KU57 MLZ - Injector issues I think, No fault codes. Misfire/hesitation and Intermittent smoke. (Pic Heavy)

[amk2vr6]

Looking at the tech doc: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_316.pdf

 

It says:

 

In emergency running mode:

- Engine speed is limited to between 3200 rpm and 3500 rpm

- Quantity of injection is restricted

- Starting takes slightly longer

 

Funnily enough a couple of times the revs have been limited to 3200rpm ish.

 

And it also mentions that cylinder 3 is used to work out TDC in order to work out where the rocker arm is in relation to the crank. Cylinder 3 is the suspect cylinder here!

Edited 5 May, 2014 by amk2vr6

[jjc]

Not sure this will help, but I had a fault on mine that was diagnosed to the speed sensor, this was changed but made no difference. They then found that the loom that connects to the sensor goes round a sharp bend in the engine bay and with the rocking of the engine had chaffed through the loom causing an intermittent  problem. Not sure where this bend is but that was the problem.

 

John

[amk2vr6]

Not sure this will help, but I had a fault on mine that was diagnosed to the speed sensor, this was changed but made no difference. They then found that the loom that connects to the sensor goes round a sharp bend in the engine bay and with the rocking of the engine had chaffed through the loom causing an intermittent  problem. Not sure where this bend is but that was the problem.

 

John

 

Thanks for the input. Can I ask what where your symptoms?

[jjc]

slight misfire at idle, then not starting properly to would not idle to CEL and Glow lights. 

 

John

[amk2vr6]

slight misfire at idle, then not starting properly to would not idle to CEL and Glow lights. 

 

John

 

Similar but not the same as my symptoms. I will have a look at the loom, and see if there is some way to check the Crank Sensor too.

[amk2vr6]

Low pressure pump diagnosis is very straightforward, take out fuel pump fuse, run multimeter in series switched to amps, looking for around 7 Amps of draw constant. Low draw, faulty wiring, pump impeller broken, low fuel level. High draw, seized pump, short circuit in wiring

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Well, I took a reading from the fuel pump fuse...

 

 

 

4.46A / 4.47A at idle constantly. What does this tell me then?

 

I have noticed you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on. I thought they were normally pretty much silent?

 

 

............................................................................................................................................................................................................................

 

Values are still coming in and out.

 

 

And what I've noticed and you can almost see in the following video is the interior lights and dash lights dim when you prod the throttle. I thought that was a bit strange.

 

 

You can also see the injector values coming in and out. Sometimes injector 3 is OK.

Edited 5 May, 2014 by amk2vr6

[Turbobell]

That pump draw seems ok and the fact that it is steady is good as an intermittent misfire would mean the pump draw would be all over the place for that to be the cause....

The most crude and simple way of ruling out the maf sensor is disconnect and drive it, see if the symptoms go. This forces the engine to run in a fail safe or worst case scenario. Which is far better than a fluctuating maf input.

I do think the issue here is crank sensor circuit. Be it the sensor or wiring harness. They aren't a nice job at all though, so take time doing it and follow the bulletin regards fitting and timing if you can get it. Not a job I've ever enjoyed. Don't do it twice [emoji58]

I hope I've been a help, kudos for doing it in a logical process bud.

Dale

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[amk2vr6]

That pump draw seems ok and the fact that it is steady is good as an intermittent misfire would mean the pump draw would be all over the place for that to be the cause....

The most crude and simple way of ruling out the maf sensor is disconnect and drive it, see if the symptoms go. This forces the engine to run in a fail safe or worst case scenario. Which is far better than a fluctuating maf input.

I do think the issue here is crank sensor circuit. Be it the sensor or wiring harness. They aren't a nice job at all though, so take time doing it and follow the bulletin regards fitting and timing if you can get it. Not a job I've ever enjoyed. Don't do it twice [emoji58]

I hope I've been a help, kudos for doing it in a logical process bud.

Dale

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Thanks mate.

 

I promised myself I wouldn't throw money at this without knowing whats up. I've done that so many times in the past.

 

Where is the bulletin, do you have a link? Is it a VW issued TSB? Hope I can get to it without taking the box off, and it is the sensor not the sender ring!!!!

 

Quite strange it hasn't thrown a code, and the RPM reading never fluctuates either. 

Edited 5 May, 2014 by amk2vr6

[Turbobell]

There are fitting instructions on elsa. I don't have access to them currently so can't help there I'm afraid. You will need to remove box to do the job properly mate I'm afraid. I would look at changing the sender ring at the same time if I'm honest buddy.

It is strange but the symptoms all point towards it, plus the man hours you have spent ruling the other stuff out, try the maf just on the off chance but then look to change sender and sensor next.

Dale

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[amk2vr6]

There are fitting instructions on elsa. I don't have access to them currently so can't help there I'm afraid. You will need to remove box to do the job properly mate I'm afraid. I would look at changing the sender ring at the same time if I'm honest buddy.

It is strange but the symptoms all point towards it, plus the man hours you have spent ruling the other stuff out, try the maf just on the off chance but then look to change sender and sensor next.

Dale

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****ing Mission! lol. Looks like Ill be renting a ramp. Dont mind doing 5 speeds on my back, but nothing 6 speed or DSG!

 

I think I will change the sensor first... from research it isn't that hard to do once you move the oil cooler.

[Turbobell]

The reason I say do both, sometimes a faulty crank seal can cause soiling on the sender ring, which can also contribute to the rough running you're experiencing, see what the old sensor looks like when you remove it, post a pic of how it comes out if you can mate,

Dale

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[flat-eric]

Dunno if this has been covered previously, but where was the map done? as I have been given lots of horror stories from back street garages regarding dodgy maps and dpf's.

 

Mines a 2007 PD vrs and i'm on in corby if you need anything for comparison

 

Rob

[amk2vr6]

Dunno if this has been covered previously, but where was the map done? as I have been given lots of horror stories from back street garages regarding dodgy maps and dpf's.

 

Mines a 2007 PD vrs and i'm on in corby if you need anything for comparison

 

Rob

 

Thanks mate.

 

I did think that the map might be the problem. Can you see the pics of the DPF delete pipe, it looks a bit of a homebrew, so could be a homebrew map too that's not taken into account engine wear or fuel differences or god knows what else!!

 

Would be nice to have the cars side by side and compare bits. ECU would be my first thing to swap but it isn't possible due to immobiliser. Don't know what else unless you just want to give me your engine to rule out compression problems? Haha

No in all seriousness if you want to come over and have a look/help I will pay your fuel and sort you beer money and tea/coffee and food?

[amk2vr6]

£55.38 for crank sensor from TPS.

 

Not A massive amount but I don't want to spend money if it isn't going to solve it. I've wasted no end in the past troubleshooting problems using the fit and hope method and promised myself I wouldn't do that with this car.

 

Anyone know how to test it? I've got No fault codes for it, even when it cut out and wouldn't restart.

[amk2vr6]

Also, just a quick thought. What boost pressure should the car be requesting if it has been remapped?

Mine is asking for 2500mBar, so minus atmospheric pressure actually 1.5bar. That's 21.7psi which is an awful lot! My old Audi S4 only used to pull about 18psi!!

 

Can anyone have a look themselves and compare to my log on the previous page?

 

Thanks

[chris4500uk]

Out of interest, have you checked the inlet manifold flaps? I had problems lower down the rev range and also intermittent cut outs. Turned out to be a hole in the vacuum diaphragm that controls the inlet manifold flaps.

[amk2vr6]

Out of interest, have you checked the inlet manifold flaps? I had problems lower down the rev range and also intermittent cut outs. Turned out to be a hole in the vacuum diaphragm that controls the inlet manifold flaps.

 

Funnily enough yes, and it looked a bit suspect!

 

The Actuator holds vacuum no problem, but the flap itself had a bit of play in it side to side. And cylinders 3+4 have a little nick off the bottom of them. Quite hard to explain. I think I have some pics, give me a sec.

[amk2vr6]

Here is a Video of the play at the end of the shaft

 

 

Just noticed watching it back that my 3 year old says "Me do fixing" I replied "You fixing?", to which he says "Yeah, Starts Now" haha. Didn't hear him say that before.

 

And here is what I mean by the nick's missing out of cylinder 3 + 4 on the ports -

 

 

 

In fact you can just about see it in the video above too.

 

 

[chris4500uk]

I can't remember now but I'm sure I had a little bit of play. But my main issue was the diaphragm, which had a hole, this kept half the ports shut. 

 

You can test this by getting someone to rev the car while to keep an eye on the diaphragm. If it doesn't move then its most probably goosed.

 

Could be totally unrelated mind!

[amk2vr6]

I can't remember now but I'm sure I had a little bit of play. But my main issue was the diaphragm, which had a hole, this kept half the ports shut. 

 

You can test this by getting someone to rev the car while to keep an eye on the diaphragm. If it doesn't move then its most probably goosed.

 

Could be totally unrelated mind!

 

Lol. Probably is knowing my luck. No way its that simple!!

 

If you watch the video the butterfly valves are sprung open, so just removing the vacuum hose would keep all of the ports open.

However, I'm not sure at what revs the valves open and close, do you know? This could be why it judders between 2-3k revs?

[amk2vr6]

The white smoke that comes and goes is unburnt diesel and so is the strong eye watering smell. It only comes and goes though.

 

Surely this is lack of compression to not combust the fuel fully?

[flat-eric]

I'm following this with great interest, just to saticfy my curiosity more than anything!

[amk2vr6]

I'm following this with great interest, just to saticfy my curiosity more than anything!

 

Thats because you've got a PD yourself and will know what to expect in future :P haha

[amk2vr6]

Just out of interest mate, is yours lumpy at idle at all? Do you have VCDS?

[amk2vr6]

****!

 

I've ****ed around with the privacy settings on photobucket and it has ruined all of the links to Images!!!