I'm after advice regarding my vRS SE clutch symptoms.

 

A couple of weeks ago the clutch suddenly seemed close to the floor when changing gear, after reading the forum I thought I'd try bleeding 1st.

My mechanic bled the clutch (not reverse bleed) and the pedal was fine, for a few days. But it has gradually gone worse. Today the clutch pedal has hardly any effect at all. Pedal right to the floor, I'm surprised I got to work.

Pumping the pedal helps but it's hard to engage a gear.

So, is the problem likely to be -

 

1) Air in the system, the car has done 89,000 miles mostly motorway and the fluid hasn't been changed for a number of years.

 

2) Master cylinder

 

3) The dreaded option, slave cylinder.

 

I know from symptoms it's hard to diagnose a fault, but there's a lot of experience on here so I'm giving it a try.

 

Pumping the pedal making it harder usually indicates a need for bleeding.

 

That said, if the fluid is several years old then its boiling point could have dropped, so is the pedal worse when the engine and/or brakes are hot? If so, then it's definitely a fluid change needed and not just bleeding.

 

As to the slave cylinder, there's another test you can try. Stop on flat ground. Select 1st and sit with your foot on the clutch. If the car moves off inside 5 minutes then you need a new slave.

Are you losing fluid?

Pumping the pedal making it harder usually indicates a need for bleeding.

 

That said, if the fluid is several years old then its boiling point could have dropped, so is the pedal worse when the engine and/or brakes are hot? If so, then it's definitely a fluid change needed and not just bleeding.

 

As to the slave cylinder, there's another test you can try. Stop on flat ground. Select 1st and sit with your foot on the clutch. If the car moves off inside 5 minutes then you need a new slave.

The symptom is there hot or cold. The level hasn't dropped by any significant amount. Difficult to read the level to be honest.

Thanks for the tip. I'm dropping the car off at my mechanics tonight, he's going to reverse bleed the system then see how it is after that.

You should follow the correct procedure - see http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/258616-biting-point-changes-after-clutch-change/#entry3042970

I've got the same problem and mine is the slave cylinder unfortunately, luckily (unluckily) the DMF needs changing as well so I'll do it at the same time.

You should follow the correct procedure - see http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/258616-biting-point-changes-after-clutch-change/#entry3042970

Thanks. Just to clarify, I assume the 20 psi max is the maximum for the Eezibleed and not the car.

 

 

"You need to power bleed the clutch at about 2bar(30psi). 

The absolute minimum pressure needed to bleed air out of the clutch system is 1.5bar(23psi). I mention this lower pressure only because owners have successfully bled the clutch with a Gunson Eezibleed at 23psi (that's above the 20psi max pressure - you do it at your own risk).

Connect the power bleeder to the fluid reservoir and pressurize.

Bleed at least 100ml from the slave.

Close the bleeder and vigorously pump the clutch pedal at least 10 times (at least 20 if you are down at 1.5bar)

Bleed another 50ml from the slave.

Close the bleeder and pump the clutch pedal again.

Disconnect the power bleeder.

If you're just changing the fluid you may be able to use lower pressures but you won't drive air bubbles out."

Edited 26 September, 201312 yr by vRS G60

I've just tried to bleed the slave cylinder with a view to helping me get home. The fluid did look a bit milky to me.

Edited 26 September, 201312 yr by vRS G60

Problem sorted, new clutch slave cylinder.