Scales are a machines used for determning the weight or mass of an object.

 

In car usage, they are most often used for determining the poise and weight distribution of a a vehicle.  In many cases they are used to facilitate the altering of the cars' dynamics quickly determining the precise weight of the car and each of it's corners,

 

If your wheel sits to the right, but pulls to the left, without wieghing the 4 points, I would hazard a guess that your front nearside shock is maladjusted (if it's adjustable) or plain knackered.

 

If the damper is popped you will get a wallow which will tend for that corner of the car to dip and drag.  If the spring is knackered you will get more weight over that corner of the car producing similar results.  If the spring preload is adjustable and is too loose you will have better handling than above failure situations, but if bad enough you will drag to the left and point to the right.

 

Any case they are all dangerous and will all hurt your tyres.

 

Worth having somebody have a look at - a proper geo place should have, of course - but if they are only doing toe & camber I doubt it - they would have mentioned it anyways.  ATS do suspension too though, don't they ?

 

A few pistonheaders have said good things about: http://www.justcarclinics.co.uk/ in Leeds may be worth you calling around and explaining the symtoms.  IMHO It's either suspension or chasis mate, I hope it's the former.

Edited 16 November, 201312 yr by zacherynuk

Sorry to bring Ed China back in to this topic but as zacherynuk says scales are very useful, I watched him adjust the TVR (or was it the Lotus) adjustable suspension this way.

 

Scales are a machines used for determning the weight or mass of an object.

In car usage, they are most often used for determining the poise and weight distribution of a a vehicle. In many cases they are used to facilitate the altering of the cars' dynamics quickly determining the precise weight of the car and each of it's corners,

If your wheel sits to the right, but pulls to the left, without wieghing the 4 points, I would hazard a guess that your front nearside shock is maladjusted (if it's adjustable) or plain knackered.

If the damper is popped you will get a wallow which will tend for that corner of the car to dip and drag. If the spring is knackered you will get more weight over that corner of the car producing similar results. If the spring preload is adjustable and is too loose you will have better handling than above failure situations, but if bad enough you will drag to the left and point to the right.

Any case they are all dangerous and will all hurt your tyres.

Worth having somebody have a look at - a proper geo place should have, of course - but if they are only doing toe & camber I doubt it - they would have mentioned it anyways. ATS do suspension too though, don't they ?

A few pistonheaders have said good things about: http://www.justcarclinics.co.uk/ in Leeds may be worth you calling around and explaining the symtoms. IMHO It's either suspension or chasis mate, I hope it's the former.

I've a feeling it's the alignment or more likely the steering wheel that was maybe not centered properly. Even if I drive down the road at 10mph you can see the wheel is slightly out. Maybe I'm too picky but it's starting to get expensive :(

Car drove perfectly straight before I broke an original spring and fitted the coilovers.

Your rear toe needs to be adjusted but the camber is still someway off. Print out my results and take it with you, they should be able to achieve similar results. Also, why is the Castor greyed out?

....

Car drove perfectly straight before I broke an original spring and fitted the coilovers.

 

^Diagnostics should always start with the recent changes.

Your rear toe needs to be adjusted but the camber is still someway off. Print out my results and take it with you, they should be able to achieve similar results. Also, why is the Castor greyed out?

Can you adjust the castor on a basic VAG/ Skoda ?  I thought you had to buy upgraded Bushes....

Car is lowered so more negative front camber will occur. Rear camber us fully adjustable so is pretty much where it should be.

Took mine to ABC leeds, they got the steering wheel straight and the figures good, it took two of them nearly three hours and two test drives to get it right, plus they un-did my subframe and adjusted.

Wish I had done it as soon as I got the car but only got my arse in gear when I had a B12 kit fitted.

I had my car set up by John at Pro-Grip in Larbert Scotland and almost 11 months on since it was done the tyres are still perfect and no sawtoothing either.

 

http://www.pro-grip.org.uk/Home.html

 

Here is my print out below.

 

 

 

Edited 17 November, 201312 yr by themul

Think it's more a case of lazy alignment centers only adjusting one tie rod instead of making equal adjustments to both sides, then the steering wheel wanting to return to center where they usually rest. I'll get it sorted, I'm sure it's not suspension etc.