Charcol canister thingymabob.

Needs to be working of course !!!

I have. You can remove it and replace with a resistor if you want to

I was going to rob one of those at scrap yard last week as it was about the only thing left but didnt have any use for it

Bugger

Edited 1 June, 201313 yr by Volvomeg

Well you two are useless lol

Whats the deal with removing it. I've disconnected the hose from the fuel line brackety thing and gained about 6 mpg.

I also clamped the hose of the TB and my brakes have regained their mojo.

I'm puzzled as to what I have done exactly to be quite honest. Is the cannister borked or the pipes to it ??

you are meant to have them, they take out harmful vapour iirc, however you can run them without as several members have. think bowders has done it.

If you gain 6mpg....sign me up!!!

i have most of these bits from my car i am breaking, pm me if needed!

I have been getting low 20's for months so six up is about normal.

No magic involved sorry lol

bu**er!

So Rob....

As a temporary measure.

I've ripped it out and joined the hose from the TB to the hardline around to the TIP, ran like a bag of crap lol, so I clamped that line and all is good.

I take it I blank those two pipes off I.e top of TB and either at the TIP end or at the hardline on near the fuel rail and thats it ??

I've left valve plugged in for now so no EML.

I'm assuming either one of the lines is leaking somewhere, checked the ones I took off with the check valves and all looks good and valves closing when I suck/blow through them (nasty)

Or the cannister is blocked or even the clicky valve is stuck open/closed.

Either way my brakes work better and my MPG is up !!!

The line down side of inner wing comes from fuel tank and burns all fuel vapours that are produced as you drive as the fuel is splashing about, that line need to be left open and vented somewhere that won'r come into contact with anything flammable,

The other from manifold can be blanked off

Hhhmmm

Popped an incorrect flow code.

I'm going to plumb it all back in later and troubleshoot the cannister.

Why would my MPG rise by me disconnecting the line from the tank , blocked canister or stuck valve ???

Just doing some testing on the car and ran the output test for the N80 purge valve

Got a really loud hiss around the manifold area, can't seem to pin it down but it's hot under there today

The hissing continues throughout all the tests.

Is this normal ???

The first thing I always check when dealing with charcoal canister related problem is the filler cap. Do you get a load hiss when you remove it?

The vapour from the canister goes to two locations via one-way valves. One is connected at the throttle and the other goes to the ducting upstream of the turbo.

My guess is that the tube has come off or split.

No hiss to talk of as such, a little pfft maybe but thats it.

So I shouldn't be hearing the sound near the inlet manifold then ???

I'll merge this with my other thread so as you can see what I have done so far.

Thanks for taking a peek :-)

All plumbed back but I've left the hose from the tank off the 3 way block as with that connected my MPG takes a kick in the balls.

All plumbed back but I've left the hose from the tank off the 3 way block as with that connected my MPG takes a kick in the balls.

Try plugging up the pipe attached to the N80.

The actual purge valve to TB pipe you mean. Before or after the check valve ??

Try plugging up the pipe attached to the N80.

Plugged.

Am I leaving everything else in place ??

Found out what the hiss was, it's the fuel pump running fuel through the rail.

Dunno if it should be on output tests but thats what it is, disconnected fuse and the noise stopped !!!

Found out what the hiss was, it's the fuel pump running fuel through the rail.

Dunno if it should be on output tests but thats what it is, disconnected fuse and the noise stopped !!!

Ok thinking outside of the box, is it possible your fuel pump relay is knackered, and instead of failing open and therefore stopping the pump working, has it failed closed and therefore forcing your fuel pump to work all the time when the ignition is on ??

Fackin ell.

Would that cause over fuelling ?? lol ... you know where I'm going here.

How do I check ?? Multimeter

Fackin ell.

Would that cause over fuelling ?? lol ... you know where I'm going here.

How do I check ?? Multimeter

It could cause all sorts of issue's tbh, yes it could over fuel, and it could also cause the pump to fail / run weak and in turn cause it to run lean.

Easiest way to check would be lift the back seat and turn ignition on and see if you can hear the pump going all the time.

Just checked now as it happens

Not doing it then but yesterday it was priming everytime I turned the key whilst doing the output test and cycling the ignition.

Making the loud noise then !!

Can a relay be tested with a multimeter in anyway ??

It's relay 409 under the dash IIRC ??

Just checked now as it happens

Not doing it then but yesterday it was priming everytime I turned the key whilst doing the output test and cycling the ignition.

Making the loud noise then !!

Can a relay be tested with a multimeter in anyway ??

It's relay 409 under the dash IIRC ??

I'm sure you could test with a multi meter, but if yesterday it was constantly priming and today it's not, maybe it's worth replacing it anyway just incase it has an intermittant fault with it (can't be that expensive to replace can it)?

If you get 5 run an output test on the engine and see if yours does it.

If you get 5 run an output test on the engine and see if yours does it.

Will give it a try tomorrow mate.