Help with linked DTCs

[LB123]

At least I think they are linked. Apart from my two fabias I have 'treated myself'? to a non starting Polo classic 1.9 TDI, (295 quid so rude not to). AGR engine. It will run noisily on easy start sprayed into the air intake so engine is probably OK.

VCDS shows

5 Faults Found:
01117 - Generator Terminal DF Load Signal
            27-00 - Implausible Signal
17970 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
            P1562 - 35-10 - Upper Limit Reached - Intermittent
17552 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
            P1144 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Ground
17969 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
            P1561 - 35-10 - Control Deviation - Intermittent
17762 - Modulating Piston Movement Sensor (G149)
            P1354 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent

No other faults registered on full autoscan.

First may be a red herring and it needs the MAF checking/replacing but I don't think that would stop it. 17970, 17969 and 17762 I would guess all point to the injection pump yet fuel can be seen flowing through the clear feed pipe to the pump and back out. Stuck a new filter on today without any change.

I'm also guessing that the modulating piston movement sensor is not a sort of crank position sensor but a component of the pump.

Is this rightish or am I barking up the wrong tree.(Lemon?)

Nigel

[towcestervag]

check the wiring plug at the pump as had some break the wiring

the sensors are in/on the pump

1 is at the tail end of the pump

2 is at the top

they need to be working to start and run engine

[LB123]

Thanks for the information. I don't know if the sensors are replaceable. I suspect not. I have been over the loom and connectors in the front of the engine bay and under the battery and it seems in good condition. I will check the pump loom carefully in the morning and try a start-up with a fully charged battery but don't have a lot of hope.

I lament the days long gone when the engine loom was four wires, 1 each to dizzy, oil pressure sender, alternator and temperature gauge. Not a computer in sight.

 

Nigel

[Quarry Bodger]

I might be being a bit thick here, so please excuse me if I am. Does a polo still use relay 109 like the mk1 Octavia with the AGR engine. When that packs up it stops the engine from running.

Sent from my Nexus 7

[LB123]

Yes. Has six relays on the panel.  Numbered 19, 100, 103, 109, 404, 405.

Instrument panel goes through it's usual when turning the ignition on. ABS, Glow Plugs, airbags, oil, battery lights etc for a few secs and then all off apart from battery light. Cranks fine but still no start. I think that confirms 109 relay is good.

Don't know what the other relays do.

 

Nigel

[Quarry Bodger]

My old Octavia with the AGR engine did all that, but wouldn't fire up until I changed the relay. Check to see if you have any voltage to the fuel shut off solenoid on top of the injector pump with the ignition turned on but not cranking the engine. If there is no voltage, it will never start. It is possible to open the relay and activate its workings by hand just as a final check. But not recommended.

Sent from my Nexus 7

[LB123]

12.5 v at the fuel shutoff valve when I switch on. Lasts for about 8 seconds, then I hear a relay click off. Likewise 11+ at terminals 5 and 10 on the fuel pump plug, increasing to 12.5 when a relay clicks.

Buying a secondhand fuel pump which I was assured was good hasn't helped. Beginning to think I should scrap it. Currently owes me £400.

 

Nigel

[Quarry Bodger]

If things are as desperate as scrapping it then before you do, just try running a fused wire direct from battery positive terminal straight to the shut off solenoid, then see if it will start. Honestly, once I had done that, mine started every time, until I replaced relay 109. If that fails to work then I am afraid I am out of ideas. Sorry.

Sent from my Nexus 7

[LB123]

Been refitting the new fuel pump, Timed up the cam, crank and pump accurately this afternoon and vacuumed fuel through the pump this afternoon. Now run out of time. Will bleed the injector pipes and add a flying pos lead to the cutoff valve tomorrow just to be sure and try again. There's a number of things I could try but they are all guesses. Like crank sensor, new 109 but is that trickling good money after bad?

I hate to admit defeat but I'm close. Breaking it should recoup my money as a last resort.

 

Nigel

Edited 1 December, 2013 by LB123

[LB123]

Latest on this is the engine ran for the first time (for me) today. Sadly I don't have a clue what fixed it.

New relays for fuel shut-off control unit and terminal 30. Replaced one blown brake light bulb. Repaired clutch pedal switch and brake pedal switch, both of which were reporting pedals pressed when they were not. Carefully timed up the cam/pump belt. Checked the V.E. pump low pressure regulating valve and found it had come part open so freed off the piston and re-assembled it. Fixed the not working electric sunroof. Vacuumed fuel through the pump and bled the pipes to the injectors.

Started it about 2 hours ago and it runs OK but there is a stream of bubbles in the diesel feed line to the pump and the engine coughs every now and again, probably when there are more bubbles than fuel in the pump. No air leaks found around the filter connections so it must be at the tank or in the long pipe run from tank to filter. Shouldn't be too hard to sort.

Still a long way to go cleaning up the car interior and checking out the running gear but at least I now know the car's a goer and it's worth doing.

VCDS now reporting no faults. About time!

 

Nigel

[mannyo]

How long has that fuel been in the tank, could just be a mix of water and diesel in the fuel lines. 

[LB123]

Fuel's been in there for 5 months. Not run for that time and been stood outside for the first four months of that. Garaged for last 6 weeks but never a runner for me till now. Did fit a new filter 6 weeks ago which should trap water. I think it's air. Tank would have to have about 30% water for the amount that's coming through.

 

Nigel

Edited 11 January, 2014 by LB123