The other day whilst fitting a replacement fuel filler flap and DRL's I forgot I had left my sidelights on. I also had the radio on during both of these jobs..

The result was the car wouldn't start. I used my trusty old Yamaha Diversion to start it with jump leads.

When I got it fired up the engine light came on so I scanned it using my cheapy scanner it revealed five different codes which I erased. When I restarted the car the engine fault appeared cured but it came back on after 4 seconds. 

I took it to my mate who is an excellent mechanic and he used his code reader (not a cheapy, in fact almost £700) and he cleared the codes. One returned which was 18068 (P1660) which he informed me was the Coolant Fan circuit.

Since then I have checked the codes again and they are as listed below. My mate said three of them are false stating that if the 17935 (P1527) was true then the engine wouldn't run.   

What is puzzling me is the car is running fine and I am regularly achieving 42 mpg which I don't think is bad for a 1.6 FSi.

It is doing my nut in, I like things to be right and I am at a loss as to how the car can be running so well yet be showing faults.

I anyone has experienced this and cured it or has any helpful suggestions then you may just help to keep me out of one of those nice jackets that buttons up the back.

Thanks in advance and all the best to everyone on here.

 

 

DTC Codes after Fuel Flap Replacement

 

Code

Description

Possible Cause

17435   (P1027)

Activation Intake Manifold Flap for Air Stream Regulation, Short to Ground

Wiring short to earth, intake manifold air control solenoid

17833   (P1425)

EVAP Purge Valve (N80), Short to Ground

Wiring short to earth, EVAP canister purge valve

17935   (P1527)

Intake Camshaft Contr. Circuit, Bank 1 (N205), Short to Ground

Wiring short to earth, CMP actuator

18068   (P1660)

Coolant Fan Control 1, Short to Ground

Wiring short to earth, engine coolant blower motor

Edited 1 September, 201312 yr by 7omly

I am having similar issues or fault codes with my Golf, it turns out most are rogue because of low voltage, after charging the battery overnight and then rescanning all faults were cleared and re scan done, problems solved  with plenty of juice in the battery

Just either take battery out and charge it ober night or go a long journy. If that doesnt cure it thats a new battery required.

long journey wont fully charge it. You will never fully charge the battery off the alternator. 

 

Leave the battery on charge over night and see what happens then

Batteries are cheaper than having your alternator go.....so charge it....test it....if not good, just change it....

Many thanks to all who replied.

I was of the mind it would be electrical, they are the worst faults to fix.

I need the car for work for the next two days but hopefully I will get it charged up on Wednesday.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks again and all the best.

Yes, you can get lots of odd errors due to a low or dead battery. Especially on a car with anCANBUS electrical system, like the Octy2.

 

As said, I would place the battery on charge overnight, see what ampage it's pulling, then see if it's settled down after the overnight charge. Start the car up, go for a 10 min test run as a minimum, return, then clear any codes. Then it's a case of monitoring to see if any fault codes return after that.

Oh how I long for the simplicity of my old Golf Mk2.

I tested the battery voltage before I locked the car last night. It was 12.3v.... not exactly brilliant.

When I got up this morning it was reading only 12.1v. I started the engine with a test meter across the battery. It dropped to 9.7v.

I decided to bite the bullet and get a new battery. I got an Exide Excell EB712 72Ah with three years warranty for a very good price.

It was fitted three hours ago and I am quite disappointed. Not in the battery which is showing 12.7v after a 4 mile drive. It starts instantly which it didn't do with the old one. I cleared the codes and when I switched the ignition back on the engine light was on again. This Canbus malarky is evil. As Catweasel would say 'Electrickery'. I am giving my age away there. Half of you are probably smiling while the other half are wondering what I am wittering on about.

Back to the battery, I used my mates battery back up pack to preserve any ECU codes (his advice) but I am not sure it worked because when I connected the new battery it triggered the anti-theft alarm. 

Then joy of joys - the power steering warning lamp came on, first red then turning orange.The owners manual said red is total failure and orange is partial failure but the power steering was working perfectly. 

I drove into town and stopped and started the engine a few times and this has cleared itself... hopefully permanently.

My mate who is an excellent mechanic said that sometimes Canbus cars can be a bit temperemental when reconnecting batteries and that it should sort itself out in a couple of days. 

I really love my Skoda, I like the way it does everything expensive cars do for a lot less. I like the way I can laugh at badge snobs knowing they haven't got a clue what the hell they are talking about.

At the moment I don't like the way this one is winding me up.

If you think any of the advice I have been given is rubbish or you have any further views on the mental torment this car is causing please let me know.

Thanks and all the best

Edited 5 September, 201312 yr by 7omly