Felicia16v do you trust the eBay / VW bolts for big power (torque) and heavy handed driving?

They were ok on mine, stayed at the same torque etc, they are more like Dowells really , I did use studlock on them all. I think any of them are going to be better than those soft rivitts tho

Ah okay, sounds like a viable option for folks other than the three figures cost of an ARP bolt set.

 

I'm not as handy as yourself with working on a gearbox, so I went for the bombproof option.  Although it's more than likely that something else in the gearbox will break first.  

Check my for sale... Got a jabba one for sale

The for sale thread states you are keeping as it fits the new car :wonder:

ARP bolts = smoke and mirrors.

rob @ w8 price me a wavetrac lsd with everything i need for fitting please FN53 GXB Fabia VRS

rob @ w8 price me a wavetrac lsd with everything i need for fitting please FN53 GXB Fabia VRS

I had a quote yesterday.... £920 delivered

My peloquin came from USA.  You need to sort of add up the prices but my source got the diff for about $850 - shipping to USA contact $95 - shipping to UK about the same - so it came to about $1,200 once some duty had been paid.  Bonus is it came with absolutely everything to fit - all bolts and a shedload of shims (need to measure preload and use correct shims when fitting)

I hate this forum.

 

Up goes my build costs by 25% :P

ARP bolts = smoke and mirrors.

Care to elaborate?!

Care to elaborate?!

 

Sure, on the vast majority of european engines they are TOTALLY unnecessary because euro engines already use high quality high tensile bolts and fastenings. Aftermarket fitment of ARP fastenings to fit and forget road engines are an ostentation and a complete waste of money. Put 'em in your forum sig to make yourself look like cognoscenti, real engine builders use brand new OEM fasteners with a drop of loctite where necessary.

 

On yank and classic engines however they are useful because many period engines use chocolate fastenings with lock washers that simply won't cope with the extra power and RPM of a well tuned lump.

 

If you're going to be constantly pulling the head then re-usable studs make sense, however this is really only relevant on race engines that are constantly stripped and rebuilt.

Cheers cor the explanation.

The original diff is riveted in place I believe, so once drilled out it's easier to replace with arp bolts

The original diff is riveted in place I believe, so once drilled out it's easier to replace with arp bolts

 

This is the case with the diff yes, but with headbolts I also don't really see much point in using stud kits.

Cheers, Charlie

Oh yeah head bolts aren't needed

Can anyone recommend and LSD for a 5 speed 02J box ?

Wavetrac

What year is it as there is an 02J and 02JB

Rov

http://www.awesomegti.com/quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential-for-vag-02j-gearbox

http://www.autotech.com/product/wavetrac-differentials/10-309-180WK.html?fromcat=

This is the case with the diff yes, but with headbolts I also don't really see much point in using stud kits.

 

IIRC from my Cosworth days stud and nut kits offer more head clamping force,but using lower torque settings

Also they are re-useable, so on a highly tuned/powerful car they soon pay for there self if the heads removed a few times

 

 

IIRC from my Cosworth days stud and nut kits offer more head clamping force,but using lower torque settings

Also they are re-useable, so on a highly tuned/powerful car they soon pay for there self if the heads removed a few times

 

 

You're quite right, however full YB long stud conversions were mainly done to prevent deformation of the cylinder block in extremely high power applications as found in rallycross engines with well over 500bhp. Partial long-studding was sometimes done to improve the reliability of big boost road cars as well.

Sure, on the vast majority of european engines they are TOTALLY unnecessary because euro engines already use high quality high tensile bolts and fastenings. Aftermarket fitment of ARP fastenings to fit and forget road engines are an ostentation and a complete waste of money. Put 'em in your forum sig to make yourself look like cognoscenti, real engine builders use brand new OEM fasteners with a drop of loctite where necessary.

 

On yank and classic engines however they are useful because many period engines use chocolate fastenings with lock washers that simply won't cope with the extra power and RPM of a well tuned lump.

 

If you're going to be constantly pulling the head then re-usable studs make sense, however this is really only relevant on race engines that are constantly stripped and rebuilt.

 

 

seriously, what the **** has your opinion on 'uprated' head bolts got to do with replacing a differential?!?

 

not driven it for an absolute age but the Peloquin in my Ibiza was a giggle. until it just span up both wheels  :|

seriously, what the **** has your opinion on 'uprated' head bolts got to do with replacing a differential?!?

 

not driven it for an absolute age but the Peloquin in my Ibiza was a giggle. until it just span up both wheels  :|

 

Seriously, if you read the preceding post, I was directly asked the question.

 

Seriously what the **** has it got to do with you?

 

Seriously, when are you going to understand that when someone speaks from experience it isn't a ****ing opinion!

 

Seriously indeed.

lol