Due to the increasing noise my secondary air pump is making I'm thinking it'll need replacing soon. I've heard a few people have taken theirs out of the 1.8T? The car is completely standard so other than emissions when the cars cold could you see any reason for not removing it. Do you need any modified parts in order to bypass the removed pump?

Removing it will prob put the engine warning light on or it did on mine anyway even with the resistors in place of the valves,

You need the blanking plate to go over where the sort of egr valve thing fits to on the side of the engine,

I just got the bits i removed mapped out when i got the car remapped a few months later

Fix your pump.

My mate did mine in place with a few bolts.

There's a thread on ukmk1vs if you google it .

Its so quiet I don't even notice on anymore

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/141240.aspx

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Due to the increasing noise my secondary air pump is making I'm thinking it'll need replacing soon. I've heard a few people have taken theirs out of the 1.8T? The car is completely standard so other than emissions when the cars cold could you see any reason for not removing it. Do you need any modified parts in order to bypass the removed pump?

Hi there.

There is no reason for not removing it and actually stops that stupid noise and prevents other possible leaks.

You could fix it as per the guide someone posted

I did a removal guide in the Skoda Octy Technical section found here:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/155472-howto-sai-n249-and-n112-removal/

just focus on the SAI bit,.

You will need to block your SAI combi value with a blank.

You will more than likely get a engine check cell light on as no SAI is in place, that sometimes can be fixed wiring in a resistor to fool ECU SAI is still attached(as per my guide) but mine still had light on. This will not fail emissions though.

hope this helps

You will more than likely get a engine check cell light on as no SAI is in place, that sometimes can be fixed wiring in a resistor to fool ECU SAI is still attached(as per my guide) but mine still had light on. This will not fail emissions though.

But will i believe now fail MOT with engine light on

You must run a resistor even if mapped out as some cars it will stop the fuel trim correction !!

But will i believe now fail MOT with engine light on

Do not listen to this, they will not fail a car with an engine management light on

Yes they will (if they follow the new rules)

Yes they will (if they follow the new rules)

Well can you quote the part that says this then because I cannot find it quoted?

Not quite sure if it's in place yet but theres plenty of talk about it http://www.google.co.uk/#q=warning+lights+mot&spell=1&sa=X&ei=TLjKUfXuMMW2hQfhl4HwDQ&ved=0CCgQvwUoAA&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48340889,d.ZWU&fp=84929609280a1523&biw=1280&bih=899

Not quite sure if it's in place yet but theres plenty of talk about it http://www.google.co...iw=1280&bih=899

Thanks David, but still nothing I can see about an engine management light in there:

Warning lights

As well as electronic parking brake and electronic stability control warning lights (where fitted) the MOT test will also include checks for the correct function of the following, where fitted;

• Headlight main beam warning light
  
• Electronic power steering warning light
  
• Brake fluid level warning light
  
• Seat belt pre-tensioner warning light
  

It is not a failure to have a Engine check light on , but is a failure if appropriate car's specific system warning lights are on , light Airbag etc as these are specific to MOT test rules.

My sisters car failed because her Peugeot has a system failure dash text display reading the actual presented failure (AirBag)

If you have a engine check light the MOT tester will add that it was seen to the advisory section of MOT report , but not fail it.

This is what I understand and from asking MOT station.

My secondary pump has got noisey and can see the rivits have broke. But have a long drive the next couple of days and no time to fix. Will it be ok to drive till i get back?

My secondary pump has got noisey and can see the rivits have broke. But have a long drive the next couple of days and no time to fix. Will it be ok to drive till i get back?

Well I drove mine like that for about two years, so I guessing you should be ok !!

Cheers

Due to the increasing noise my secondary air pump is making I'm thinking it'll need replacing soon. I've heard a few people have taken theirs out of the 1.8T? The car is completely standard so other than emissions when the cars cold could you see any reason for not removing it. Do you need any modified parts in order to bypass the removed pump?

Easiest way to deactivate the system is to just pull out the relay for the circuit. It's in the relay box on the bulkhead, by the battery. That safely switches it all off, but you will get a CEL after a day or so. To permanently stop the CEL coming on, you need to have the system mapped out by a tuner (I used Shark).

You can then either leave all the hardware in place, or remove it at your leisure. I've completely removed everything SAI related now. I have loose connectors left for the pump and N112 (no resistors needed), so have just tucked them away neatly. The circuit is broken by removing the relay, so there's no risk of electrical issues in case you're worried.

You'll need a blanking plate for the head, a plug for the air box outlet and a short piece of vacuum hose (to neatly bypass the N112 and keep the N249 running as it should).

The extra space in the engine bay is glorious after you've removed it all!

If you end up fixing your pump instead, I have 3 brand new rubber pump mounts if you need some...

Easiest way to deactivate the system is to just pull out the relay for the circuit. It's in the relay box on the bulkhead, by the battery. That safely switches it all off, but you will get a CEL after a day or so. To permanently stop the CEL coming on, you need to have the system mapped out by a tuner (I used Shark).

You can then either leave all the hardware in place, or remove it at your leisure. I've completely removed everything SAI related now. I have loose connectors left for the pump and N112 (no resistors needed), so have just tucked them away neatly. The circuit is broken by removing the relay, so there's no risk of electrical issues in case you're worried.

You'll need a blanking plate for the head, a plug for the air box outlet and a short piece of vacuum hose (to neatly bypass the N112 and keep the N249 running as it should).

The extra space in the engine bay is glorious after you've removed it all!

If you end up fixing your pump instead, I have 3 brand new rubber pump mounts if you need some...

May take you up on that how much you after for them?

Anyone got a picture of what i need to pull out (relay?) to stop my aircraft take off noise.

Saves removing the internals, not bothered about the CEL light.

Cheers, Matt

Under the black box by your MAF number 100 rings a bell with me

At a guess .... Because VAG didn't fit one !!

There must be some sort of exhaust gas recirculation, with or without a valve, in order to achieve economy and meet Euro emission standards - unless of course VAG have introduced significantly improved metering on the injectors and can guarentee near 100% burn of the mixture in the cylinder at first pass. It would be dead funny if they reverted to the exhaust gas circulation system they used in the late '70s and 80s i.e. pipes from the final exhaust pipe + crankcase breather leading into the air cleaner. Wasn't there an autonomous temperature flap on the air cleaner intake involved in that system ? I suppose they could then claim they'd solved the EGR problem as well as saving huge amounts of production line costs !

Reason I thought its was EGR was the rev range that the OP mentioned.

Of course, if it were carburetted it might be a intermittmently blocked butterfly by-pass drilling causing the problem over the same rev range . . . . .

Also, can't throttle hesitation be a manifestation of the Euro emissions throttle response software contained in the ECM ?

Nick

Edited 27 June, 201313 yr by Clunkclick

Well there ain't a valve on there thats for sure Nick

It has a secondry air system which a lot of people confuse for an EGR

To be honest this issue could literally be anything, the 1.8T is great when its all good, but a complete bathplug when nothing obvious is wrong believe me I know !!!

Easiest way to deactivate the system is to just pull out the relay for the circuit. It's in the relay box on the bulkhead, by the battery. That safely switches it all off, but you will get a CEL after a day or so. To permanently stop the CEL coming on, you need to have the system mapped out by a tuner (I used Shark).

You can then either leave all the hardware in place, or remove it at your leisure. I've completely removed everything SAI related now. I have loose connectors left for the pump and N112 (no resistors needed), so have just tucked them away neatly. The circuit is broken by removing the relay, so there's no risk of electrical issues in case you're worried.

You'll need a blanking plate for the head, a plug for the air box outlet and a short piece of vacuum hose (to neatly bypass the N112 and keep the N249 running as it should).

The extra space in the engine bay is glorious after you've removed it all!

If you end up fixing your pump instead, I have 3 brand new rubber pump mounts if you need some...

May take you up on that how much you after for them?

Under the black box by your MAF number 100 rings a bell with me

Will go and have a butchers now, Cheers

Edited 27 June, 201313 yr by mluton

Is there a non-return valve on this exhaust injection system ?

Presumably if oxygen is being injected into the exhaust system in order to combust unburnt fuel then the heat stress on the manifold and valves must be way greater over many cycles than an EGR system.

Nick