Hello

I've mentioned it previously but I thought I'd make a thread of it with nice photos.

I was looking for light, track day alloys, preferably with some rubber on 'em to use for track work. Y

es, I did seem to contract a mild (so far) case of "Track Day Bug"... Monies start trickling away...

I found this on fleebay.

Went to pick it up from Luton at lunch time today.

This is what I brought back having left £210 in exchange.

In the boot with seats folded

Laid out on the grass

Current wheels on

New Wheels "on"

I am of two minds now:

1. Leave them white and simply refurbish in this colour as I actually like this "track day look"

2. Strip it and paint mat black

What do you think?

Now for the state of them. For that money one cannot expect perfect alloys and there is plenty of damage. To my eye it is superficial and easily repairable but since I've not done it before and do not know much about alloys refurbishing (except with some excellent advice from George) I might be completely wrong.

Not too bad

They had read border rim somebody was hell bent to repaint black and made a terrible job of it...

Then you look closer and see this (not necessarily from the wheel above):

And the biggest damage. Some bright spark fitted too large calipers...

To me all that damage seems repairable with dremel and alloy wheel resin putty - dremel in the garage putty bought.

Also, the wheels need spigots and I purchased this. They are 72mm =>57.1mm rings but I was advised that 72.6mm=>57.1mm might be needed. Anyone had those wheels on and used spigot rings?

The tyres are Autogard SA802 budget variety. A pair is well worn on one side seemingly due to bad susp geometry and other pair is almost new.

Let me know what you think

Thank you for your time

Jabo, you saw the wheels and tyres I used at Bedford, not the prettiest things in the world but they do a job on a budget, they get stuck on for the track and then stuck in the garage when done.

Just use them as is, two good ones on the rear, scrub the two bad ones off on your next track day and then keep replacing with part worns.

The problem you and sharkrider had was new tyres at bedford.

I would fit them a day or two before your next track day and go for a run to make sure they are balanced. PS they look good white.

Liking the white and black combo Jabo! As above I'm not sure I'd bother repairing them for track blasting action.

Are they light wheels? I have never associated wolfrace with anything other than chavvy halfrauds wheels in the past.

Looks good jabo

I quite like black and white.

i was tempted to do my leon wheels in white (before my turbo woes)

no need to refurb them.

consider the amount of time you are actually going to use them.

When your flat out on track is it really going to matter what they look like

Are they light wheels? I have never associated wolfrace with anything other than chavvy halfrauds wheels in the past.

I think if you do a Google search you'll find they are quite light, Jase, not sure if quite as light as 1.2s, but quite light

Does weight really matter? After all Jabo is going to sit his 14 stone in the car........

Remember the secret to enjoying a track day, IT IS A BIT OF FUN! You are not winning points nor will anybody give you a prize for being the winner/fastest.

Your wheels will do fine mate, now get booked on the October track day at Oulton Park or Blyton.

Wheel weight is unsprung mass so saving weight here is more important than saving weight over the whole car generally

Wheel weight is unsprung mass so saving weight here is more important than saving weight over the whole car generally

Every day is a learning day!! Thanks

So in theory, smaller brakes means better performance too, but I would have rather have the big stoppers.

A lighter wheel should in theory spin up from a standing start quicker than a heavier wheel, and also pick up quicker out of a slow corner etc

But, also in theory, there is a possibility that a heavier wheel will hold it's speed better than a lighter wheel (hope someone will back me up here), which means that on the How Fast day, when it's a rolling start, could a heavier wheel actually benefit you on a circuit which has lots of fast corners and very few slow corners?

Every day is a learning day!! Thanks

Ive read in places that for every 1kg of unsprung or rotational mass removed, its the equiavlent of 5kg of static weight in the car. So for instance if your BBK and alloys equate to a 5kg weight saving each side, which is quite a realistic amount, thats like removing 50kg from the car which coincidentally is like having the rear seats/tyre and tools out all of the time.

But, also in theory, there is a possibility that a heavier wheel will hold it's speed better than a lighter wheel (hope someone will back me up here), which means that on the How Fast day, when it's a rolling start, could a heavier wheel actually benefit you on a circuit which has lots of fast corners and very few slow corners?

But on the other hand a heavier wheel will have more inertia(the opposing force to acceleration/deceleration) so accelerating and decelerating will require more power and braking effort. I cant really see a benefit of heavier wheels other than they can be made stronger. Lighter wheels tend to be more susceptible to damage.

If Pro Race 1.2s are good enough for the BTCC guys, they've got to be pretty good for us

Thats all I would bother buying. OZ do plenty of lighter wheels, but you pay for that privilege big style

Thats all I would bother buying. OZ do plenty of lighter wheels, but you pay for that privilege big style

I priced up Oz Ultraleggeras in 18" for the Octavia and they were about twice the price of the 1.2s, with very little,if any, weight saving

Exactly, I have no issues paying for quality kit, but i do have issue paying for scene tax. The line has to be drawn somewhere and for me its TD1.2's all the way.

well, i've changed my wheels, I have the maxxis back on, and it feels like a different car!

With regard to weight saving, the only reason I managed to be the quickest MK ii at Bedford must have been because of the dump I had part way through the session, I managed 1.5 seconds quicker on the hot laps than in practice!!

So remember to eat your roughage

With regard to weight saving, the only reason I managed to be the quickest MK ii at Bedford must have been because of the dump I had part way through the session, I managed 1.5 seconds quicker on the hot laps than in practice!!

So remember to eat your roughage

Is that an admission that you were full of s h i t then, James?

Started looking at wheels but only curious that's all. How much lighter would the Pro Race 1.2's be compared to standard vRS alloys?

Started looking at wheels but only curious that's all. How much lighter would the Pro Race 1.2's be compared to standard vRS alloys?

Check out the Rimstock pages, Martyn, it quotes weights for different sizes.........I've no idea what standard vRS wheels weigh TBH

http://www.rimstock.co.uk/wheeldetail.php?ProRace1.2

Is that an admission that you were full of s h i t then, James?

I really can't deny it now Brimma, the speed I gained on track I must have been full of it!!

Check out the Rimstock pages, Martyn, it quotes weights for different sizes.........I've no idea what standard vRS wheels weigh TBH

http://www.rimstock.....php?ProRace1.2

Red might look quite good with a white car. I do like them and knowing it's used on race cars I wouldn't mind them. Lots of alloys look tacky.

Red might look quite good with a white car. I do like them and knowing it's used on race cars I wouldn't mind them. Lots of alloys look tacky.

I was tempted to go for the green for the Monster theme, but the price I got the anthracites for was too good to miss