Hi folks,

Driving back from shopping car was stuck in traffic and started over heating , got up to around 100/110 before traffic started moving and got onto motorway and temp came down to normal(whew) then radiator light came on and started flashing, oh pooh , came off motorway and found nearest place to stop. Parked up in a hotel, turned off car asap.

Checked and discovered water overflow empty.... :S

Checked for any leaks or issues, could not find at that point.

Got some water from friendly hotel staff. Car took 3 pints.

Drove home slowly.

Got home and did some further checking.

First i could see coolant had leaked from the CTS housing and down the side of the cylinder head, then I noticed fans were not working.

Fixed fans due to poor connections in top battery fuse box. Then went about fixing the leak.

Thought I would do a DIY thread here in techi section for coolant housing replacement:

http://www.briskoda....sensor-housing/

Now is a good time to check fans and leaks as weather warming up guys.

FYI , The Aircon should trigger both fans to come on. Without Aircon switched on, the single fan should come on to cool engine down. As I have Forge front mount i am thinking that in traffic even less air is getting to rad, which should not cause issues if fan works TBH but I am going to fit a inline switch to dash to control fan when i need it, to be safe.

Your "how to" guides are sooo helpful, the pictures are ace.

Thanks Mark

Your "how to" guides are sooo helpful, the pictures are ace.

Thanks Mark

Cheers buddy , makes my spare time and the posting up of them worthwhile......

not bad pics from a Galaxy S3 phone either.

I needed to finish off my SAI/N112/N249 delete (just had to remove the combi valve and fit blanking plate as I'd done everything else) when I found a crack in the coolant flange/CTS housing earlier today.

Please please PLEASE don't do a guide on a G60/VR6 conversion in the next few months!!!

EDIT: nice guide too, thanks mate

Edited 6 May, 201313 yr by V8 Dave

I just fixed a pretty bad leak from the plastic housing just above the gearbox. O ring from the housing to the block was flat and crumbling.

Bowders, how long did it take your to bleed when u refilled the coolant?

Mine too ages for the thermo to open, the pipe to it was cold for ages, and in talking 30mins and a small drive. When it eventually opened it released a massive air lock. Also the fans never came on at all.

Bowders, how long did it take your to bleed when u refilled the coolant?

Mine too ages for the thermo to open, the pipe to it was cold for ages, and in talking 30mins and a small drive. When it eventually opened it released a massive air lock. Also the fans never came on at all.

I did not bleed as such, I let car warm up on idle with overflow cap off and heating fans on full and hottest temp. Did not take long at all. Checked water level a few times to make sure all was ok.

I just fixed a pretty bad leak from the plastic housing just above the gearbox. O ring from the housing to the block was flat and crumbling.

yep same as mine..

I needed to finish off my SAI/N112/N249 delete (just had to remove the combi valve and fit blanking plate as I'd done everything else) when I found a crack in the coolant flange/CTS housing earlier today.

Please please PLEASE don't do a guide on a G60/VR6 conversion in the next few months!!!

EDIT: nice guide too, thanks mate

Lol funny you mention that................

Lol funny you mention that................

Nooooooooooooo!! :'(

Edited 6 May, 201313 yr by V8 Dave

Another great guide Bowders.

When I removed the combi valve I wasn't happy with the feel of that o-ring when putting everything back together (but i didn't have a replacement to hand), so ended up removing it and carefully cleaning the very crusty o-ring! Hard coolant deposits had built up on the housing/o-ring and mating face on the head. Like you found, the o-ring was pretty flat as well. Been keeping a beady eye on mine since but I might swap it after your experience.

Bowders, how long did it take your to bleed when u refilled the coolant?

Mine too ages for the thermo to open, the pipe to it was cold for ages, and in talking 30mins and a small drive. When it eventually opened it released a massive air lock. Also the fans never came on at all.

Like Bowders said, you need to leave the reservoir cap off when refilling the system with the engine running. If you don't you'll create an airlock and the engine may overheat.

Easy mistake to make, but you'll only do it once!

Another great guide Bowders.

When I removed the combi valve I wasn't happy with the feel of that o-ring when putting everything back together (but i didn't have a replacement to hand), so ended up removing it and carefully cleaning the very crusty o-ring! Hard coolant deposits had built up on the housing/o-ring and mating face on the head. Like you found, the o-ring was pretty flat as well. Been keeping a beady eye on mine since but I might swap it after your experience.

Not only was my O-ring compressed and miss-shaped, the actual housing had the centering ring half missing that holds O-ring that i also guess helps the housing centralise in the cylinder head as the 2 bolt holes are wider than the bolts. (if that makes sense)

However the new Housing does not have a same center and seems the O-ring is now used to just compress over the cylinder head hole. Does feel a better seal on the new one and for £12 worthwhile replacing.