Are you sure its from the exhaust - my rocker box gasket failed and was leaking oil straight onto the exhaust manifold. Also use thicker oil 10/40 as it's getting on 170k - Also use semi synthetic. Fully synthetic has a lower viscosity and burns/leaks quicker in an old engine.

If it's doing it hot it might well be the PCV system at fault with possible a sticky pcv valve. But I'd get some stem seal treatment, not expensive and won't do any harm and bring forward your oil change a bit and clean out that pickup line. Sometimes it takes quite a lot of miles for an oil light to go out, weirdly the oil just doesn't hit the sensor sometimes then suddenly it'll just go off.

I hope so with regards to the oil light.. checked level this morning and its just under max. Strange one

 

 

Also after meeting a friend who has had many an ibiza Gupta, he is saying turbo because the symptoms I'm having, he has had on his and it was turbo.. he said changed the turbo and problem gone.

 

But he also backed up the statements about the oil pickup as a MUST DO like you guys at (not that I doubted any of you).. So it seems I am on the lookout for a turbo now :-(

 

What's the difference between ko3 and ko3s? I don't want the **** one lol 

You need a ko3s, the ko3 is older but afaik the housing is identical. Before you get a new turbo, it's worth trying one of those stop oil leak additives. The millers one worked great on my old car.

It's a pain to do but to check your turbo you need to get the intake off it. Once it's off grip the end of the turbo shaft and try moving up and down- there should be little or zero play here- it may move back and forth a touch but should be almost zero play up and down. If there's play then bad bearings or seals and bew turbo needed. Actually, you do not need a whole new turbo, what you need is simply a CHRA cartridge (the turbo;s internals). You can buy them much much cheaper than the full turbo and they come pre-balanced. It's just a matter of taking off the old turbo, splitting it apart and changing the cartridge and assembling it again. Def a K03s not K03 on a VRS but if you search for Octavia Mk1 VRS CHRA in Google it should bring up what you need

I know this doesn't help you as such - but for what it's worth, compared to my car, it seems you might have a problem, yes.

 

I bought mine on 80k and she's now showing 132k. Running a stage 1 remap.

 

I trust in Mobil 1 oil, and run it to 10k between changes, with a 50/50 split of town/motorway, with the odd Italian tune-up maybe once a week

 

In the 10k between changes, I have to top-up at about 3k and 6k...each time the dipstick shows half full, and I drop in maybe half a litre to get it back to showing full. Then at the 10k change, the dipstick is back to around half full.

 

So mine uses about a litre of Mobil 1 (0w-40) every 10,000 miles...

that is helpful thanks,,, i am told they are designed to use a small amount of oil.... but this is just WOAH.!! :-o

 

i picked up a new turbo today and forge actuator,, going to rip the sump off, clean pick up, check the oil pump,, refit, fill up and she should be mint

I would have held off buying a turbo until I knew more.

When you fit it you'll need to check that the actuator is set right. It could end in tears if not set right.

I was umming and are'ing about it Dave but when my mate saw it he said straight away turbo because same symptoms on his cupra happened.. But to top it all, last 2-3 days the turbo has sounded like a supercharger, screaming its nuts off. Sounds quite kool in some respects but I know that **** isn't right lol :-o

 

The turbo came off a running car today, the boys drove it back from Cornwall to Birmingham and said it was  great.. 

That does sound like a borked turbo lol

 

Point taken !!

Lol.. it screams haha 

 

Sounds nuts but ain't gunna last long! :-o

 

Swapping it out Tuesday , hopefully my 3' downpipe will arrive Monday, pay for my revo ecu Monday, will prob fit the front mount at the same time.... I'm getting so impatient but do it once - do it properly :-)

I know this doesn't help you as such - but for what it's worth, compared to my car, it seems you might have a problem, yes.

I bought mine on 80k and she's now showing 132k. Running a stage 1 remap.

I trust in Mobil 1 oil, and run it to 10k between changes, with a 50/50 split of town/motorway, with the odd Italian tune-up maybe once a week

In the 10k between changes, I have to top-up at about 3k and 6k...each time the dipstick shows half full, and I drop in maybe half a litre to get it back to showing full. Then at the 10k change, the dipstick is back to around half full.

So mine uses about a litre of Mobil 1 (0w-40) every 10,000 miles...

I have found the answer to a question this raised for me, which I have now deleted. Thanks :-)

The answer being that anywhere in the cross- hatched area of the dipstick is OK

Edited 19 January, 201412 yr by Rik Cortez

FWIW I never have to topup between 6k services (Mobil 1 0w40 also).  Level stays the same.

I was thinking zero W grade oils would be to thin...

 

I will most prob go for a 5w30 or 10w ... 

 

Obv sympathetic lol 

Is there such a thing as a 10/40 fully synthetic ??

I thought all 10w40 was semi-synthetic to David. Here's castrol's recommendation http://magnatec.castrol.com/en/oil-selector.html

and having seen how good this stuff is in Hondas where I used to work i can defo recommend it. The edge oil has a uv dye in it to help find oil leaks abit like the stuff you can add to a/c systems.

No 10w40 is semi sympathetic lol