…because I can't find it!

Let alone the actuator I was actually hoping to find.

Maybe this is a sign that I should take it to a garage, but I'm up for a challenge and ant to learn and understand.

So, where's the turbo and actuator on this BKD engine?

Is it:

a) under the air intake pipes;

under the thick black tube by the scuttle panel;

c) under the auxiliary belt on the left of picture.

PS: I have read the Mr Muscle / VNT thread several times and I'm still not clear.

Sod the turbo clean the chuffin engine bay ! 

 

It will be bolted just under the exhaust manifold, also look for the large (3” ish) diameter rubber hose going from the intercooler to the turbo.

 

Does the exhaust run under the sump on a BKD? if so it will be at the front of the engine. (if it doesn’t then it will be between the engine and bulkhead... both roughly in the middle of the engine block) 

I haven't git around to cleaning the outside of the car and trying the wax alternative Wardy sent me yet, let alone cleaning the engine bay..,

I can't see anything remotely turbo looking down the front of the engine, so it must be between the engine & bulkhead. Not an easy place to get to from what poking around I did today.

So I'm guessing then...

Looks like I need to remove the big black air pipe across the top of the engine by the bulkhead and get down there somewhere / somehow.

I can't go in from underneath as one of the bolts holding the engine tray on has a stripped head!

A bit of googling found this:

 

This is looking at the back of the engine (cam belt cover is on the R/H side) so it is indeed by the bulkhead... the turbo is the rusty part in the centre of the block above.

It's between the engine and the bulkhead, the thick pipe is the air inlet hose. However, I would recommend against doing it yourself, based on the tools shown in the picture alone

Thanks Gizmo. That's very useful (for a visual learner like me).

Maybe I can get to it by removing the air intake and going at it from the passenger side of the car.

Access to the turbo will be from underneath the car then as I'm guessing there is little chance of reaching it from under the bonnet!

 

Clean the engine? Why on earth would you want or need to do that!?

However, I would recommend against doing it yourself, based on the tools shown in the picture alone

That's just the first ones to hand to remove the engine cover & air intake. Not indicative of what else is in the garage...

It's more likely that skill level and confidence will dissuade me from doing it, not the tools available,

Pleased to see I'm not the only one to have searched an engine bay in vain hunting for a turbo! I'd concluded I'd need to take the floor panel off to find it underneath, and looks like I was probably right.

 

Out of curiousity, what is the black ball to the left of the oil dipstick?

The turbo is cleaned from underneath. May I suggest the innotec kit. To the OP - I suggest you get someone to do it for you or this could end up an expensive undertaking. What symptoms are you getting to want to clean the turbo ?. There is another kit that does an ok job of the cleaning but is not as thorough as the innotec kit called REVIVE. It is sprayed into the engine, you will need VCDS afterwards though to clear off the fault code that the cleaning process will generate.

I agree with Raddars567 Innotec Turbo Cleaner, or 10K Boost. I'd recommend 10K boost as it costs £20, all you need to do is spray in the intercooler pipe. Take the maf pipe off then spray it. It is a 2 man job, as one needs to spray and the other to hold on 2.5K rpm.  Once the 10K boost is completely empty, you then need to hit the motorway. This will clear all the **** that's inside the turbo, you will see instant difference. 

Out of curiousity, what is the black ball to the left of the oil dipstick?

You are not alone.

And I was wondering the same when I took the engine cover off.

To the OP - I suggest you get someone to do it for you or this could end up an expensive undertaking. [/qoute]

Agreed. If I'm not 100% sure I'm doing the right thing, I won't do it or I'll get someone who does to do it.

What symptoms are you getting to want to clean the turbo ?

Turbo was cutting out if pushed to high revs and going into limp mode. Turning the engine off and back on again fixed it until next time. I also have an over boost error logged with VCDS.

This disappeared for a few weeks and I was trying to get the engine hot before running at high revs for a while to try to burn off any deposits.

It had all but gone until the other day when I hit 3500 rpm in an engine that wasn't quite hot and it did it again.

I agree with Raddars567 Innotec Turbo Cleaner, or 10K Boost. I'd recommend 10K boost as it costs £20, all you need to do is spray in the intercooler pipe.

I've had quite a few different suggestions for what to use but not the 10k.

I'll have a look at that when (if) I ever get to the stage of knowing exactly what I'm doing.

I've used 10K Boost on all my TDI's, well worth it. Pretty straight forward once you've read the instructions. 

Either the 10k or the REVIVE I can cope with. I understand their instructions fully.

Obviously not going to be as good as Mr Muscle or anything out straight into the turbo, but is it worth trying on a car that is showing early signs of problems?

Have you replaced coil packs (is yours diesel though?), mine had a similar fault when asking the engine to work hard. Turned out to be a faulty coil pack that didn't show the obvious stuttering faults but just put the car in limp mode until switched on and off.

I was also getting over boost errors. Replaced all coil packs and been perfect for last 6k.

Edited 24 November, 201312 yr by vrs777

Have you replaced coil packs, mine had a similar fault when asking the engine to work hard. Turned out to be a faulty coil pack that didn't show the obvious stuttering faults but just put the car in limp mode until switched on and off.

Bit hard to do on a diesel though...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

It's a diesel (PD) so not applicable, but thanks.

I've not got any really obvious stuttering (nothing that changing the fuel filter doesn't normally clear) just an occasional limp mode when pushed to high revs.

As I said earlier, I had a couple of weeks with no issues. Even whilst running at 3-4.5k revs for short periods (up to a minute or so).

Then it went again this week. Most likely because the engine wasn't properly warm.

Here's a recent scan:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl

Part No SW: 03G 906 021 LD HW: 03G 906 021 LD

Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 8514

Revision: --H06--- Serial number: SKZ7Z0G4110335

Coding: 0000072

Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000

VCID: 6CDD3D444FBDA77E58B-8039

2 Faults Found:

001681 - Fan 1 Control Circuit

P0691 - 000 - Short to GND - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00100000

Fault Priority: 0

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 255

Mileage: 211723 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2000.00.00

Time: 13:21:06

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 0 /min

Speed: 0.0 km/h

Load: 0.0 %

Voltage: 11.93 V

Bin. Bits: 00101100

Temperature: 16.2?C

Duty Cycle: 9.7 %

000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation

P0234 - 000 - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 01110000

Fault Priority: 0

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 255

Mileage: 212124 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2000.00.00

Time: 14:16:24

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 3696 /min

Speed: 93.0 km/h

Load: 49.4 %

Voltage: 14.59 V

Bin. Bits: 00101000

Absolute Pres.: 1764.6 mbar

Absolute Pres.: 2131.8 mbar

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK70.lbl

Part No: 1K0 907 379 P

Component: ASR FRONT MK70 0105

Coding: 0000641

Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000

VCID: 3F87BA086E4BECE6AD9-806A

1 Fault Found:

00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30

002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Cruise control stopped working at the same time as the boost / turbo problems on three occasions. I suspect that the fan & voltage faults are not related to the turbo problem.

Have you checked the pipe that connects to the EGR valve? When I bought my car, I had the coil light flashing, and car was stuck in limp mode. I noticed the pipe that connects to EGR was slightly out of place, since I connected it properly (touch wood) I've had no issues. 

You are not alone.

And I was wondering the same when I took the engine cover off.

I think its the vacuum reservoir IIRC.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Either the 10k or the REVIVE I can cope with. I understand their instructions fully.

Obviously not going to be as good as Mr Muscle or anything out straight into the turbo, but is it worth trying on a car that is showing early signs of problems?

 

I have used the REVIVE kit a few times with  50 / 50 results. As you have VCDS its worth giving the REVIVE kit a go. Then if not get a mechanic to do the Innotec kit for you, this may be the cheapest and best option in the long run. BTW the innotec kit is not that difficult to do / use.

From what I've read either the Innotec or Mr Muscle techniques are not that difficult to do as long as you know where to put the stuff in the first place.

That's what I'm really struggling with.

And until I'm 100% sure I'm not squirting anything into my engine.

The ones that go into the air intake after the MAF I can easily do. The EGR & turbo ones aren't (at the moment).

I've been looking at this turbo for sale thread as it's got some pretty good pictures of a BKD turbo (i'm not thinking of buying it as I'm pretty sure I don't need it - and I'm not selling it either).

 

Please correct me if I am wrong on any of these observations:

1. The turbo sits on the left of the engine towards the driver's feet;
2. There is no obvious actuator to move whilst the cleaning product is in the turbo;
3. The cleaning product (Mr Muscle?) goes into the hole on the bottom left of the first picture.

It wouldn't surprise me if I am all wrong on these which is why I've not done anything about cleaning as yet.