Wheel Sizes (quite technical)

[magic62]

Typschlüsselnummer is how the car is identified for the insurance.

It says what Modell, what engine, form of the Body (ie sedan or combi) and driven wheels.

 

http://www.hsn-tsn.de/skoda-octavia.html

[Geek42]

OK, found it, try looking here:

 

http://www.hsn-tsn.de/

 

So taking the 1.8TSI as an example:

CJSA = 1.8TSI engine (referring just to the engine)

ANE = 1.8TSI Hatch (referring to the whole vehicle configuration)

ANJ = 1.8TSI Estate

ANP = 1.8TSI Estate 4x4

 

You'll notice on the type approval number that ends 00/01 that only the hatchbacks are listed, because these are the early 2013 models. For type approval numbers end 06/07 there is a much wider selection of bodies / drive configurations to go with each engine.

[Black_Sheep]

Thanks to The Plumber

Just so that you are aware there are 10 pages of Octavia 5E wheel data! The first column on the left is the most important as this is the displacement / power in kW code - page 9 on TP's link gives the corresponding code for you vehicle ie. TDI VRS is 2,0/135 which equates to CUPA and CUNA on p.207.

If you are not sure these codes are on the 4th row of the car data sticker in the service book / boot floor.

Edited 3 September, 2014 by Black_Sheep

[Geek42]

Typschlüsselnummer is how the car is identified for the insurance.

It says what Modell, what engine, form of the Body (ie sedan or combi) and driven wheels.

 

http://www.hsn-tsn.de/skoda-octavia.html

 

Damn it! Just too late! 

[multiskoda]

Just so that you are aware there are 10 pages of Octavia 5E wheel data! The first column on the left is the most important as this is the displacement / power in kW code - page 9 on TP's link gives the corresponding code for you vehicle ie. TDI VRS is 2,0/135 which equates to CUPA and CUNA on p.207.

If you are not sure these codes are on the 4th row of the car data sticker in the service book / boot floor.

Crikey - so there are. I saw the first page of results and it married up exactly with information I found elsewhere.

There are some odd exceptions to offset and speed ratings on the other pages so I'll do a bit more digging.

Overall I think what this tells me is that finding aftermarket alloys for the o3 is bloody hard. Offsets and wheel sizes are pretty uncommon from what I can tell.

[Black_Sheep]

Crikey - so there are. I saw the first page of results and it married up exactly with information I found elsewhere.

There are some odd exceptions to offset and speed ratings on the other pages so I'll do a bit more digging.

Overall I think what this tells me is that finding aftermarket alloys for the o3 is bloody hard. Offsets and wheel sizes are pretty uncommon from what I can tell.

It is not as bad as it looks. These are the wheels that can be fitted by Skoda without having to retest for type approval. In Germany in order to be TUV compliant (roadworthy) the aftermarket alloys are sold with a TUV certificate which states that they are ok for your car.

As a rule of thumb + or - 5 mm on offset is ok if you are using the same width wheel (if using a different width then use an offset calculator to check this). You can go larger than this. My winters are ET40 with 7.5J which equates to -11mm offset eg. 11mm further from the shock absorber, but 11mm closer to the arch - all this means is that I can't use conventional snow chains.

[multiskoda]

It is not as bad as it looks. These are the wheels that can be fitted by Skoda without having to retest for type approval. In Germany in order to be TUV compliant (roadworthy) the aftermarket alloys are sold with a TUV certificate which states that they are ok for your car.

As a rule of thumb + or - 5 mm on offset is ok if you are using the same width wheel (if using a different width then use an offset calculator to check this). You can go larger than this. My winters are ET40 with 7.5J which equates to -11mm offset eg. 11mm further from the shock absorber, but 11mm closer to the arch - all this means is that I can't use conventional snow chains.

Thanks. I know I can play with offsets and widths a bit and still be safe. I guess I'm trying to find a solution that is insurance friendly.

https://www.abi.org.uk/~/media/Files/Documents/Publications/Public/Migrated/Motor/ABI%20guide%20to%20winter%20tyres%20The%20motor%20insurance%20commitment.ashx

Key thing there is that the wheels and tyres can't deviate from the manufacturers standard specification, though it's not clear (for instance) if I can use a 16" wheel that is the same offset and width and tyre size as a manufacturer approved 17" wheel.

For instance, golf mk6 alloys should fit fine (7jx16", et 45), but that's not in the list.

[dieselV6]

A way to avoid the whole debate is to get a set of decent all-weather tyres instead of winter tyres, Goodyear All Seasons or Vredestein Quatrac Lite (or Bridgestone A001 but these are noisier/higher rolling resistance)  are all perfect for UK winter (and most of Europe's winter), work well enough in snow/ice/slush, behave well in the dry, are quiet and cost similar to summer tyres.

 

I have been using winter tyres for the last 12 years, but frankly with the quality of all weather tyres currently on offer, and the noise/rolling resistance issues mostly resolved in the brands/models I quoted, it makes no sense to use summer/winter sets anymore, unless you need snow tyres (but these are different to UK winter tyres). This Saturday, I'm putting full set of Quatrac Lite tyres on the Roomster. The Superb's winter wheel set goes on in October and then stays until it is worn out, after that I'll use Goodyear 4 Seasons tyres on the Superb.

Edited 4 September, 2014 by dieselV6

[Geek42]

Interesting comment about the all season tyres. To be honest I had reached the conclusion that running two sets doesn't add any cost because you can only wear out one set at a time, so financially the only hit is the extra set of rims. How significant that is depends on how long you keep the car I guess.

 

I shall check out the latest German/Swedish tyre test reports before making a decision for my Octy, but all seasons could be an option.

[dieselV6]

You still need to store the unused tyre set somewhere, and steel wheels rust so unless you have a cheap supply you need to factor in the cost of replacements (I repaint every 4 years or so). But my main reason for going to all season tyres is that I'd rather have 5% less performance in winter/summer than run 8-10 year old tyres on the car. My winter mileages are not what they used to be, and as a result my current winter tyres are 7-8 years old. All-weathers will wear out every 2-4 years on account of being used all year round, just make sure you choose known and well tested brand/model with "mountain and snowflake" symbol.

 

The tyres I mentioned earlier consistently score very high in German tests, and also had scores consistent with their EU labelling (there were one or 2 tyres that e.g. miraculously had demonstrated good wet braking and quiet operation while the label said "E" for wet braking and 73dB for noise).

 

You might also want to look at other tyre providers, not just mytyres. Mytyres used to be the best, but now there is also oponeo and tyreleader and both are very good. I used oponeo for Vredesteins, though I used to order from mytyres many times earlier.

Edited 4 September, 2014 by dieselV6

[RNPhoto]

Interesting comment about the all season tyres. To be honest I had reached the conclusion that running two sets doesn't add any cost because you can only wear out one set at a time, so financially the only hit is the extra set of rims. How significant that is depends on how long you keep the car I guess.

 

I shall check out the latest German/Swedish tyre test reports before making a decision for my Octy, but all seasons could be an option.

 

It also depends on your mileage. You're not supposed to drive on the same set of rubber for more than 5 seasons. After that the properties of the rubber changes too much.

I just barely wear down all the tyres, but then I only do 8000-12000 miles per year.

 

That said, I'm a strong opponent of all seasons tyres. I've been stuck behind folks with those on once. And when snow finally does show, they tend to overcompensate by a LOT, meaning going anywhere takes about twice the time it needed to. You may only see snow a couple of weeks per year, but its well worth the small expense difference IMO. Both for your own sake and for the rest of us.

[dieselV6]

Sounds like the problem were the people, not the tyres. Goodyear 4 seasons actually display similar winter performance to good winter ice tyres (as opposed to snow ones). And funnily enough, dry braking distances are also comparable to summer tyres. There's a side to side winter and summer comparison on German websites, might be ADAC? Don't remember, looked at it 3 months ago.

 

One other thing, Nokian WRs were for many years sold as winter tyres, also in the UK, where in fact they were more all weather than winter, i.e. slightly harder compound to allow for high temp use. And they were excellent on ice as well as in moderate depth snow, I used them on the Octavia when the UK even had a couple of hard winters (so a while ago).

[fabdavrav]

Just because a wheel isn't TUV approved doesn't mean it isn't good for use in the UK.

 

Allot of wheels for sale in the UK are not TUV approved as not sold in Germany..................In fact some of the best alloys in the world are made in UK & not TUV approved!

 

I have a set of Team Dynamics Pro Race 3 five spoke, heat treated alloys (designed for race/rally) which can take a 715kg load! For my next car (Golf mk7 estate) I'm getting one set of the Pro Race 3 for winter & one set of their Pro Race 1.2 for summer! In fact they rebrand the 1.2 for VW Racing!

 

Also weight has to be considered...........the new alloys I am getting are the same rim & diameter yet are 1.5 to 1.9kg lighter per alloy than the OEM!!!......This greatly reduces the unsprung weight!

[Black_Sheep]

Just because a wheel isn't TUV approved doesn't mean it isn't good for use in the UK.

 

Allot of wheels for sale in the UK are not TUV approved as not sold in Germany..................In fact some of the best alloys in the world are made in UK & not TUV approved!

 

I have a set of Team Dynamics Pro Race 3 five spoke, heat treated alloys (designed for race/rally) which can take a 715kg load! For my next car (Golf mk7 estate) I'm getting one set of the Pro Race 3 for winter & one set of their Pro Race 1.2 for summer! In fact they rebrand the 1.2 for VW Racing!

 

Also weight has to be considered...........the new alloys I am getting are the same rim & diameter yet are 1.5 to 1.9kg lighter per alloy than the OEM!!!......This greatly reduces the unsprung weight!

My point was that sizes other than those used for type approval can be fitted - not that the wheels must be TUV approved. The OP and subsequent posts have asked about sizes, offsets etc. Whilst your point about weight is a valid one, engineering principles dictate that weight savings are a trade off against other characteristics - although you can heat treat to improve some characteristics by altering the molecular structure of the material it will just fail by a different means.

[fabdavrav]

 engineering principles dictate that weight savings are a trade off against other characteristics - although you can heat treat to improve some characteristics by altering the molecular structure of the material it will just fail by a different means.

 

Not true...............info.........

 

Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2, 17” x 7”, 7.8kgs weight with a 625kgs max load per alloy.

                                Pro Race 3, 17” x 7”, 8.2kgs weight with a 710kgs max load per alloy.

 

OEM tyres on most MQB platform cars are 91 load = 615kgs

92 load = 630kgs

94 load = 670kgs

 

On my (ordered MK7 Golf estate) the OEM alloys weigh 9.7kgs OEM tyre is a 91 load (615kgs)

 

Both of those alloys (Team Dynamics) can cope with more load than the standard fit OEM tyre for the car, and can reduce the unsprung weight! Also those alloys are extensively used in race & rally & any "weakness" has been ironed out! In fact the TD PR1.2 is rebranded for VW Racing & is sold as TUV approved because VW paid for it to be submitted for a TUV test & it passed. Heat treating can usually double the strength of a metal!

[Black_Sheep]

Not true...............info.........

Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2, 17” x 7”, 7.8kgs weight with a 625kgs max load per alloy.

Pro Race 3, 17” x 7”, 8.2kgs weight with a 710kgs max load per alloy.

OEM tyres on most MQB platform cars are 91 load = 615kgs

92 load = 630kgs

94 load = 670kgs

On my (ordered MK7 Golf estate) the OEM alloys weigh 9.7kgs OEM tyre is a 91 load (615kgs)

Both of those alloys (Team Dynamics) can cope with more load than the standard fit OEM tyre for the car, and can reduce the unsprung weight! Also those alloys are extensively used in race & rally & any "weakness" has been ironed out! In fact the TD PR1.2 is rebranded for VW Racing & is sold as TUV approved because VW paid for it to be submitted for a TUV test & it passed. Heat treating can usually double the strength of a metal!

You are not comparing like with like figures - you are comparing the load rating of the OEM tyres versus load rating of the TD alloys - any idea what the load rating is for the OEM alloys? All alloy wheels are heat treated - even the OEM ones - it is how they achieve the ductility of the material. Just because a wheel is used for racing doesn't make it bullet proof - the performance advantages you have stated versus durability / endurance (not too essential on a race car) are why they are chosen.

Ask some of the Mk2 limited edition owners how they rate the TD alloys fitted as standard to their cars? I assume that these wheels would have exceeded the load limit of the tyres too.

Edited 7 September, 2014 by Black_Sheep

[fabdavrav]

You are not comparing like with like figures - you are comparing the load rating of the OEM tyres versus load rating of the TD alloys - any idea what the load rating is for the OEM alloys? All alloy wheels are heat treated - even the OEM ones - it is how they achieve the ductility of the material. Just because a wheel is used for racing doesn't make it bullet proof - the performance advantages you have stated versus durability / endurance (not too essential on a race car) are why they are chosen.

Ask some of the Mk2 limited edition owners how they rate the TD alloys fitted as standard to their cars? I assume that these wheels would have exceeded the load limit of the tyres too.

 

TD admit that their Pro-race series are fully heat treated....................all their other ones are not...............same goes for a lot of other manufactures which is why the wheels weight more because they just use more alloy instead of spending more on fully heat treating.................cost cutting I'm afraid.............

 

As for load rating..............what's the point of having an alloy that is x times stronger than the max load rating of the tyre recommended for the car.......which of course is x times stronger than the max axle weight of the car.............???????

 

There is no point...........get rid of the weight & improve the suspension & steering response!

 

P.S. light weight doesn't mean weak.............that is down to bad design & not stiffening where required............also rally wheels go through more harder driving conditions in terms of bumps, vibrations, heat, speed, etc than a road wheel will ever go through!!!.............

[fabdavrav]

.

Ask some of the Mk2 limited edition owners how they rate the TD alloys fitted as standard to their cars? I assume that these wheels would have exceeded the load limit of the tyres too.

 

Difference between those TD alloys is they are not the Pro Race series so a "cheaper" made alloy..................quote from one post in MKII section on the LE wheel problems.

 

 "The Ltd Edition actually wears a private label set of Team Dynamics Monza and I would expect the Imolas to be about the same in terms of quality. I think, for the price, they are gravity cast whereas the Pro Race are low pressure cast which gives them some extra strength without compromising on weight. "

 

 There are quite a few people on this forum & the Golf forums who have been running TD Pro Race alloys very successfully for several years with NO problems in the big 17" & 18" sizes........... 

[ni9eofe7en]

You still need to store the unused tyre set somewhere, and steel wheels rust so unless you have a cheap supply you need to factor in the cost of replacements (I repaint every 4 years or so). But my main reason for going to all season tyres is that I'd rather have 5% less performance in winter/summer than run 8-10 year old tyres on the car. My winter mileages are not what they used to be, and as a result my current winter tyres are 7-8 years old. All-weathers will wear out every 2-4 years on account of being used all year round, just make sure you choose known and well tested brand/model with "mountain and snowflake" symbol.

 

The tyres I mentioned earlier consistently score very high in German tests, and also had scores consistent with their EU labelling (there were one or 2 tyres that e.g. miraculously had demonstrated good wet braking and quiet operation while the label said "E" for wet braking and 73dB for noise).

 

You might also want to look at other tyre providers, not just mytyres. Mytyres used to be the best, but now there is also oponeo and tyreleader and both are very good. I used oponeo for Vredesteins, though I used to order from mytyres many times earlier.

 

Hi,

 

Does anyone know if when you order tyre and rim together whether they are prefiited and balanced, or do you have to go to your local tyre fitter to have this done, Tyreleader was the best value but I can not confirm whether the item is supplied complete. Thanks in advance.

[SCH]

Hi,

 

Does anyone know if when you order tyre and rim together whether they are prefiited and balanced, or do you have to go to your local tyre fitter to have this done, Tyreleader was the best value but I can not confirm whether the item is supplied complete. Thanks in advance.

 

I just received tyres and wheels from Tyreleader and the tyres were not fitted (it does state this somewhere on their website I think).  In fact in my case I received 3 separate deliveries on different days even though everything was ordered together.  I simply had everything delivered to a local tyre fitter as offered on their website, and the tyres were then fitted upon delivery. Good service and value so I couldn't grumble :-)

[ni9eofe7en]

I just received tyres and wheels from Tyreleader and the tyres were not fitted (it does state this somewhere on their website I think).  In fact in my case I received 3 separate deliveries on different days even though everything was ordered together.  I simply had everything delivered to a local tyre fitter as offered on their website, and the tyres were then fitted upon delivery. Good service and value so I couldn't grumble :-)

Thanks,

 

What did they charge for fitting?

[brad1.8T]

Crikey - so there are. I saw the first page of results and it married up exactly with information I found elsewhere.

There are some odd exceptions to offset and speed ratings on the other pages so I'll do a bit more digging.

Overall I think what this tells me is that finding aftermarket alloys for the o3 is bloody hard. Offsets and wheel sizes are pretty uncommon from what I can tell.

Maybe I've missed something but the wheel sizes / offsets on a Mk3 are near enough the same as a Mk2.  there should be no issue in finding aftermarket alloys... or have you started discussing a different vehicle?

[SCH]

Thanks,

 

What did they charge for fitting?

 £11 per wheel.

On the tyreleader website you can add the tyres to your basket, indicate your location and be presented with tyre fitters local to you for delivery/fitting (inc. costs) 

[GTR27]

Seeing how this seems to be the thread to ask it.....

 

So if my octavia has Alaris rims (which are 7.5" ET51) and has 225/40/18 tyres on it right now.

 

To make it look a bit fatter, i'm looking at a set of VMR V710's - which only come in 8.5" or 9.5" widths, but a fairly large range of offsets.

 

In Australia, 235/40/18's are a much more common size than 225/40/18s (and lots cheaper for same brand/model of tyre). The additional size isnt an issue according to calculators (1.3%) and will help to make the speedo more accurate as stock they are slow (i.e. 100kph on speedo is likely 94kph actual).

 

So my question is, will 8.5" rims fit ok on the front? I know on vRS's it seems to be ok, but wondering on std models. I wouldnt replace them until the tyres from stock rims are worn, and would go wheel and tyres at the same time, but a set of gloss black VMR's (on my candy white car) in 8.5" with appropriate ET (i'm thinking 35 on back, and 45 on front - so the rear fills the guards more, and the front is a bit "safer" from a clearance perspective)

 

Prob prefer 18's as they are big enough, and it might give me some more clearance to lower the car a little at the same time. (not "slammed" just lowered appropriately)

 

So any advice?

[TheOctaviator]

Hello, Briskodaworld.

I bought my first Skoda, a vRS TDI DSG, a couple of weeks ago. I've been using winter wheels and tyres for 13 years now and wouldn't be without them, but Skoda UK were no help whatsoever in sourcing a set of compatible wheels and  tyres, the line being that they tried selling them a year or two ago and there wasn't much demand. The vRS seems to cause particular problems, because you can't go below 17" rims.

Buried away in another forum on this topic, someone had posted a  link to www.tyreleader.co.uk  and they have a very helpful wheel configurator, which led me to buy a set of Rial Milano wheels, 7Jx17. Michelin's site then matched my wheels with a recommended set of Alpin 5s (205/50 R17 93H).My local ATS Euromaster did a price match on a set of Michelin Alpin 5s, so they cost the same fitted as they would have done to buy from tyreleader and then find a local fitter. Very happy!

Unfortunately, I can't find out what the recommended pressures should be. Michelin advise that pressures are car, not tyre, specific, so the pressures are those shown on the filler flap, except, of course, that these don't cover the 205/50 size. I'm still hoping to shame Skoda UK's technical section into getting off their bottoms and  providing some technical advice, but I'm not very impressed so far. Are they always disinterested, or have I been unlucky?

Hats off to you Briskodians, though. This site has been very useful, even though it takes a bit of digging around sometimes to find what you are looking for - I'm hoping I get better at it with practice.  

 

UPDATED 12/12/14: Skoda UK have now confirmed that the recommended tyre pressures for 205/50 R17 93H tyres are 36F36Rpsi  normal load and 38F46Rpsi full load (thank you Skoda). Thanks to all of you who took time to post suggestions.