Hi. Want to do abit of sound proofing on my vrs as thats the only way you know your doing speeds approaching 70 (ish) mph

Ive looked for a guide but cant see anything. Has anyone got any tips of what to buy or not to buy and where the best places to put it are ?

Thanks

I'm going to do the same. The carpet is so damn thin and it goes straight into the metal.

Going to take it all up, put some some sort of underlay to sound proof it.

And also do behind the door cards

Thanks. Going to nip to halfords and have a look around

Is it very noticeable difference ?

Hi. Want to do abit of sound proofing on my vrs as thats the only way you know your doing speeds approaching 70 (ish) mph

Ive looked for a guide but cant see anything. Has anyone got any tips of what to buy or not to buy and where the best places to put it are ?

Thanks

 

 

Ummm.... Look at the noisekiller kit and also have a browse around t'web at where and what products to use.

 

Typically....

On the underside of the bonnet.  

On the floorpan underneath the carpets/seats and along the centre tunnel.

Boot floor and rear wheel arches and spare wheel well.  

Door outer skins.

 

There's a thread around somewhere....

 

J.

Used some carpet underlay under the back seats and rear half of car today. . Raided ebay and ordered copious amounts of sound deadening pads of different sizes and types .

Ill put into appropriate places when they all arive and I sort out how much ive got to play with

Ill share how I get on. If people are interested?

how did you get on?? did it make any difference?? Also one of my many jobs to do lol

The issue with the doors is the riveted door carriers so you struggle for access, unless you remove the windows etc to get to them.

I've heard good things about Cloud 9 Insulation as a replacement for the standard carpet

I've used the noisekiller kit on my 2004 Fabia vRS. 

 

It is a bit of a fiddle to fit and some of it will take 2 people (or at least it took 2 of us)

 

The under bonnet insulation is an easy place to start. The black liner on the bonnet unclips easily and then the insulation is self-adhesive. For all of the parts you may need to do some trimming with scissors as although they are pre-cut they may not fit exactly. The liner then goes back and the insulation doesn't show.

 

There is one big piece that goes on top of the hatch over the spare wheel (extremely easy) and then you line the spare wheel bay. Need to take spare wheel out and line the hole at the bottom and round the sides. Easy as well.

 

Next a piece on each rear wheel arch. You have to remove some trim to do this. I seem to remember removing the trim from around quite a lot of the boot but can't recall exactly. 

 

A large piece goes under the back seat. A couple of clips need to be released on the grey material under the seat. 

 

More difficult: 1 piece for each footwell. This goes under the carpet. To do this I took out both front seats and the centre console. You need an assistant to take the seats out and a suitable spline drive for the bolts that hold the seats to the floor. If you have airbags in the seats you must disconnect the battery before disconnecting the airbag connectors underneath the seats or you will get an airbag error displayed on the dashboard that you will need special equipment to clear. There will also be connectors for heated seats, possibly auto changer under passenger seat and seatbelt warning. The seats are heavy and it is easy to damage trim or paintwork without a helper.  I then loosened carpet from the trim along the sills and with an assistant slid the insulation in from the door side and grabbed it from the console side. 

 

Next pieces either side of centre tunnel. That's why the centre console needs to come out (as well as enabling the pieces under the floor to be pulled through). 

 

Finally there are pieces for the doors. These are meant to go on the inside of the outer door skin. In order to install these you would need to take off the door cards and then the door carriers. The door carriers are riveted in and frankly far too much work to take out. I installed the soundproofing under the door cards on the door carriers. The idea of the insulation for metal panels is not to form a complete barrier but to stop the panels resonating ("deaden" them). This seems to work. 

 

I also put some spare insulation from the kit on the inside of the boot hatch. Need to take trim off for that. 

 

End result? Not at all scientific but noticeably quieter. I did the insulation in stages as it was too much work to do all at once and I don't have a lot of free time. The most dramatic improvement is from soundproofing the boot area and under the back seat. There is no sound insulation there to start with. The underfloor insulation has made a difference but there is insulation there already so it's not that dramatic. To my great surprise it has made a difference to the boot hatch and doors. They sound far less tinny when closed and it does seem to reduce road noise. I suspect this is damping against the panels resonating. The under bonnet insulation has also made a difference. Again I think it stops resonance. 

 

A few other ideas: if you have the door cards off get a load of new clips. They will almost certainly break. Also factor in doing the door seal fix at the same time. There's no point taking off the door cards and not checking and fixing leaks. While you are at it check for loose, cracked or damaged trim parts especially parts missing clips or tabs. These can rattle and be annoying. Secure any loose wires you find as well. 

 

I'm really pleased I did it as part of some long overdue tlc for my car. Along with a new full leather interior (Seat Surgeons) it has really upped the standard of the whole car. The only real downside (other than the time to fit it) is all that insulation is heavy and it will inevitably affect fuel economy but I think the impact must be rather small. 

Edited 3 June, 201412 yr by svenedin

I've used the noisekiller kit on my 2004 Fabia vRS. 

 

It is a bit of a fiddle to fit and some of it will take 2 people (or at least it took 2 of us)

 

The under bonnet insulation is an easy place to start. The black liner on the bonnet unclips easily and then the insulation is self-adhesive. For all of the parts you may need to do some trimming with scissors as although they are pre-cut they may not fit exactly. The liner then goes back and the insulation doesn't show.

 

There is one big piece that goes on top of the hatch over the spare wheel (extremely easy) and then you line the spare wheel bay. Need to take spare wheel out and line the hole at the bottom and round the sides. Easy as well.

 

Next a piece on each rear wheel arch. You have to remove some trim to do this. I seem to remember removing the trim from around quite a lot of the boot but can't recall exactly. 

 

A large piece goes under the back seat. A couple of clips need to be released on the grey material under the seat. 

 

More difficult: 1 piece for each footwell. This goes under the carpet. To do this I took out both front seats and the centre console. You need an assistant to take the seats out and a suitable spline drive for the bolts that hold the seats to the floor. If you have airbags in the seats you must disconnect the battery before disconnecting the airbag connectors underneath the seats or you will get an airbag error displayed on the dashboard that you will need special equipment to clear. There will also be connectors for heated seats, possibly auto changer under passenger seat and seatbelt warning. The seats are heavy and it is easy to damage trim or paintwork without a helper.  I then loosened carpet from the trim along the sills and with an assistant slid the insulation in from the door side and grabbed it from the console side. 

 

Next pieces either side of centre tunnel. That's why the centre console needs to come out (as well as enabling the pieces under the floor to be pulled through). 

 

Finally there are pieces for the doors. These are meant to go on the inside of the outer door skin. In order to install these you would need to take off the door cards and then the door carriers. The door carriers are riveted in and frankly far too much work to take out. I installed the soundproofing under the door cards on the door carriers. The idea of the insulation for metal panels is not to form a complete barrier but to stop the panels resonating ("deaden" them). This seems to work. 

 

I also put some spare insulation from the kit on the inside of the boot hatch. Need to take trim off for that. 

 

End result? Not at all scientific but noticeably quieter. I did the insulation in stages as it was too much work to do all at once and I don't have a lot of free time. The most dramatic improvement is from soundproofing the boot area and under the back seat. There is no sound insulation there to start with. The underfloor insulation has made a difference but there is insulation there already so it's not that dramatic. To my great surprise it has made a difference to the boot hatch and doors. They sound far less tinny when closed and it does seem to reduce road noise. I suspect this is damping against the panels resonating. The under bonnet insulation has also made a difference. Again I think it stops resonance. 

 

A few other ideas: if you have the door cards off get a load of new clips. They will almost certainly break. Also factor in doing the door seal fix at the same time. There's no point taking off the door cards and not checking and fixing leaks. While you are at it check for loose, cracked or damaged trim parts especially parts missing clips or tabs. These can rattle and be annoying. Secure any loose wires you find as well. 

 

I'm really pleased I did it as part of some long overdue tlc for my car. Along with a new full leather interior (Seat Surgeons) it has really upped the standard of the whole car. The only real downside (other than the time to fit it) is all that insulation is heavy and it will inevitably affect fuel economy but I think the impact must be rather small. 

link to kit you bought?

Here is the link. During the order process you specify the make and model of the car and they cut the pieces for you. The kit comes with basic instructions and the parts are numbered. There are no instructions as to how to remove trim etc so you need a Haynes manual or the Skoda Workshop manual online.

 

http://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/car-soundproofing-full-kit-no-engine-blanket/

 

A few other things I've remembered: when taking out the seats it helps to remove the spline drive bolts and then tip the seat towards the dashboard. Whilst in the back of the car you can then get under the seat to release the wiring. Be very careful putting the spline bolts back; they are easy to cross-thread. I bought a set of spline bits from Machine Mart. Handy as spline drive is also used on the locks and strikers amongst other things. 

 

One of the most striking things I have noticed is that I need the radio at a much lower volume when at speed. It won't turn the car into a Rolls Royce though.....

Edited 3 June, 201412 yr by svenedin