughing the Jabba Group Discount back (plus some) into a decent DV, or is the stock one OK for modest tuning?

Mike,

the standard DV is fine for the remap...it's just prone to fail regardless. Just like the MAF.

I got a Bailey off Jabba anyway. Remember you'll get a 5% discount on the DV and fittings free.

Cheers.

Adrian.

I had a standard one which failed and was replaced during my remap by Mike. He said the standard one would be fine. However I'm beginning to suspect maybe it's on its way out too - or is it just that I've got used to 200 bhp and need some more now ...?

Is the DV covered by warranty?

Jimmy, how long would it take to swap the DV over just to test it out? And how much was your replacement?

Thanks for all the input

Adrian,

I don't think it's bad Optimax. I managed to get 56.2 ltrs in yesterday and it was running fine and dandy this morning and evening. Just when I went out at 8pm, it was running very much under par.

Mark

Try looking at the clip on the turbo hose? I had a similar problem i.e. no power above 3,000rpm. And discovered that the turbo hose clip had worked its why loose.

Lloyd

Standard DV

Originally posted by panrix2002 in this post

Is the DV covered by warranty?

Jimmy, how long would it take to swap the DV over just to test it out? And how much was your replacement?

Thanks for all the input

Mark, the DV should be covered under your warranty.

To swap the them over should only take about half an hour. The hardest part is cutting off the standard crappy crimped hose clips. If I remember rightly I paid about 100 quid for the forge DV.

Originally posted by SkodiRS in this post

Bad Optimax can have a RON figure below unleaded.

I say this every time someone else gives me the chance. Use SUL if you want to, but don't waste your money and risk your engine with Optimax. I'm speaking out of experience to give the other side of the coin on this one.

I hope you find the solution to the lack of grunt - there have been some good suggestions so far. MAF sensor failure on my A4 Quattro made the car run on minimum boost levels which made it feel totally flat.