Hello,

 

I'm wondering if anyone here can help. I've upgraded both the front and rear callipers/discs (312mm front/256mm rear) but have run into some problems. The main one being that the fronts don't seam to be biting and there is a lot of play in the break peddle.

 

I though that there might be air trapped in the ABS pump so, very sheepishly, drove the 200 yards from work to the Skoda dealer over the road. They done a complete fluid change and pressure bleed the system, but still the problem remains. When I went to pick the car up I was advised that the Master Cylinder was probably not up to the job, but having have a good read around here it seams it should be fine?

 

The front discs and pads are not in the best of shape so I have picked up some replacement Pagid one, which are to be replaced in the morning.

 

If replacing the discs/pads doesn't work then what else should I be looking at, is the MC really not up to the job?

 

Just a bit stuck really as the rears seam to be doing all the work. 

 

Any help or advise gratefully received 

 

Cheers

 

Russ

I've been running 313's for a while and just this week upgraded to 256 at the rear and I have no issues like you describe.

Replace the discs and pads and see how you get on I reckon.

brakes are what slow you down 
breaks are when you drink tea/coffee at work ....


when you bled the system your self first time round did you use a pressure bleeder or did you pump the foot pedal....  if you used the foot pedal by pressing the pedal to the floor rather than only pressing the first inch - inch and half of travel it is possible that the seal in the master cylinder has been damaged 

I bled mine by pumping the pedal to the floor and not had any problems with leaks etc

Holmesie is correct I'm afraid, if your bleeding brakes using the foot pedal, only press is down a little bit at a time.

Richard, yours may well be fine, but it does happend and looks like it possibly has to the op.

It is rare it happens, but it's just good practice to get into while bleeding brakes. Or invest in a power bleeder for £10.

There are a few ways to test the master cylinder but none easy that I can think of. What's the pedal like with the engine off and you pump the pedal up and down a few times?

Hello,

Appolies for the poor grammar, although I don't drink tea ????. I used an easy bleed the first time round, but I'm pretty sure air got into the system as it took an age to get one of the front banjo bolts in. That why I decided to take it to skoda, to get bled probably.

When the ignition is off the peadel goes stiff after a few pumps but as soon as the ignition is switched on and the servo is engaged the it becomes very spongy.

Is the MC easy to change, Will it need to go back to skoda to be properly bled after it's been changed?

Thankyou for all you help so far.

Cheers

Russ

Edited 29 November, 201312 yr by Rustyp81

I think you're probably on the right track(s), regardless of speeling or grandma.

 

Seams are for welding, BTW, seems.... is plausible.

 

Remember that pads need time to bed in,. On my old car (AX GT) they sorted themselves out within a couple of miles of gentle driving. Fabia took maybe a couple of miles more. Main consideration is not having to brake too hard too soon. Gentle to medium braking only. It should be obvious when they start to bed in/bite.

 

BTW: I have the pagids too but in weeny 288mm. They're a good brand that perform well.

Quick update,disc and pads were changed yesterday,with little to no difference made.i'm guessing it's time to swap out the master cylinder? Are the pagid ones any good or should I stick with an OEM one?

Cheers

Russ

Does sound like the master cylinder as others suggested.

Nothing wrong with Pagid for normal road use, I was running them all round until I upgraded the rears last week that came with cheap crap, so will change to Pagid later as they also should (and hadn't yet) not rust

If you want to be sure first (and your going to remove them anyway when changing it)

Remove all the brake pipes from the master cylinder, screw some blanks in there place. See what the brake pedal is like after that. You've elimated almost everything by doing this so if the pedal is still soft it's the cylinder. If the pedal is really hard the cylinder is fine!

You can then narrow down which wheel is causing problems by putting a tool onto each brake flexie pipe to stop the fluid and pump the pedal again.

It's easy really!

If you want to be sure first (and your going to remove them anyway when changing it)

Remove all the brake pipes from the master cylinder, screw some blanks in there place. See what the brake pedal is like after that. You've elimated almost everything by doing this so if the pedal is still soft it's the cylinder. If the pedal is really hard the cylinder is fine!

You can then narrow down which wheel is causing problems by putting a tool onto each brake flexie pipe to stop the fluid and pump the pedal again.

It's easy really!

when doing this try pressing the pedal in different ways.

ive had it before where you stamp on the brakes and everything works fine but press the pedal lightly and it goes straight to the floor