hi guys, it got me wondering, I have 4 pot in the front from 996 Turbo and 232 at the back (I have the 256 and will install them, dont shout). I have replaced the hoses too.  When I brake, it feels a bit spongy.

 

When I drive my mate's Scirocco 1.4TSI factory standard all the way, every time I brake I am about to exit the wind screen.

Same thing when I drive my mate's Golf 4, 1.6, sport line or sport edition.  Same behavior as above.

All other cars I might drive, Octavias, Polos, Fabias, Hondas etc etc the brake is normal(spongy).

 

So how can I make my brakes have the same effect with my mate's Scirocco or Golf 4? 

Or better, why do mine feel like sponge?

 

 

could be a number of things

 

air in any part of the system, duff master cylinder seals

 

did you bleed the whole system including the MC (both valves) in order?

 

might also be your caliper pistons are too large for the MC which can cause longer travel/less firm pedal

if the seals were duff it should leak?

I had them bleed indeed, cannot remember the order but the mechanic at the time explained what the right order was and he did it like this.  I think FL, FR then RL and then RR.

 

The pedal has always been the same, even when I changed the brakes and having that placebo that is going to be so much better and firm...they didnt.

 

I am really gutted, I remember ages ago I talked with a guy that he had installed 4pot from a 993 Turbo and the braking was mental.  Surely the 996 pistons cannot be that much bigger from the 993

you also need to bleed the MC as air in there can cause this, you need to do the four corners in order, then the mc too.

 

but bigger pistons can cause issues too, there are guides online to which calipers are better than others (can't remember off the top of my head which)

 

first thing i would do is check for any leaks in the system, then rebleed inc the MC

Always thought the rule of foot with bleeding brakes was to start at the corner furthest away from the MC & finish at the nearest. IIRC MC has 2 bleed nipples & the lower should be bled first.

If the MC ran dry at any point the ABS pump needs to be bled, & can only be done using VCDS/Vagcom..

Check out your vacuum lines and servo seals too - a minor leak in these will leave you with spongy brakes

 

Switch to DS2500 pads too, these give significantly sharper bite

the ABS pump needs to be bled with VAG COM?

Never done this before nor have heard of it.  Will definitely have a look.  It never ran dry by the way

 

I really dont think is the pads, I had 'Red Stuff' and now Textar, both driven really hard but no difference at all.

I really dont think is the pads, I had 'Red Stuff' and now Textar, both driven really hard but no difference at all.

 

that's your problem right there

 

Standard OEM spec mintex or pagid pads would be an upgrade

fair enough but even when I am stopped I press the brake pedal with no particular force and the foot goes down progressively

All the way to the floor ?

 

the sinking pedal effect

 

What happens when you pump the pedal - any change in character ?

the ABS pump needs to be bled with VAG COM?

Never done this before nor have heard of it.  Will definitely have a look.  It never ran dry by the way

 

I really dont think is the pads, I had 'Red Stuff' and now Textar, both driven really hard but no difference at all.

the abs pump can get air in, though it shouldn't unless you let the system get low enough to get air in. Then you need to bleed with vag.com.

 

If you haven't bled the MC, then you NEED to do this to eliminate that. Then check lines as suggested for leaks.

 

How has the car been bled in the past by foot or by pressure bleeder?

As i said before if the MC seals could be at fault but are not likely if pressure bled.

 

Its not your pads.

the ABS pump needs to be bled with VAG COM?

Never done this before nor have heard of it.  Will definitely have a look.  It never ran dry by the way

 

I really dont think is the pads, I had 'Red Stuff' and now Textar, both driven really hard but no difference at all.

Er Red Stuff is basically a track pad, and needs to be hot to get bite. 

 

Aside from which, I'd agree about the need to bleed the ABS block and master cylinder (using a vacumn bleeder; you can force air into the brakes if you use a pressure bleeder and take the pressure over 15PSI relative).

I bled the brakes by foot only and started from the furthest wheel.

 

if I pump the pedal then it does not sink, it stays at the top.

 

The red staff were driven really hard in a 12 mile country road with very sharp corners, they were really hot after 2min, thats why I said it is not them.

 

I have no idea about pressure bleed, will have a look and probably go for it too.

Is this something any garage can do?

pressure or vacuum is the type of kit garages tend to have.

vacuum better if poss.

 

by foot is not ideal, if you over pump you can invert the MC seals.

 

You haven't said yet if you did bleed the MC too?

I honestly dont know... probably not

then you def need to do that too.

Sounds like you need to hit restart with a rebleed and mc bleed

 

Take it from there

I bled the brakes by foot only and started from the furthest wheel.

 

Great, we now have a possibility of inverted MC seals as well.

 

Please redo from start with a VCDS vacumn bleed of all calipers, ABS block and MC.