I'm having my mot done at a national chain (desperation) and I've just watched a lad change a tyre on a kia ceed. He undid the bolts, tried getting it off and then started kicking the hell out of it. Still no joy so another bloke came over. Still no joy so then out came the rubber mallet.

Never ever ever am I having them do tyres for me!!

*face palm*

Unfortunately when an alloy wheel gets fused to the hub due to corrosion, it can leave you with little choice.

I doubt that kicking it will cause any damage

As said..If its stuck on, there's little else to do

Very little other way to do it.

It is what many will have to do at a road side,

and remember the car might be up on some cr4ppy Scissor Jack.

 

With Skoda and alloy wheels it can be required after only a few winter months with a new car.

Your new car might never have the Wheels off in 3 or 4 years with Skoda Dealership Servicing and there is no Grease between alloys and hub centre.

So things are quite possibly going to be difficult, if you have not taken measures to be sure you can get wheel nuts/bolts off, then wheels off.

 

So a Timely warning to Owners to get a bit of Copper Slip on pre Winter, 

and always be sure you could get your wheels off at the roadside.

(do not grease Studs, nuts, or bolts just check you can get them off, including locking Bolts/Nuts.)

Rubber mallet is sometimes the only way to get the wheel off, alloys don't just fall off the car if they have been on a while. Usually I have to kick mine a few times before they come off, although on an older car took a good whack with a rubber mallet to get them off.

As others state a corroded alloy can be a nightmare

 

 

 This is what I had to do to replace the rear caliper on my Golf. Kicked, rubber malleted, block and hammer and wouldn't shift an inch. Ended up having to split the discs/ hub whilst they were still stuck to the wheel to free them. 

Thats normal... 

Would a bit of heat not help remove a stuck wheel? Two different materials being heated will expand at different rates causing the wheel to come away? I've not had this issue, and not tried heat before but I've heard that's the best way to get things apart when they're stuck

You just have to tw@ it some.  

Dudeoil,  

what do you want to use to provide the heat to someones alloy wheels, (after removing the Centre Cap)

Hot Air Gun, Blow Gun, Hair Drier, or a Welding Torch?

 

A little non damaging force is the accepted way to do it..

But, Prevention is better than anything.

often im using sledge hammers, proper 14lb ones to remove wheels,,,,,

On hgvs

Welding torch George

You just have to tw@ it some.  

I'd like to nominate that for 'Best Answer' :yes:

Loosen wheel nuts but leave one in loose,

 

Go under car and hand on other wheel and swift kick on back of wheel and they usually come off, either that or you nearly end up with a sprained ankle,

 

Usually find a big bar with a rag wrapped round and bar it off from back works better and is less painful

ChrisRs,  

Welding Torch/Gas Axe, what we usually use to provide heat to release stuff. But not Alloy Wheels.

Would a bit of heat not help remove a stuck wheel? Two different materials being heated will expand at different rates causing the wheel to come away? I've not had this issue, and not tried heat before but I've heard that's the best way to get things apart when they're stuck

 

Indy had to do that for mine. Skoda franchise had never put slip on the meeting faces so they bonded good and proper. He had some choice words about it.

I had this problem and read that a kettle of boiling water then a good kick does the job. Turned out that it worked great.

The lengths i went to, to remove both front wheels on my uncles 3series were immense. In the end i had a 10ft peice of 2x4 wedged in the back of the alloy sticking out the other side of the car, my uncle holding the wood and me smacking the wood with a sledge hammer for about 15mins each side.

I had this problem on a hire car in Greece last year.

I even resorted to doing doughnuts with loosened wheel nuts to try and shift it. 

 

That didn't work, so the hire company eventually sent a man with a whopping big sledge hammer to knock seven bells out of it until it eventually and gradually came away.

Unbelievable.

When I had the rear tyres changed on my old car it was about 4 years old and it was the first time the wheels had been off the car.   It took two blokes 15 minutes with a variety of tools (including a comedy size rubber mallet) to get them off.

Had to kick hell out of a wheel on the mongrel once... Ever since then I always slap a little copper grease around.....

ChrisRs,  

Welding Torch/Gas Axe, what we usually use to provide heat to release stuff. But not Alloy Wheels.

I was joking

I replaced a rear pads on my car yesterday, the O/S/R whelk would not come off so I had to kick whith some force around the endge if the wheel, it finally dropped when I made it around 360o

Completely normal with lazy dealers/techs not removing wheels and simply working through them.

Happened on my Puma.

 

I got a screw in my tire, so attempted to change it (first time on this car for the rears in my ownership.. it was pretty old and neglected at that point). Anyway, after bending two tire irons, I finally managed to get hold of a reasonable sized bar... managed to get the dammed nuts off only to find the dam thing wouldn't budge. At this point I'm in B&Qs car park so one of their guys came and helped me, took two of us kicking/pushing/pulling for 10mins to get it off. 

 

My fear was i had a slow puncture and if I left it that night I'd be doing it in the morning... it was a considerable sized head sticking out the tire making a tick tick sound ever rotation on the tarmac.

 

Took it to the tire place in the morning, still inflated. They pulled the screw head off(rather than out!) along with around 2mm of shaft. It hadn't even penetrated the tread!

 

All wheels came off the puma that day and some slip was applied!