New Fabia Greenline, Do's and Don'ts recommendations + gear change question

[treve7703]

Hi all!

So I've got my brand new Skoda Fabia II Greenline Estate car and I just wanted to hear some advice on the big do's and don'ts that a noob like me probably hasn't considered. This is my first new car and other than reading the manual and especially the 'your first 1,000 miles' section, I probably don't know some things I really should be aware of.

I want to get the most out of this car and have it last as long as possible so I want to be kind to the engine and treat her well.

I have one question already. It comes with a gear change recommendation and I was wondering whether this needs to be adhered to religiously? Are you meant to change up only when it recommends or is it fine to do so before. How about changing down? Does driving in gear 3 when it's only just started telling you to drop to 2 hurt the engine? I want to drive economically but not 'force economy' and screw the engine.

All thoughts are greatly appreciated, thanks.

[BossFox]

Don't follow the gear change indicator.

It's OK when keeping a constant speed on the flat or going downhill but does not allow for inclines or load.

You will find that if you follow it you will change to a higher gear too often/too early.

This makes the car more sluggish and uses more fuel.

When under load the engine is most efficient when the turbo is spinning.

If you keep the revs too low and it needs power, but has no turbo pressure, it dumps fuel into the engine instead....

Obviously when not under load the lower the revs the better.

[Igloo Vindaloo]

New Greenline! Nice!

I was advised not to use cruise control at first, but vary the engine speed while breaking in the engine. I used a lot of engine braking then - and still do now. Which is quite different to the way I learnt to drive.

New brakes and tyres also need to be treated with care.

Have fun! (But not too much!)

[greenstripe]

Definitely don't follow the gear change indicator as it will have you driving in too higher gear -in addition to using more fuel it's not good to labour a brand new engine. Just try and drive it normally with out worrying about fuel economy etc. until you've run it in. My engine was really 'tight' at first but loosened up nicely over the course of a few thousand miles. Most of all enjoy the car.

[BossFox]

Just try and drive it normally with out worrying about fuel economy etc. until you've run it in. My engine was really 'tight' at first but loosened up nicely over the course of a few thousand miles. Most of all enjoy the car.

Very good advice.

My mpg (real, not on the car display) went from around 60mpg to over 70mpg over the first 6k miles.

They are tight when new.

[Igloo Vindaloo]

Mine kept getting worse in the first few thousand km. And only got better when the weather warmed up and summer tyres, diesel, etc came on.

Too many variables...

[bluecar1]

yep drive it normally,

do not worry if on the odd occasion you give it a bit of welly to get away at a roundabout or junction in heavy traffic, just don't do it often

1st 500 miles try not to give it more than 1/2 -2/3 throttle, but as above if you need to, give it a bit of loud peddle but ease of as soon as safe

once over 500 miles build up to full power over next 1000 so that at 1500 miles you are driving with no more restrictions

the stop start takes a while to get used to but not long, if you are sceptical of how effective it is sit at a set of traffic lights with the display on trip 1, mpg with the stop start disabled then watch the mpg count down, then do the same when the engine stops and the mpg don't move

regen is when the DPF (particulate filter ) is getting clogged with soot and needs cleaning, the car does this automatically. if you drive at over 2000rpm for over 15-20 minute the DPF gets hot enough to burn off the soot on its own (passive regen), if you do not do this it will do an active regen by injecting the fuel late to increase the exhaust temperature and due to this raise the DPF temperature to burn off the soot, but this affects economy / MPG

active regen is noticeable by a strange rubbery smell when you stop, engine fan continues for a few minutes after you switch the engine off, stop start don't shut engine down at stop, idle speed increases to around 1100 rpm instead of 800rpm, car does not seem as smooth

all of this is normal so not a problem

I generally find I change up at about 2000rpm this mean in the next gear it is running at about 1500rpm and still got a bit of turbo boost, the gear change indicator is just that, an indicator and should not be followed rigourously as it can cause the engine to labour

enjoy the car, I have seen 89.7mpg on run back from Birmingham to kent on Wednesday, but was running at 56-60MPH for 190 mile as I wanted to see just what it could and prove whether the official figures where possible

conclusion they are on specific journeys under the right conditions but not everyday driving, but you will still be happy with the economy, I average mid 60's mpg tank on tank and struggle to get less than 50mpg (really got to try hard to do that one)

read the manual, learn how the different systems work (hill hold, stop start, cruise control) then go out and try them out

stop start is fun, many things disable it working or cause the engine to restart, push down on the brake a few times when it has stopped the engine and the system senses lack of vacuum for brake assistance and restarts the engine, turn the airflow to demist and it don't stop the engine, regen disables start stop

anything you are unsure of come back and ask and welcome to the forum

Edited 17 May, 2013 by bluecar1

[Redline Greenline ii]

Don't spend your time looking at the rolling MPG indicator rather than the road... pretty sure all us GL drivers have been guilty of this at one time or another!

Congrats, though - an excellent choice. I've got the hatch and it has to be the best car I've ever had. Even drove it up a mountain* the other day and it coped fine.

*A very big hill, at least: http://goo.gl/maps/g3YzZ - the Hardknott Pass

[bluecar1]

which way did you go through hardknot t? towards windermere is far more fun

a few places you hope the handbrake is good if you meet anything, and I recon good for hill starts as well, first time you go down its a bit a of new underwear moment in a few places where you lose sight of the road as it turns some of those hairpins good fun though

my roomster coped well fully loaded, as did my mk1 Octavia, fantastic view from top

[Redline Greenline ii]

We were heading East from Dalegarth after a trip on the Ravenglass and Eskdale railway, and decided to take the scenic route back. It certainly is an amazing view. I was giving it plenty of welly to get it up the hills and desperately hoping nothing was coming the other way. All those corners and hairpins are fantastic. Makes a nice change from my usual mix of suburban roads and dual carriageways / motorways! Hopefully the image below will come through...

Took it near the top where there's a bit of space to park up for a few minutes.

Edited 20 May, 2013 by Redline Greenline ii

[bluecar1]

fantastic view of where you have come from, did you see the outline of the old roman fort?

first time I did hardknott was in my Octavia and there was snow on ground, sure made going down through those hairpins interesting

Edited 20 May, 2013 by bluecar1

[treve7703]

Wow guys! I love this forum! Thanks for all the advice.

I didn't realise the gear change indicator wasn't good for the car. Blast. I think I've definitely been running it in too higher gear then. I'm changing to gear 4 as soon as I get to 30mph at the moment but I guess it should stay in 3. You're meant to change up to 2 pretty quickly right? If I do it straight after moving the gear stick moves easily but if I go a few lengths of the car forward, it feels heavier to move into gear 2. I've only done 400miles so I guess there is still time to change my ways!!

Do you guys change up based on revs rather than speed? So should I change from 2-3 at 2k revs, 3-4 at 2k revs and so on? I previously thought I was changing up too late if I followed the recommendation. I have to get up to about 20mph for it to suggest changing to gear 3. And it doesn't ever suggest gear 5 before 40+mph.

Briskodian! You seem to know your stuff! Thank you for explaining the regen system think. It scared the hell out of me a week or so ago when I smelt something funny and went around the car checking the tyres thinking I'd already burnt rubber.

I'm getting 60-70mpg at the moment and do hope to get that up to the 80s one day. Is driving over 60mph less fuel efficient? Even if you get a boost from a hill and can reach that speed without having to accelerate?

Many thanks guys, this is all awesome advice!

[treve7703]

Hahaha...just realised 'Briskodian' is not a username. I actually talking to you bluecar1.

I'm such a noob to this forum. lol :p

[bluecar1]

thanks trev,

just looked into how all the systems work, love technology as I am an I.T system engineer so working with computer and tech everyday and have to know how things work

the regenerative braking is interesting as well, unlike a normal car it controls the output of the alternator

it reduces the output when you accelerate and cruise (assuming battery charge level is ok) then when you lift off or brake gently it increases the output (bit like KERS on an F1 car) so in traffic / stop start it charges the battery quicker than with a normal alternator / charge setup. due to this the constant engine restarts of the engine in traffic do not affect battery charge as much as a normal car,

look in the manual and you will see all the different things that the car monitors to work out if the car is capable of stop/start

page 91 in the manual

Automatic engine shut down (stop phase)

› Stop the vehicle (where necessary, apply the handbrake).

› Take the vehicle out of gear.

› Release the clutch pedal.

Automatic renewed engine restart (start phase).

› Depress the clutch pedal.

The START-STOP system is very complex. Some of the procedures are hard to

check without servicing. The general conditions for the proper functioning of the

START-STOP system are listed in the following overview.

Conditions for the automatic engine shut down (stop phase)

› The gearshift lever is in Neutral.

› The clutch pedal is not depressed.

› The driver has fastened the seat belt.

› The driver's door is closed.

› The bonnet is closed.

› The vehicle is at a standstill.

› The factory-fitted towing device is not electrically connected to a trailer.

› The engine is at operating temperature.

› The charge state of the vehicle battery is sufficient.

› The stationary vehicle is not on a steep slope or a steep downhill section.

› The engine speed is less than 1200 1/min.

› The temperature of the vehicle battery is not too low or too high.

› There is sufficient pressure in the braking system.

› The difference between the outdoor- and the set temperature in the interior is not too great.

› The vehicle speed since the last time the engine was switched off was greater than 3 km/h.

› No cleaning of the diesel particle filter takes place » page 27.

› The front wheels are not turned excessively (the steering angle is less than 3/4 of a steering wheel revolution).

› The clutch is depressed.

› The max./min. temperature is set.

› The Defrost function for the windshield is switched on.

› A high blower stage has been selected.

› The START STOP button is pressed.

Conditions for an automatic restart without driver intervention

› The vehicle moves at a speed of more than 3 km/h.

› The difference between the outdoor- and the set temperature in the interior is too great.

› The charge state of the vehicle battery is not sufficient.

› There is insufficient pressure in the braking system.

If the driver's seat belt is removed for more than 30 seconds or the driver's door is

opened during stop mode, the engine must be started manually with the key.

dig a bit deeper and you will find all sorts of other bits like (straight cut gears in the gearbox, many parts of the engine have low friction coatings or materials used, and many more), look up info about VW bluemotion its the same system, and the brains that controls it all I think you will find is the box under the drivers seat you can see if you move the seat right forward

[treve7703]

I generally find I change up at about 2000rpm this mean in the next gear it is running at about 1500rpm and still got a bit of turbo boost, the gear change indicator is just that, an indicator and should not be followed rigourously as it can cause the engine to labour

enjoy the car, I have seen 89.7mpg on run back from Birmingham to kent on Wednesday, but was running at 56-60MPH for 190 mile as I wanted to see just what it could and prove whether the official figures where possible

I was trying this today and got a higher mpg than when I was following the gear change indicator so thanks! However, do you wait till it's about 2000rpm, even if it's gear 1 to 2? I was curious as to whether it's a different 'rule' for that change and whether it should be done asap (providing you're on a flat).

You say you were running 56-60mph, does one get worse fuel economy if you're driving at 65 or higher? How about with hills on duel carriageways. If you can use the momentum of a hill to get you up to 70 without needing much gas, isn't that more fuel economic? I'm also curious whether it's more fuel economic to keep the momentum you've gained going down hill when you next go up hill, or whether it uses a lot of fuel to keep yourself at the same speed.

I've been toying with easing off on the acceleration going up hill so that I'm using less fuel maintaining my speed and letting it slowly drop about 10mph because I'll gain that speed back on the following down hill. I haven't come to any conclusions about this yet. Any thoughts?

[philhoward]

"Free" speed going downhill is one of the hypermiling techniques, I think? I've not looked into it further as it seems to be an art in itself but it makes sense to gain momentum downhill and use part of it to get up the next one using less fuel.

[bluecar1]

because on the GLII there is virtually no engine braking you find yourself coming off the gas a lot earlier and just rolling up to junctions

even slight uphills you can coast up to junctions, you get used to doing these sort of things

[Guest]

treve, it's all about experimenting, getting to know your new car. Driving technique on these new hyper economical diesels is all important in getting the best out of it. You need to experiment for yourself, in your topography to find out what works best for you and the way you use your car. But if your car is absolutely brand new and only has a few hundred miles on the clock, DO NOT attempt to keep getting the very best mpg's you can from the engine. Not yet. In doing so you will prevent the engine from correctly running in by glazing your cylinder bores and rings, and you will never get best performance or economy if it doesn't run in correctly. So do as Greenstrip suggests and drive it fairly normally, but with due regard for the running instructions in the manual. Don't plonk it about like a diesel of old, they don't like it. Use the revs a bit, and don't be afraid to give it some beans now and then to get the engine bedded in. But only do that once it's fully warmed up with the oil nice and hot. That takes quite a few miles in a diesel. Compared to new petrol engines, it's harder to run in a diesel engine properly. They take longer in actuality because the diesel fuel itself is a lubricant constantly bathing the pistons, rings and bores with extra lube and preventing the much needed metal to metal contact needed to run the engine in. That's in direct contrast to a petrol engine where the petrol, being a solvent, does it's best to wash the oil away from the bearing surfaces and making metal to metal contact much easier and common place. So as the miles go on your diesel, don't hold back with the power (in accordance with the manual instructions). You won't hurt it, only do it good and it will loosen nicely and give good power and economy and the engine will last much longer without problems. Good luck and keep posting to let us all know how you are getting on.

[bluecar1]

I was trying this today and got a higher mpg than when I was following the gear change indicator so thanks! However, do you wait till it's about 2000rpm, even if it's gear 1 to 2? I was curious as to whether it's a different 'rule' for that change and whether it should be done asap (providing you're on a flat).

You say you were running 56-60mph, does one get worse fuel economy if you're driving at 65 or higher? How about with hills on duel carriageways. If you can use the momentum of a hill to get you up to 70 without needing much gas, isn't that more fuel economic? I'm also curious whether it's more fuel economic to keep the momentum you've gained going down hill when you next go up hill, or whether it uses a lot of fuel to keep yourself at the same speed.

I've been toying with easing off on the acceleration going up hill so that I'm using less fuel maintaining my speed and letting it slowly drop about 10mph because I'll gain that speed back on the following down hill. I haven't come to any conclusions about this yet. Any thoughts?

as estate man says, do not try get the most out of the car all the time, and as I said early on give it a bit of wheelie now and again just not all the time

now mine is run in I rarely give more than 1/2 - 2/3 throttle unless I need to get moving quick at a junction or out to overtake, you will also notice the change indicator is to a certain extent intelligent, as if you have you foot down a bit harder it don't recommend changing up until later so it does take engine load / throttle pedal position into account. 1st and 2nd gear change points are pretty much as you would normally drive as at junctions you have less choice about how fast you get the car moving, but once moving you are more in control of your speed / acceleration

you will find once you get over 65 mph the mpg starts to drop off quite rapidly due to the car having the aerodynamics of a brick, as to using speed to coast up hills or letting the speed drop off slightly, this only seems to work on very short hills

the other one I am trying to nail down is whether it is more efficient to leave the car in 5th with my foot flat down at about 1500-1800rpm or stick it in 4th at about 2500rpm with my foot not flat down, i.e. dump fuel in at low rpm or less fuel in at higher rpm

Edited 23 May, 2013 by bluecar1

[philhoward]

the other one I am trying to nail down is whether it is more efficient to leave the car in 5th with my foot flat down at about 1500-1800rpm or stick it in 4th at about 2500rpm with my foot not flat down, i.e. dump fuel in at low rpm or less fuel in at higher rpm

The instantaneous mpg readout is possibly the best tool for this one? On the flip side, I don't personally like an engine to labour. I guess this is where DSG overrules your head as it will drop a gear when you wouldn't to maintain a certain speed up a slight incline - presumably to keep the engine using the least fuel? Inclines that i wouldn't change down for (or run a higher gear), the DSG does. That's assuming its trying to follow a "use the least fuel" philosophy during normal driving!

[bluecar1]

instantaneous milage is difficult to pin this one down, I am going to try doing an average on the hill in question from speed camera at bottom to layby where mobile camera van likes to lie in wait in both 4th and 5th

gear recommendation is contradictory, if I start the hill in 5th it never recommends changing down to 4th, but if I start the hill in 4th it recommends changing up to 5th for a short section then doesn't doesn't as the hill gets steeper

seems the gear change recommendation is good for going up the gearbox but does not recommend changing down until to late (seems set on keeping you in a gear until the engine is chugging and struggling at 1200-1300rpm

[treve7703]

treve, it's all about experimenting, getting to know your new car. Driving technique on these new hyper economical diesels is all important in getting the best out of it. You need to experiment for yourself, in your topography to find out what works best for you and the way you use your car. But if your car is absolutely brand new and only has a few hundred miles on the clock, DO NOT attempt to keep getting the very best mpg's you can from the engine. Not yet. In doing so you will prevent the engine from correctly running in by glazing your cylinder bores and rings, and you will never get best performance or economy if it doesn't run in correctly. So do as Greenstrip suggests and drive it fairly normally, but with due regard for the running instructions in the manual. Don't plonk it about like a diesel of old, they don't like it. Use the revs a bit, and don't be afraid to give it some beans now and then to get the engine bedded in. But only do that once it's fully warmed up with the oil nice and hot. That takes quite a few miles in a diesel. Compared to new petrol engines, it's harder to run in a diesel engine properly. They take longer in actuality because the diesel fuel itself is a lubricant constantly bathing the pistons, rings and bores with extra lube and preventing the much needed metal to metal contact needed to run the engine in. That's in direct contrast to a petrol engine where the petrol, being a solvent, does it's best to wash the oil away from the bearing surfaces and making metal to metal contact much easier and common place. So as the miles go on your diesel, don't hold back with the power (in accordance with the manual instructions). You won't hurt it, only do it good and it will loosen nicely and give good power and economy and the engine will last much longer without problems. Good luck and keep posting to let us all know how you are getting on.

Thank you. There is some great advice in all these comments.

I took it from 680miles to 730 today so it's on its way to being run in. After the first 10 miles or so I started to be more liberal with the gas pedal and gave it some acceleration inbetween gears. When you guys say 1/2 or 2/3 throttle is this just in a burst, or something you maintain for a bit while running-in the engine? I got it up to around 3k revs before gear changing a couple of times today just to push the engine a bit more than I have been. Is this what I should be doing?

For the first 3-400 miles I just accelerated gently and changed up a gear fairly early on to keep strain off the engine (probably a bit too early on not knowing what has been told to me in this thread but there you go).

[bluecar1]

even though mine is now run in at 19k I still rarely exceed 2/3 throttle when accelerating, this means I do not use as much fuel and get better economy, the difference is I will let it rev higher than when I was running in

2/3 throttle will still rev to 3.5k, you will learn don't just plant your foot to pick up speed , slowly push it down gradually and lift of gently as you are about to change gear which will result in a smoother drive and better economy

the key is anticipation,

if you are looking to move out a lane on dual carriageway or motorway, don't sit right up the vehicle exhaust in front, drop back a bit, watch the traffic and just before the last vehicle before the gap you want start to accelerate gently so you are already picking up speed as the gap is there, so you have less of a speed difference and don't need to floor it to get into the gap

as you approach a junction or slower moving traffic ease off the gas earlier so you don't have to brake as much, but to do this you have to leave a slightly bigger gap than normal

[treve7703]

Sound advice. I hope it's running in quite well. I normally drive it very carefully and only lightly accelerate and such but I'm a gigging musician and at weekends have to take 4 people in the car plus gear so I obviously end up pushing it more. Not the best when it's running in but at least it's warmed up for 20 miles before I have to do that.

[bluecar1]

as to the 4th or 5th gear question on a hill

said hill is 12% gradient and 50mph on cruise , in 5th from speed camera to top 30.4mpg, in 4th 34.8mpg

so better to drop it down one than tried and leave it in 5th