I actually have a few questions to ask your valued opinions on today please:

 

1.  Boot electrics failure

Lasy Sunday evening, I packed up my car as per usual to drive to my weekly pad for work (50 miles away).  It was mostly motorway driving.  My boot was working fine when I left but, when I arrived, the boot would not open (neither button under the twindoor boot rim worked, and neither did the keyfob boot button).  So, I had to climb in through the back seats to get all my stuff.  The inactive boot stayed like this for 4 days, and then was working when I checked it on Thursday evening (and again this morning).  That car had not been switched on between Sunday late evening and Friday morning.

Any ideas what could have caused this, and whether I should have it looked at (now that it's working again)?

The only thing that I can think I did differently was leaving my freshly-baked bread cooling in an open tupperware container in the boot as I drove across on Sunday, meaning that there would have been some steam in the boot area.  Not sure if this could have contributed to the problem.  It wasn't a large loaf, so I would be surprised.

 

2.  Battery

In recent weeks, the engine has taken a few turns to start when I turn the key in the ignition.  This has never been the case before (since I bought it new in Aug 2010).  This may well be a sign that the battery needs replacing.  I know we had to buy a new battery for my wife's Octaiva Estate (bought new in June 2010) last year, after it failed completely.  And I see there are threads on here about underpowered Superb batteries.  So, perhaps this is not that uncommon, and it may have contributed to the boot power above?

 

3.  Passenger wing mirror

I have this set to lower that when I select the Reverse gear.  As far as I remember, this has always reverted back to the original position after an alternative gear has been selected.  However, the mirror no longer reverts, and remains in the lowered position.  Not unsurmountable obviously, as I then just manually adjust it back.  But, it should revert back on its own.  Could this again be linked to the battery above, or just an unrelated issue?

 

I thought I would throw these all in together.  Thanks for bearing with me thus far, and thank you in advance for your thoughts.

 

Andrew.

Edited 21 February, 201412 yr by JB.

#3 mine only turn back up after I've driven forward and past 10mph. Reverts automatically if I reverse and switch off the car.

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Hi, when sitting here reading I start to wonder if it could all be battery related ... Those new cars, and all their functions, are so computerized and very depending on the voltage being correct at all time ... Just an idea ...

had the boot problems you have and I put it down to power failure to the boot motors by two different events.

1st one; had parrot phone kit installed, power got from spare fuse in the fuse box to the right of the drivers wheel,  boot stopped working approx 3 to 4 days after installing. pulled out the power cable to the parrot, disconnected and reconnected the battery under the hood , and boot worked again. so the parrot is draining power from the boot motors, i'm still going without a parrot, dont know where to power it.

2nd one; the wire loom that feeds your boot mechanism runs through the left arm of the sedan part of the boot, the wires in this arm get pinched and break, hence no boot operations.

there is a post with photos on this site illustrating exactly where to locate this problem. think it goes by "twin boot wiring problem"

I pulled the loom out of that arm as where this loom enters there are sharp edges with no movement of the cable, hence wires get pinched, bad design but I do like the twin boot option.

happy sorting, it drove me mad for a while till i sorted the pinched wiring.

Thanks for the replies. SkodaNP, I have found the Wiring Fix thread, and will have a look at this. It doesn't seem to be quite the same problem, as the problem there appears to be a non-working hatch button, whereas with mine neither the batch or boot buttons work, nor too the keyfob bot release button. But, I shall have a gander at the photo solution, and see if it could help with mine.

Thank you again,

Andrew.

An update on the boot electrics failure:

 

My local dealer replaced the electric boot unit in March - this cost me £200 including labour (as my car is 3.5 years old, so outside of warranty).  Roll forward 4 weeks and the issue has happened again - complete boot electrics failure.  My car is booked in again this weekend (the delay as I need a courtesy car).

 

I had phoned Skoda HQ up originally to see if they would cover any of the original repair cost, as it seemed like a machanical design issue to me (I use the car rarely, generally 2 x 35-mile trips each week).  However, they would not budge.

 

My question is: given that this exact failure has happened again within a 4-week period of being supposedly fixed, surely I can't be expected to pay for the fix a second time?  Is there some sort of guarantee that comes with mechanical work done by Skoda dealers?  Once the dealer have diagnosed the issue, I will contact Skoda HQ and raise this with them.

Edited 22 May, 201412 yr by JB.

I would've thought that the workmanship would be covered for 2 years. Whether that is parts only or also labour, I'm not sure. But, if the same garage had to re-do a piece of work that they did just a few months ago due to either a parts or fitting problem, I would not reasonably expect to pay anything.

Assuming its a twin door?

 

Very common fault with the wiring looms snapping at the hinge point, there are repair sections for the wiring loom available.

As mentioned above its a common fault,

I've had it fail on two different type of events.

 

1) wire loom that runs through the hinge are of the sedan part of the boot, it gets pinched here, there is a tread/ post on this site that fixes it and if your any way good on the DIY, you would do it youself. 

I pulled out the loom from the middle of that hinge arm as its getting pinched where it enters, I have it taped to the inside of the arm.

 

2) I had a parrot kit installed and this stopped the operation of the twin door.  quick disconnect of the car battery under the bonnett and reconnect, shes reset.

I done this for a while but the frequency of the boot failure became 2 -3 times a week and you couldnt have that, so I disconnected the parrot and it has never failed to open.

I'm not sure if I needed coding for the parrot, but fed up with it so Im going with a blutooth module.

 

Try a reset on your car battery (disconnect and reconnect about a minute later, dont worry about the faults that show up on the dash, drive for about 50 yards and they will disappear. 

N.P