caliper bleed seized; brake fluid change due

[jimbof]

So I took the car to get new disc / pads on the front; while checking the brake system out before fitting they told me that the caliper bleed is seized on one of the calipers, and that I will need a new caliper to sort. Yet I see the bleeds are listed as separate parts on vagcat etc. Is it really that difficult to do that it needs a new caliper?

[trundlenut]

I would try penetrating oil before rushing straight to changing the calliper.

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[Nackuk]

If the bleed nipple has been rounded I can recommend these to grip it and get it out. Mind they are dear but do the job.

http://www.idealworl...ories@lt;{8011}

[jimbof]

thanks for the tips. i guess these are all things garages can't be bothered with when they can just throw a refurb caliper at it...

[rum4mo]

It does beg the question, "when was the fluid last replaced?" and how tight was that nipple made last time? I tend to play safe and every - maybe 9 years, replace all the bleed nipples as they get corroded and as we all tend to tighten them more each time they are opened, the taper sealing section starts to get a groove/step which needs more and more tightening - together both these issues will lead to the nipples getting almost impossible to get out. Even running brake fluid down the external thread (as it will creep) and wire brushing the area before adding some more brake fluid to lubricate it a bit should make things a bit easier. Remember, it should only be the top exposed threads that will have rusted - plus the taper part being overtightened. If you shear the nipple off and drill it out, remember they are an "tricky" thread pitch to find a tap to sort out.

[TeflonTom]

You don't have to use the bleed nipple to bleed the calliper, you can just slacken off the fluid union instead.

[jimbof]

Thanks. The fluid was last changed 18 months ago by the supplying (skoda) dealer, who also replaced the front pads/discs at the same time. Though it sounds like it could have been seized then and they worked around it to avoid dumping parts into the car. I've done 45K miles since so was looking to get it done at this coming service.

[forge-garage-lincolnshire]

Hi

I use a single hex 3 / 8 drive deep socket to crack open bleed nipples first I find that stops rounding off the corners of the nipple.

As mentioned by another member soak in penetrating oil then try again. If it does not come undone you are all ready expecting a new calliper any way.

cheers Chris

[rum4mo]

Hi

I use a single hex 3 / 8 drive deep socket to crack open bleed nipples first I find that stops rounding off the corners of the nipple.

cheers Chris

I agree with that, I also tend to use "hex" sockets for really tight nuts/bolts - and have a 1/4" set + 3/8" set + 1/2" set - they do make a differance.

[trundlenut]

I tend to go for a couple of drops of penetrating oil either the evening or a couple of hours before, just as a preventative measure.

[rotodiesel]

When the car is fairly new, jam the brake pedal down with a piece of wood to prevent fluid loss. Remove each nipple and apply 2 turns of PTFE tape to the thread only. Replace and bleed the brakes.

Bleed nipples rusting solidly into iron calipers are a perennial problem - VAG recommend the application of a special assembly grease to the threads. Of course, the dealers don't do it - or even change the fluid properly. My fix works better.

rotodiesel.

[rum4mo]

Hum, I did notice "something" on the threads of the bleed nipple on the "refurbished by Pagid" rear calliper I fitted the other week. Nothing out of ten for the dust cover that Pagid supplied, the original one seems more up to the job.