what is the correct position of the temp gauge, when warm?

[Psl]

On my 1.6 combi the gauge only just creeps over the quarter, when on a good run, is this correct? engine runs fine but expansion tank is seeping water out from the cap when under pressure. Gauge rises up to 3 quarters if I leave it running on my drive and fan kicks in, so am I right in thinking im in need of a new cts switch? as my heater works very well and warms up after a few miles.

 I welcome suggestions from those in the know

[dohnjoe]

normal reading is at half way (middle line)

that is roughly 90 deg. C

your engine is overheating by your description.

 

your thermostat may be stuck closed.

I'd check that 1st.

if not, fan kicks in too late.

change radiator fan switch.

[Psl]

thanks for getting back to me, ill get said items ordered and give it a go

[dohnjoe]

check first then order.

[Cobwobbler]

On a similar line mine hardly moves off zero and takes 10miles to get the heater warmish. any ideas?

[Psl]

On a similar line mine hardly moves off zero and takes 10miles to get the heater warmish. any ideas?

if yours is a 1.3, it was the same issue I had on my old one, I replaced the thermostat and all was good

[dohnjoe]

your thermostat is stuck open.

change it or you will waste money on fuel.

[warbuli]

Hi following on this post...

 

what is the normal position for a 1.3 mpi (the higher bhp version) felicia temp gauge?

Edited 20 February, 2014 by warbuli

[Psl]

Hi following on this post...

 

what is the normal position for a 1.3 mpi (the higher bhp version) felicia temp gauge?

Once I had done my thermostat on my 1.3 the gauge sat just below the half way mark

[dohnjoe]

all internal combustion engines on all stock cars on the planet are most efficient and run at a nominal temperature of 90 deg. C.

temperature gauge needle should stay in the middle.

[warbuli]

Once I had done my thermostat on my 1.3 the gauge sat just below the half way mark

 

 

all internal combustion engines on all stock cars on the planet are most efficient and run at a nominal temperature of 90 deg. C.

temperature gauge needle should stay in the middle.

 

 

Thanks! well the gauge does not have a lot of numbers on it only 70 and 110 so i cannot really know what it is reading but normally it stays below the half way mark unless i hit some traffic... it then goes up up and up like its on a lunar mission to mars haha but i think i know what the problem is and am going to fix it soon

[Cobwobbler]

Same here ..:-) thanks guys. I was thinking I'd leave it be "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" but if it could save me fuel on my 212mile a week commute I'll do it. Out of interests what mpg is average for a 1.3 estate. I get an easy 40, should it be higher?

[Psl]

not having much luck with this at the moment, tried taking the thermostat out but cracked the casing, so ordered a new housing, on removing of housing I broke the U clip at the back of the housing, so now waiting for new one to arrive. While stat was off I checked that and it works a treat.

On another note the new thermostat housing came with a blue switch fitted but I have a yellow one in my old housing, is there a difference?

[dohnjoe]

On another note the new thermostat housing came with a blue switch fitted but I have a yellow one in my old housing, is there a difference?

that is not a switch, it is a sensor.

a temperature sensor.

and yes, it is different.

color coded.

put the yellow sensor in place of the blue one.

but please don't break it too...

[Psl]

that is not a switch, it is a sensor.

a temperature sensor.

and yes, it is different.

color coded.

put the yellow sensor in place of the blue one.

but please don't break it too...

I`ll try not to

 

What is the difference between the two of them?

[dohnjoe]

IWhat is the difference between the two of them?

different temperature characteristic (resistance of the thermistor(s) inside as a function of temperature)

[TeflonTom]

Yes I agree with this, the 1.6 engines should have a yellow sensor, normally with temperature sensors I would bypass all the cheapo factored pattern parts and go straight for the genuine skoda part at about £40 ish, the pattern parts are rubbish and they never work right.

[Psl]

Replacement parts now fitted, after getting the wrong one sent. So shall see how it goes

[skodanorman]

Had issues with running temperature ever since I got our Felicia (10,000 miles ago). I have changed the sensor but that didn't help. I have changed the thermostat housing for a new part but that hasn't helped. I have religiously maintained the coolant level but that hasn't helped. 

 

It doesn't really bother me though. The heater works and the car doesn't overheat (if stationary in traffic it will raise to 90) but spends most of it's time around 75. Not much help but point is, don't worry *too* much about it as long as the car isn't overheating and do try changing the thermostat housing if the sensor doesn't fix it. 

 

As for mpg - 1.3mpi hatchback (54bhp); 34mpg. 

[dohnjoe]

It doesn't really bother me though. The heater works and the car doesn't overheat (if stationary in traffic it will raise to 90) but spends most of it's time around 75.

 

As for mpg - 1.3mpi hatchback (54bhp); 34mpg. 

'under'heating is bad too for fuel economy.

ICEs are designed to perform best at 90 C.

so I wouldn't be so satisfied running the engine most of the time at 75 C.

[Psl]

so far not so good....... new stat in and needle is sitting right at the bottom of the gauge, unless sitting in traffic it doesn't rise. Opens and closes fine on test, so do you think its worth changing the sensor? as this genuine skoda one is the original? still puffing out with smoke from the exhaust but expansion tank isn't pressurising. Your thoughts as always welcome

[dohnjoe]

the cap of the expansion tank has a valve

that sometimes fails.

you can replace the cap or use the Czech solution (see below)

[Psl]

im loving your replacement.

  Im I right in thinking, the hissing sound from the cap, is the valve working, if there is no coolant loss?

[dohnjoe]

im loving your replacement.

not my idea, a Czech mechanic sent me 2 weeks ago a bunch of photos, these 2 included.

 

  Im I right in thinking, the hissing sound from the cap, is the valve working, if there is no coolant loss?

yes, hissing = valve working, but if it's faulty, it opens at a lower pressure

thus not allowing the cooling system to pressurize.

you have to know from physics that in a pressurized system water boils at over 100 C.

by contrary, a not well pressurized system = bad cooling.

my advice is to clean first all debris from cap.

use a toothpick and a toothbrush (not yours, your wife's) then flush.

as for  the temp gauge, might be a faulty sensor or might be a bad contact of temp gauge itself.

a bad temp sensor means huge fuel consumption (ECU in open loop all the time, think as if you have a manual choke pulled all the way in winter)

so if consumption is ok, then check gauge itself for bad contacts on PCB.

of course a VAG scanner would make things much easier.

[warbuli]

my advice is to clean first all debris from cap.

use a toothpick and a toothbrush (not yours, your wife's) then flush.

as for  the temp gauge, might be a faulty sensor or might be a bad contact of temp gauge itself.

a bad temp sensor means huge fuel consumption (ECU in open loop all the time, think as if you have a manual choke pulled all the way in winter)

so if consumption is ok, then check gauge itself for bad contacts on PCB.

of course a VAG scanner would make things much easier.

 

 

hi what would be the affects of the water tank not pressurizing?

also... i noticed that the felicia models had two types of tank taps a blue and the traditional black what are the difference between them?

 

i am assuming that one of them allows for more pressure to build up but i am not sure.

 

following that question, which one should a 1.3mpi engine have?