Well I've finally replaced all the bits i needed to get rid of the eml, and it's staying off now!

 

When i replaced the 02 sensor, that stopped my cold start problems, and that fault stopped showing up.

 

That lasted about a month, now my cold start problems are re-occuring, where it takes about 3 or 4 attempts to fire her up.... and there aren't any faults coming up.

 

What am I missing??  :think:

 

The guide holder for the dipstick has snapped off when i replaced the thermostat, and it's just resting there with a gap, could this cause anything?

 

cheers

 

 

 

 

The guide holder for the dipstick has snapped off when i replaced the thermostat, and it's just resting there with a gap, could this cause anything?

 

cheers

 

 

Yeah vacuum leak, which might effect cold start but not something I would have thought to be honest.

i had a thought it might be something like that, i've seen one on ebay for like £4 so i shall order it! Also there's a bit of oil splashing out I've noticed. It's a bit black around the crack. Cheers

Personally I would not have thought a cracked pipe would cause cold start issues.

 

You either have a duff temp sensor again(i have bought a few brand new ones for folks that were duff so it does happen)

 

Also possibly your crank sensor

hmm i wouldn't have thought the temp sensor would go as it's a brand new OEM one, so that would be a weird one!

 

If I'm honest though, it's only been doing it since the dipstick tube snapped off.... so it could be that? I'll replace that first then i'll know if it's that or the temp sensor (again)

Id be surprised too if it was the dipstick tube.

i'll let yas know the script when i replace it!

 

on that note, a lot of people didn't think that a failed stat would throw a fault code, but ever since i replaced it last week, the fault code that was coming up has stayed away since!

hmm i wouldn't have thought the temp sensor would go as it's a brand new OEM one, so that would be a weird one!

 

You'd like to think that a brand-new OEM part would be fine...and usually they are.

 

However - if I might pass on one bit of advice that I have learned, from over 25 years of spannering all kinds of cars and motorbikes?

 

It is this: never assume anything! I've been caught out more than a few times by assuming that 'oh, nah - it can't be this / that part, it's brand new...' and then found out, after a lot of wasted time, that it was indeed this / that part!

 

I've had what I would describe as an 'annoying' amount of brand-new but faulty parts over the years - sensors and spark plugs mostly. And I have to say - Bosch have been the worst offenders.

 

 

Anyway - never take a brand-new part as a gospel, perfectly working item, ok?!

Haha i shall take your advice in that one!

I'll order another coolant sensor and i shall see what it's like then

Rather than just ordering a new one, why not check it first? Get someone with VCDS to have a look and see what its reading

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It's still a good idea to replace the tube though. Oil does leak out the gap and if left unattended, will do some damage to your outbound levels. Seriously cheap fix too!

Rather than just ordering a new one, why not check it first? Get someone with VCDS to have a look and see what its reading

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i've probably mentioned this before, but i live on an island in the north west of scotland, where nobody has VCDS haha!

I do have Torque Pro though, i can run a log on that?

It's still a good idea to replace the tube though. Oil does leak out the gap and if left unattended, will do some damage to your outbound levels. Seriously cheap fix too!

yeah i thought it would need replacing rather than later! I'll tape it on for the time being, as it's a clean snap, no bits came off it!

The end bit that's still attached is a nightmare to get off! I had to do it on my gti and vrs... Lots of grazed knuckles and plenty swearing! But needs must!

Haha oh great... won't be the first time i get grazed knuckles...or the last!!

Perseverance mate, goes a long way! It's not difficult, just annoying!

Haha the usual then! Never really a difficult job, just very annoying and niggly!

those dipstick tubes are a nightmare, they get a bit brittle from the constant heating and cooling cycles, they are only about £8 from the skoda dealer if i recall. having a vaccuum leak is going to cause a few minor running issues, it affects the idle speed and the fuel pressure amongst other things but it's not likely to cause it to not start on the key

Yeah heard about them being awkward, can't be as awkward as changing the thermostat! Moved the alternator in the end and that was tight on and took a lot of cursing and grazed knuckles!!

Oh well i'll get to the bottom of the problem eventually!

i've probably mentioned this before, but i live on an island in the north west of scotland, where nobody has VCDS haha!

I do have Torque Pro though, i can run a log on that?

Yep, torque app is very good. See what the coolant temp sensor is reading. Spending half hour watching data and recording logs is better than changing parts Willy nilly

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Last timei had my phone connected to the car, it was showing everything you'd expect working in order, even the MAF was showing a reading and i haven't replaced it! What kind if values are expected off the MAF anyway, while i'm on the subject! I was getting minimum of 3.5 whilst idling.