Hi all sorry to bother you am new to this site so.. but anyway only reason i joined this site is becuase after many years of wanting a vrs i finally bought one last week but its been in garage for half the week.! When i bought it it was perfectly fine except it had an oil leak which mechanic told me he cant sort out till i get car engine washed so i did for about half and hour the car was working fine then turned it of for like 2 min amd turned it back on it wouldnt start so revved it a bit and it struggled to start but started in the end.. but then now the coil light and eml has come on and the car has gone in to limp mode the mechanic said that it would be fine once he has fixed the oil leak he will reset the car with his computer and it will run fine so after he done the oil leak he tried this and the computwr wouldnt reset the lights and the car is still in limp mode now he is saying it may be the ecu that has been water damaged tbh imo i dont think the mechanic knows what he is doing any help any one please really desperate to get this sorted and very very upset! Was really looking forward to it. I aplogise for such a big paragrapgh many thanks. Bob

What are the fault codes?

Don't hand any money over til it's fixed but as above, get the fault codes

Not sure what the numbers are but been told egr valve boost pipe and couple others.. been told the ecu is knackered because car is running but in limp mode eml is on and the coil light is flashing

Mechanic is saying that its just the ecu that knackered because of the engine wash the water has gone in it

I'd take the car to another garage and get them to scan it again and request a copy of the logged fault codes.

I was thinking of just buyin a new ecu for the car as need it back on road asap..

Because car was working perfectly fine before engine wash so it may be that the ecu has been water damaged?

Because car was working perfectly fine before engine wash so it may be that the ecu has been water damaged?

The ECU is sealed to prevent water ingress but it can happen. A decent engine wash place would have known this and should have covered the ECU.

I still think it's unlikely to be the ECU though.

So what do you reckon is the problem?

Is you car in his garage or yours? Seems a bit mad to jetwash whole engine bay just to fix an oil leak, spray of brake cleaner around leaking area would have sufficed! Unless he is a mechanic who doesnt like getting his hands dirty lol. Where in manchester are you? Have tou used this garage before?

Is you car in his garage or yours? Seems a bit mad to jetwash whole engine bay just to fix an oil leak, spray of brake cleaner around leaking area would have sufficed! Unless he is a mechanic who doesnt like getting his hands dirty lol. Where in manchester are you? Have tou used this garage before?

Was thinking exactly the same.

Also, if it had an oil leak, why was the ecu 'pressure washed' anyway?

I had my car valeted with the instruction NOT TO JETWASH THE ENGINE BAY, yes they did and I had the same problems.

 

I had to take it to a VW indy, It turned out to be water in the Crankshaft Sensor connector, apparently they disconnected it (maybe at the ECU end, I don't know), blew it clear with an airline, a quick squirt of WD40, cleared the codes and all is well - Another £40 !

 

DB.

Am in rochdale mate, and its at mechanics garage. He is a local mehanic but people say he is a bit of a donkey at it. And mogwye yesterday he tried cleaning the ecu with spray and tried it again and it didnt work so now he is saying i need a new ecu..

i would just take your car away from his garage if i were you, buying random parts to hopefully fix an issue is madness, ive got vcds i don't mind coming scanning it for you, i work all week so would have to be a weekend or evening job.

Hi mate, funnily enough I'm going through the same issue. 

 

The fault codes I was getting are as follows:

 

17932 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Open or Short to Ground 
P1524 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18027 - Glow Plug Relay (J52): Open or Short to Ground 
P1619 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground 
P1549 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17849 - EGR Valve Open N18 Circuit or Short to Ground 
P1441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239): Open or Short to Ground 
P3105 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0 0 X X X

 

My ECU was at fault, had it 'repaired' but it's now got an unresponsive throttle pedal. So i'm ringing back tomorrow. 

 

Let me know how you get on.

 

Ben

Edited 2 March, 201412 yr by bensouthport

To add, I had it plugged into vcds, same fault codes, would delete them but would return after I'd driven it for a while or at slow speed/revs. It was only on occasion I could actually start it and get it going. vcds also struggles to connect with the ECU sometimes, again pointing to the fact it is a faulty ECU. I had the wiring checked by an auto electrican who said the wiring was all good, and he thought it could be something to do with the pins. 

Hi mate, funnily enough I'm going through the same issue.

The fault codes I was getting are as follows:

17932 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Open or Short to Ground [/size]P1524 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent[/size]18027 - Glow Plug Relay (J52): Open or Short to Ground [/size]P1619 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent[/size]17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground [/size]P1549 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent[/size]17849 - [/size]EGR Valve [/size]Open N18 Circuit or Short to Ground [/size]P1441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent[/size]19561 - Valve for [/size]Intake Manifold Flap[/size] [/size](N239): Open or Short to Ground [/size]P3105 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent[/size]Readiness: 0 0 X X X[/size]

My ECU was at fault, had it 'repaired' but it's not got an unresponsive throttle pedal. So i'm ringing back tomorrow. [/size]

Let me know how you get on.[/size]

Ben[/size]

If your pedal doesn't work now, they've soldered two lines of pins of the ecu. Speaking from experience!!

They're really close when the ecu is split, I sent mine away to be fixed and they'd done the same. Had to fix it myself in the end..

Oh really!? I'll let them though mate thanks very much. So that's clearly a mistake on their behalf?

This is really stressful lol im waiting for another mechanic to scan it and see what codes come up and i will update you.. but what can you do if all them codes come up? Will i have to fix every individual problem?

Not necessarily, some codes can be brought up because of a single issue..tracking down and fixing that one problem can fix more than one code.

 

A few members on here have the VCDS software ask around for someone to help out it should be a lot cheaper than paying a garage..i took mine to a skoda dealer who couldnt find any codes..i then plugged it in with mine and found 10...

As aaron said, the faults will usually come up due to something else being the cause. The ecu looks like its to blame but im still in lingo with it. I had the egr deleted and fuel pump relay replaced to see, yet the codes still came up.

New fault, P0234  - turbocharger wastegate solenoid. Deleted and no eml light remains, only airbag light.

 

Throttle now also works. I'd check the pins on the ecu, I cleaned mine and that worked. If you have the same fault codes as I listed earlier I'll point you in the right direction of what to do.

Thanks everyone i took it too a diagnostics guy and he put up all codes and said it may just be a sensor he said he will connect it proper to his computer and have a look tomoro thanks everyone

Thanks a lot everyone turned out to be just an earth wire problem costing me 150 to get fixed.. theres another problem now not major but could do with it gettin sorted power sterrrig is a bit stiff when turning corners like its not working..?