Nackuk

Definitely for noise, comfort and for taking the pot holes with being destroyed when you do end up taking one.

Yep we’d all like to hear the outcome.

I think it is part of the oil level sensor, ie in the bottom of the pan.

I have coded a mk3 super battery change using vcds. Not obvious but once you’ve done it, it was simple. How did I do it I can’t remember, watched a particular YouTube video.

The coolant temp probe may have gone out of calibration. Won’t fault unless it dies.

How do you replace the stat on one of these. As you say initially looks awkward? A few steps would be good please.

1). 10K miles servicing will ensure engine is in good nick and turbo will last. 2). Look for good body work. Check rear arms are not too corroded. If they are not big issue they will just need replacing at some point. If they do change the shocks and springs at the same time. 3). Unless you need 4wd don't bother. 4). Unless you need an auto, stick to manual allow £700 for new clutch flywheel AND slave cylinder to be swapped at some point. 5). On manual car over 100K change gearbox oil. It will love you for it. 6). Odd ball tyre ware can be cured by wheel realignment. However to achieve this you may need some of the alignment bolts to be replaced.

wow. That’s great thankyou for sharing the experience as everyone with ivory will know it looks lovely but needs care to keep it clean. Liquid leather cleaner is good too. Not the conditioner, while that is good, it’s the cleaner that cleans.

As I say it was easier than it looked or how the instruction book made out but it was clear in what to do and how to do it. Hardest bit was routing it from the back seat to cabin. Trim very tight.

The magic of the sat nav is done through the canbus wires and cars ecu.

I ran the cables around the wheel arch then across the back seat and to the drivers accelerator pedal. Under there you have to take the trim off and unplug a couple off cables. You then has to insert the new cables in the plugs. Easier than it was described. And plug them back in.

Was scary to fit, but works with the sat nav screen and turns off the beepers. Easy back end of car to fit. Scary doing connector at the front but having done one the instructions were simple to follow and all worked.

Used the westfelia one. Positioned it here.

Even with the hatchback you have to move the exhaust off I remember right.

It may be best to not ignore this or you will regret it later. If caught wallet enough a good wire brush down, rust test and paint will provide many years of trouble free ownership. Good on the MOT for bringing it up to be checked up now rather than rotting. The spray in the rear underside area can cause considerable but treatable surface rust.

I mean it’s a weird design. You can have the mirrors heating constantly. But why would you want to. Some things are beyond me. I too would rather see them in with the heated rear screen.

Yep this sensor can affect lots of others. What a pain. Good to hear you’ve temporarily put the problem to bed. The sensors are not dear so maybe replace it.

So with a bit of WD40 the glow plugs unscrewed easy enough?

Phil the post about the swirl flaps. Error code P2015 "sensor for intake manifold flap position" fixed with aluminium bracket. - Skoda Superb Mk2 (2008-2015) - BRISKODA

For the 2.0tdi cr Yes it does. They aren’t likely to fall to bits though like the **** bmw designers ones do. lol. If you stand in front of the engine and have someone turn the ignition on you will hear them wirl open and closed again. The plastic gear in the motor end stop bends with time meaning they do not fully open calling a fault. You can put an adapter on but for the cost and ease of just change the unit don’t bother with the adapter. The plastic gear is a bad vag design. I have posted about it here if you look. But at least your engine won’t die from them.

If it was the crank or can sensor you’d get a code. I think the immobiliser is not recognizing the key. That will start the car for 15 seconds then turn it off