hi, 

 

Ive tried looking on this forum elsewhere but not found the answer im really looking for.

my last minor service pointed out an 'amber' alert for disc brake wear back in feb this year (think it was at 6mm)

got my MOT this weekend and i havent got round to replacing the discs.

 

in the event that i need new discs, has anyone got any recommendations for where to get/what to get?

would rather get OEM or maybe a better spec???

 

i will be checking the condition/thickness before the MOT rather than wait to see if they are too low/fail.

 

been looking on Ebay, but dont recognise most of the brands (other than the expensive brembos).

 

Mintex are listed, but dont know what they are like.

 

are discs and pads easily replaced on the Fabia? i've done it on other cars (Micra/Pug 306), but this is the most modern car i've owned (2010)!!

 

any info/advice appreciated

 

oh and i cant afford to get it done in a garage - got the car tax due plus Motorbike MOT due soon too!

Are you planning on changing brake pads AND discs or just pads?

 

I ask because when last I got a car (not a Fabia) MOT'd I was told that I had to have the front ventilated discs replaced.  I had a look at them and they seemed to me to have absolutely loads of metal left.  The guy at the test centre measured the thickness of the discs with a micrometer and then showed me a supplier document which confirmed that they were out of spec.  His explanation was that it was connected with heat dissipation but I still felt that I was being ripped off.

 

I ended up having the discs and pads replaced - I was not at all happy.

Mintex are fine !

 

If you are changing them yourselves its very straight forward if you have mechanical knowledge and the right tools. There are some videos on you tube that are similar  such as this 

 

IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT AND DON'T HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS KNOWLEDGE OR SAFETY EQUIPMENT THEN DON'T BOTHER

when moving the pistons back out to make way for new pads, do i need to look out for the reservoir over spilling? or does taking the cap off ust mean you can push them back to allow for the new pads?

also, doe fabias need a tool to wind the pistons back in or is it as this video suggests? looks like i could use my home made headset press tool in reverse to push the pistons back in a bit.....

when moving the pistons back out to make way for new pads, do i need to look out for the reservoir over spilling? or does taking the cap off ust mean you can push them back to allow for the new pads?

also, doe fabias need a tool to wind the pistons back in or is it as this video suggests? looks like i could use my home made headset press tool in reverse to push the pistons back in a bit.....

 

leave the reservoir lid off to push the piston back. Do you have a G-clamp?

Take the fluid reservoir cover off and put some rag around it to collect any spill.

You can improvise a clamp to move the piston back,a G clamp is good....whatever you use be careful to push evenly and not just on one side.

XK140 is spot-on!!

roger that. similar principle to pistons on a bicycles hydraulic brake (although on a larger scale - so probably easier to end up pushing more on one side i imagine).

I have a g-clamp, but also have a tool that would make it easier to apply the force more evenly.

A G clamp with a bit of wood which bridges the edges of the piston and thus ensures an even clamping force....Simple. 

Pushing the old pads back before removing them is always a help.

nice tips chaps thanks - will save me over £100 if i can do it myself

about to buy a set - but do i need to double check the size? for a 1.2 fabia 2010 its coming up with 256mm diamter....

It would be best to go and measure the discs on your car.

 

Have you not had the wheels off to look at the Pads & Discs?

http://livingstonautoparts.co.uk

not yet - just been doing the old - finger through the wheel hole to feel the disc edge :P

will whip them off one evening this week and check

Changed mine before an MOT a month ago.  Bought genuine Skoda parts - they did take a fair bit of bedding in (I didn't clear off the layer of stuff on them though) before I felt they were properly stopping - worth considering if you're going to do them straight before an MOT - make sure you have time to get them bedded.

 

Have had a car fail in the past as they weren't stopping enough, and because the balance was off (as one side was taking longer to bed in than the other - was an old old Citroen AX mind you).

 

Nice easy job on the Fabia though - only hitch was needing a rubber mallet to free up the discs, as they can bond to the hub easily.

jme808

Would normally change AFTER MOT because braking efficiency better on worn discs/pads (as long as not down to the metal). As you say, takes a little while to bed in new ones.

To remove the protective film on discs you could use petrol, meths or even buy a tin of brake cleaner. Can use on new clutch covers as well.

the discs passed the MOT anyway - just, i think.

but still need replacing before they wear down completely.

do i need a torx bit for the calipers to be released or is it just a socket set job?

i have a rubber mallet ad wil get some copper slip to slap on to the new ones.

noted on the meths/disc brake cleaner tip. will keep this in mind.

Don't start the job by topping up the reservoir.

Stating the f...ing obvious, but you'd be surprised . . 

jme808

Would normally change AFTER MOT because braking efficiency better on worn discs/pads (as long as not down to the metal). As you say, takes a little while to bed in new ones.

To remove the protective film on discs you could use petrol, meths or even buy a tin of brake cleaner. Can use on new clutch covers as well.

 

They wouldn't have passed - had a few weeks and I normally drive around 500 per week so had plenty of time to bed them in.  The AX really wouldn't have passed - metal on metal for a few weeks (not my car).

 

My discs required a small torx (25 at a guess) to get the disc off - apart from that it's allen keys to get the caliper apart.

DBA Australia make a great range of OEM stock and OEM slotted discs which are sold around the world.

 

Example: Brought a demo VRS with 5,000km and disc rotors wrapped already. Fast forward 10,000km and 3 track days later and my DBA disc rotors are still straight (100 grams lighter new) and will be out lastly the pads easily.

right, i measured the discs, which come up as 256mm.

ive just discovered i'll need to know if they have the metal clips on the back or any attachments for wear sensors.

pretty sure they dont have wear indicators, but whats with the metal prongs on the back?

 

list of the variants here:

 

http://www.livingstonautoparts.co.uk/brakes/Brake-Pads/Skoda/Fabia/all/1.2/2010/Parts.aspx

metal prongs are most likely locator clips or anti rattle clips. i replaced mine from eurocarparts but carparts4less use the same stock and can often be cheaper so look at both. you may need a brake calliper removal tool but they are only about 7 quid and will fit many vag cars, if you get the right size. if you do not need the sensors, you just cut them off so don't worry about that.

brake caliper removal tool is a 7mm allen key/socket

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 Hi, I am new the forum. Nice to be here.

 

Just serviced my Fabia and checked the pad which will need to be changed by the end of the summer. Different Fabias have different calipers which appear to take two different size brakes and rotors. I have FS III calipers on my front wheels and haven't been able to identify the precise size of mine. My local supplier couldn't tell me which size pad I need, so I tried to dismantle and and measure - also makes for good practice.

 

I'm having trouble getting the calipers dismounted: I don't have removable locator clips, rather the prongs that are attached to the pads themselves. I was wondering if it is okay to bend these 3 prongs inward to facilitate caliper removal, bearing in mind that I will be keep the same pads and the prongs won't fit tightly when bent back into place.

 

 

Is the caliper removal tool as mentioned above by mrgf needed to get these calipers off when dealing with prongs, not clips? I don't imagine so, but don't want to end up with brakes not working at 100%

 

Thanks in advance!