Had your car had a 'Breather Valve Mod' done already, before they said there was a Boost Leak,

or has it now been done.?

 

Not really odd, just a careless Technician probably.

So common.

 

Did they do the 'Software Update' as they should have at the Service, before you collected it and had a light on and heard a noise,

or

Just when it went back in to have the new pipe fitted?

Over a year ago I had one single "breather pipe" fitted and a "Software Update" since at the time I was doing not many miles, having to put too much oil in but this was when I was topping up to the top mark.

 

I had a service almost 3 weeks ago at 29000 miles, where I had told them to take out and photograph the spark plugs for me so I could decide if they needed changing. I was sent these and they look fine. My mother picked up the car in the afternoon and according to her drove back fine. Turned car on in the morning and the EML was on and I could hear what I thought was turbo whistle. Put it down to the cold but it was still there in the afternoon. A week later I had my mother take it in for me and got given a Rapid for the week. They scanned for codes but was sporadic and they changed two other pipes, added the software update and cleared the codes. They phoned to say it was fine, took it out of a test drive and light came on again. This is where they noticed the pinhole leak in the pipe. Left it with them and I collected it yesterday.

 

I've only driven it 10 miles since I picked it up but will be doing over 500 miles this week. They said after 600 miles to bring it in and they'll check my oil level to see if they can work out my usage accurately or I can keep an eye myself like I've been doing and bring it back when I have time which at the moment I have very little of. I'm not concerned about my oil usage since I roughly know how much it's using. It's nice to see that they are trying to fix it but imo pipes won't sort oil usage out.

Personally i would never remove the coils and plugs to check and then put those plugs back in,

(i clean & save them if they are good incase ever needed)

not replacing the old ones to save the price of 4 plugs,

in 10,000 miles the service schedule says they are due to change anyway.

 

But thats just me.

 

Was the Picture of all 4 plugs, because it is usually only one faulty plug,

the one that often never gets removed.

and if its not burning/breaking up, you need to look close for Tracking or cracking on it.

THAT NEEDS REALLY CLOSE LOOKING,

hopefully the technician looked for traces of tracking,

or cracking.

 

Hopefully you are all sorted now, 

so all the best.

 

These 4 plugs have 1 obviously gubbed plug.

You can have 4 that all look good, but the one plug has still been getting too hot too often.

(an issue with the 180ps Twincharger when its fuelling has been wrong.)

Personally i would never remove the coils and plugs to check and then put those plugs back in,

(i clean & save them if they are good incase ever needed)

not replacing the old ones to save the price of 4 plugs,

in 10,000 miles the service schedule says they are due to change anyway.

 

But thats just me.

 

Was the Picture of all 4 plugs, because it is usually only one faulty plug,

the one that often never gets removed.

and if its not burning/breaking up, you need to look close for cracking on it.

 

Hopefully you are all sorted now, 

so all the best.

 

All 4 plugs were identical and all look fine. I am aware they are changed at 40k so at 30k I wanted to see what they looked like. I'm hoping to sell before I get to 40k anyway and since they are fine they can stay in.

As long as £42 saved putting in new OME plugs does not cause any problems and you have a Warranty running,

'whats the worst that can happen'?

 

A set of decent £65 plugs might well of had you getting better economy and might well have paid their way.

But again thats just me.

Dealer wanted £65 plus fitting for plugs but I can change myself if it come to it. It's still in warranty and even the dealer said they are fine. If I still have it at 40k I'll change them but then it's also due brake fluid and I think coolant too. Really want to sell it before then.

Surely they would not have charged for Fitting,

They had plugs out and had to refit old ones anyway. (if they did that for free.)

So it should have been just the cost of 4 new plugs.

The Plugs RRP including VAT is £12.36 each. & they do not pay RRP,

so charging near £50 is enough.

More is pure greed.

 

Is you car only 2 years old,?

Brake fluid is at 3 years then each 2 years,

or before if you want.

 

Each 2 years/20,000 miles, Major Service is a New Pollen Filter

and Air Filter @40,000 if not before.

 

Anti Freeze can be checked for strength., 

but is not a 40,000 mile item.

My car is 3 years old September. They checked the plugs for free so I guess I'd just be charged for plugs. I was quoted more than £15 each but I could get that down if I asked nicely. The only reason I want to sell is because I'm doing so many miles now and it's expensive to run, even if I mix tanks of super with 95.

zard,  

any update from post #31 ?

Reading through this post - there seems to be several differing aspects being combined into 'one problem' ! Lets try to separate them, and give individual answers. Obviously you are free to have your own opinions in this matter.

 

1 - Slightly delayed starting - yes this is the case for the majority.

In essence, getting in and turning the key and expecting instant firing is losing sight of the fact that the fuel pump has to prime the system first.

Try turning the key part way -  and wait for the pump to prime the system first (you can hear this taking place) THEN turn the key to fire up.

 

2 - On the subject of rattles and general noises.

The word of skoda technicians (who I look upon as a group of chunk changers in the main) re the need to build up oil pressure at the very start is not without foundation in this instance.

This is known as 'drain down' in the motor industry, and has always been the case for a number of makes. This is often decided by the position of the filter I.E. hanging or inverted to a upside down position.

The characteristic noise resulting from this is a low down (crank) noise that disappears almost instantly as the oil light goes out.

The lighter 'rattly' noises are from items like cam followers or areas where steel and alloy components meet. This is akin to older engines where the tappets used to speak whilst still cold. Oil feed to cam followers is not so vigorous as the crank areas, and depends a little more on oil warmth for a full flow situation - so a little rattle is not unusual

 

3 - Can we put to bed once and for all the issue of higher revs at start up THIS IS NORMAL, and I cannot see why some consider this to be a problem. All makes of car have this set-up, and is the direct descendant of the old fashioned choke.

Personally, I see no mechanical/engineering reason to wait for the revs to die down before moving off. Just pull away without giving it welly, and all will be well.

On point 1.

from post # 60

 

Its the mk2 vRS as the subject. 1.4 TSI Twincharger, CAVE/CTHE

Open the drivers door,  pump primes,  

Get in car, put key in ignition,

no need to wait for needle sweep or anything,  turn key, & the engine should start and sit at 1,100 rpm.

Then drops to 800 rpm. (it takes less than 45 seconds if you do not drive straight off)

So that covers point 3.

Thats how they run.

The Majority, the ones running correctly.

 

(Point 2,

not an issue with the 1.4 TSI, start it and the Oil is straight up to the head and in the Filter,

these are not noisy engines.)

http://volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_359.pdf

This is the engine up to 125kw, before the 132-136kW CAVE/CTHE

 

Lumpy idle, Rough running, rough idle, etc, the subject, is where cars run fine previously, 

when new,  then start not running properly on start up,

engines rocking in some cases. Even the car rocking.

Sometimes after problems the Exhaust Emission System Warning Lights have shown,

& cars have been Serviced, or engines changed, or ECU updates have been applied.

 

eg

People had issues near 4 years ago, these were resolved by Engine Management changes,

Faulty Parts replaced in some cases, and ECU Updates,

then more reported issues, then Engine Revised & Engine Management late 2012,

These cars should not have the same issues now.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/314870-lumpy-fast-idle-following-misfire

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/309606-misfire-after-cold-start

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/211403-misfire

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/267770-vrs-misfire

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/268044-vrs-takes-a-long-time-to-start

Pump primes when you open the door? Bit weird... Unless its specifically programmed to do this as you don't want to be loading the car or in and out doing things only to repeat the pump priming feature. I guess it has an override to prevent this?

Pump primes when you open the door? Bit weird... Unless its specifically programmed to do this as you don't want to be loading the car or in and out doing things only to repeat the pump priming feature. I guess it has an override to prevent this?

They've done that for years. Our 05 polo primed when the doors opened. Must go back about 15 years that i know of.

Then if you leave it open a while, it primes again occassionally.

It is only the drivers door.

Edited 26 January, 201610 yr by fabiamk2SE