Hi folks,

 

I bought myself a 59 Octy VRS Diesel a few months ago from Arnold Clark.  Loving it!  Until 2 weeks or so ago, I have had no issues...

 

In the last three weeks, the DPF light has come on 3 or 4 times.  I have taken it for a blast up the motorway to regen and that has sorted the issue out each time.  However, yesterday the EML light came on (orange engine light) and the DPF light also came on - not flasing, but constant.

 

Does anyone have any idea as to what is going on? Or a potential fix?  If you know of a fix, a rough idea of the cost would be helpful. 

 

I have searched the forum and found a few threads on this, but they seem to relate mainly to the DPF light only, whereas I have two issues now.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Joe.

someone might correct me on this but doesnt those two lights on together mean the dpf is pretty much shagged and need replacing (or removing)

Been for a spin and the DPF light is off again, but the EML light is still on...

This is 99% certain to be your DPF pressure sensor failed.... not particularly expensive to fix, but get on top of it soon or your DPF will be ruined - Search this forum for 'DPF Pressure Sensor'..... and you'll find everything you need.

 

As  heads up though, a DPF-GUT and Shark stage 2 map will mean no DPF trouble ever, better fuel economy and a massive improvement in driveability and performance

^ this!

Yup! Reckon it's the sensor bout £50 from stealers, you will probably need to do regen procedure to get the lights out.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yup! Reckon it's the sensor bout £50 from stealers, you will probably need to do regen procedure to get the lights out.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

The sensor needs to be calibrated though, you can't just 'buy and fit' or it will be as useless as the dead one, and you'll have wasted the purchase price!  You need VCDS to able to this, and to you need to know what you are doing! 

you dont need to calibrate the sensor at all, no such thing. I swapped my pressure sensor over in half hour, got a mate to plug in VCDS and do a forced regen, took it for a drive with the laptop plugged in and watched the soot content drop until it was 0.2%. the part is G450 pressure sensor but make sure you get the latest one..

 

New sensor 076 906 051A

 

located near the coolant bottle, top left of the engine bay.. its behind a little silver shield thing, 1 torx bolt holding it in.. only slight pain is the rubber pipes on the bottom, quite stiff to get off with pliers.

look here for the forced regen instructions

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration

 

you need someone with VCDS though.

you dont need to calibrate the sensor at all, no such thing. I swapped my pressure sensor over in half hour, got a mate to plug in VCDS and do a forced regen, took it for a drive with the laptop plugged in and watched the soot content drop until it was 0.2%. the part is G450 pressure sensor but make sure you get the latest one..

 

New sensor 076 906 051A

 

located near the coolant bottle, top left of the engine bay.. its behind a little silver shield thing, 1 torx bolt holding it in.. only slight pain is the rubber pipes on the bottom, quite stiff to get off with pliers.

 

 

The term is 'Adapted' which is done via VCDS - if this isn't done it won't work, it's mentioned in a number of threads on here including one where a Skoda tech confirms this, The term 'calibrated' was wrong, but it's not plug and play.... it does need to be 'Adapted' via VCDS

 

Here you go, have a read through this thread.... 

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/257964-differnetial-pressure-sensor-adaption/?hl=%2Bpressure+%2Bsensor+%2Badapted

Thanks to everyone for the replies.

 

What is VCDS?  Is this something I could get and do the job myself?  If I go to the stealership, I'm assuming they will charge about £200.  Is that about right?

 

Thanks,

 

Joe.

This is 99% certain to be your DPF pressure sensor failed.... not particularly expensive to fix, but get on top of it soon or your DPF will be ruined - Search this forum for 'DPF Pressure Sensor'..... and you'll find everything you need.

 

As  heads up though, a DPF-GUT and Shark stage 2 map will mean no DPF trouble ever, better fuel economy and a massive improvement in driveability and performance

 

Thanks for the info Sko.  Are the remaps pretty reliable?  Where would I go for one?  I live in Cumbria, so any reccommendations would be welcome.  Alternatively, I can google it?

 

Would I need to inform my insurance company about the remap?

 

Cheers,

 

Joe.

Ok, been doing some digging on the forum.

 

1. Must inform insurance company.
2. Found list with VCDS owners.  Does this mean that I buy the sensor and fit it and these guys would do the 'adapting' and forced regen for a fee?
3. Shark remap comes at various price points.  Does a stage 2 remap mean that I would have to upgrade several components on the car to avoid them operating at/exceeding their limits??

Again, clarification welcome!

 

Cheers,

 

Joe.

Take it back?!

Where in Cumbria? I have VCDS in Ulverston

Be careful about the sensor. being a 59 plate (like mine) you will probably need 076 906 051B. Note it ends in B!

I got the earlier A version and it didn't work! Skoda dealer told me I needed the later one

Thanks Phil.  I'm in Penrith.  Travelling is fine by me, but my only concern is knackering the car if I drive it too much.  If I ordered the part, would you be able to help fit it and sort out the VCDS side of things?  If so, I'm sure we could come to some arrangement. 

 

I've spoken to Border Cars (Workington) and they quoted £60.48 for the part and £144.48 total to fit it.  Does that seem like a good deal to you guys?

 

Also, if I was to get the garage to fit the part... 

 

1. Should I let them examine the car or just tell them the job that I want done? 
2. I suppose what I'm asking is how confident are you guys that my DPF sensor is the issue?  Not that I am in any way doubting the wealth of knowledge on this forum!  I wouldn't have known where to start without the help offered on this thread.
3. Are they likely to adapt the part correctly?
4. I bought the car from Arnold Clark at the end of March.  Is there any point in chancing my arm with them?

The only way to be sure would be scan with VCDS, but the sensor is a very common fault. Have a look under the bonnet. This is the bit you're looking for

 

 

If it's the same as this. Made in the USA, then you can almost be positive.

 

 

03G906051A is the old part number replaced by 076906051A

 

03G906051G is the old part number replaced by 076906051B

 

Dealers sell them on ebay for £45 to £50

 

It literally takes 5 mins to swap and 5 mins with the laptop. £200 for the job seems to be the norm but it's taking the p*ss tbh.

Ok, been doing some digging on the forum.

 

1. Must inform insurance company.
2. Found list with VCDS owners.  Does this mean that I buy the sensor and fit it and these guys would do the 'adapting' and forced regen for a fee?
3. Shark remap comes at various price points.  Does a stage 2 remap mean that I would have to upgrade several components on the car to avoid them operating at/exceeding their limits??

Again, clarification welcome!

 

Cheers,

 

Joe.

 

Re the shark remaps; 

 

in my personal experience, they are smoother than maps from the likes of Revo, and others. So the car may not 'feel' as quick as you don't tend to have a power or torque spike. This is a subjective thing though, and in reality a smoother power and torque curve will make for a car that is just as fast in the real world as one with a torque spike somewhere.

 

There is much love for Shark within these forums, and for good reason. 

 

Also, I wouldn't read too much into the power and torque claims of different tuners. For example, Superchips have an 'optomistic' rolling road and claim a rolling road proved 260bhp for just a stage 1 map on an Octavia VRS TFSI petrol. All I would say is use someone reputable, there are companies springing up all over the place that can buy code from a 3rd party and claim to be a tuner! 

 

My own common rail Vrs is now running a shark Stage 2 map (following DPF-Gut) and it is significantly better than Shark stage 1 with DPF in place. I have no idea how much power it was making in stage 1, or now, but that's irrelevant as figures are only useful in the pub

 

I think to go from standard straight to Shark stg2 is about £699?  but this is a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing a DPF, includes the removal of your dpf, cut a hole in the top, remove insides, weld back up and refit. Also includes the code so that the car doesn't try and do regen's in future etc.