Hi All,

I recently bought a mk1 octavia vrs. I'm very pleased with the car, but it feels like its hesitating.

Initially, the hesitation was easily noticeable under full throttle. The coil packs have been changed and the throttle body cleaned, and after a short drive I'm not totally sure whether the issue is resolved.

Previously, there would be a noticeable drop in power through the range. This drop would come in cycles. You would hear the turbo noise increasing, then a drop of power with the turbo noise decreasing simultaneously.

After the TB had been cleaned, I couldn't FEEL any loss of power really, but the noise from the turbo still comes in the same cycles.

When under full throttle, should the turbo sound like its increasing/decreasing the amount of air it's sucking in, or should it build steadily to maximum and stay that way?

The idle is also a little erratic. It only fluctuates very slightly, im not sure if this is related.

A final question, twice today I've noticed that from a cold start, when driving the temp rises to roughly 70C, then shortly after plummets to 50. A few minutes later it picks back up quickly, reaching 90C soon after. Is this normal? Is this just the thermostat opening for the first time of the journey? After it reaches 90, I haven't seen it move in either direction.

I dont have access to VCDS unfortunately.

Thanks for reading!

Edited 8 May, 201313 yr by amusingduck

Forgot to mention, there was no diagnostic codes.

I'm not sure if VCDS will read codes that a normal reader cannot?

Seem like you have similar issues to what I had.

Boosting issue, I'd try changing the diverter valve and try driving with MAF unplugged, see if there is any difference, mine was better after reconnecting the MAF.

Temp gauge could be thermostat or coolant temp sender, temp sender is an easy cheap change.

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Well your temp sensor is shot.

Which could cause boost issues as the ecu won't know how fuel as it thinks the car is a different temp.

Change that and see what happens from there.

Is temp sender/sensor the same thing?

I'll start there, thanks for the suggestions.

If I unplug the MAF, what should I be looking for?

Is temp sender/sensor the same thing?

I'll start there, thanks for the suggestions.

If I unplug the MAF, what should I be looking for?

Any difference in how the car drives, but as above temp sender first call

I'd recommended a brand new OEM one, not an eBay one.

There is a guide on here and parts numbers on the sticky.

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Edited 8 May, 201313 yr by mluton

Oh and a new temp sender made a big difference when I got mine back.

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Is temp sender/sensor the same thing?

I'll start there, thanks for the suggestions.

If I unplug the MAF, what should I be looking for?

Yes this thing.

When this starts playing up can give hesitation issues and initial warm up problems as it can't work out the current running temp and thus ecu will get confused readings.

Sent from my Galaxy S3.

Righto, over the weekend I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor - this has solved the coolant gauge strangeness.

I also unplugged the MAF and took it for a drive. Couldn't feel any hesitation with the MAF unplugged, when plugged back in it was present again (but still only a tiny hesitation).

Does this mean the next port of call is to replace the MAF? How much are these roughly for a genuine part?

Thanks again!

GSF £130.20 free delivery and £30 trade in for your old one.

Make sure it's a BOSCH one.

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Edited 13 May, 201313 yr by mluton

Try carparts4less.co.uk, Genuine Bosch £98.40 with £36 trade in for you old one, total = £62.40 Free delivery aswell