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A simple coilpack/spark plug question

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In order to get to them, do you first disconnect the cable and then pull up the coilpack with your special tool or vice versa?

If I try to first disconnect the cable I find there is just no free space behind the connector for it go and if try to first pull the coilpack up, I have to apply so much pulling force that I am sure once it gets freed it will rip out the connected cables on its way up, so I stop right there. So, what is the safest way to proceed here?

Just done this recently, you need to pull the coil packs out first before you can remove the cables that are plugged into them. Easiest is to use a proper coil pack removal tool (has small L shaped lugs that fit nicely underneath the coil) but I didn't have time to order one so made up a temporary tool from a sturdy wire coat hanger. As long as you can fashion something together it will make life easier, not neccesarily completely easy, but it will help. 

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You know I have the proper coil pack removal tool from Awesome GTI but it still looks as it won't move one bit! I was sure If I continued pulling I would rip the cables! Does it have anything to do with where you start? I thought I would start from the easiest one: the furthest to the right, and then get to the hard one which is below some pipes but it didn't make any change. None of them seemed willing to come up....

 

When and if I ever succeed, should I apply some grease on the plugs threads for easier future replacement or would I risk over-tightening? They shouldn't need too much torque anyway I reckon.

newbie69, are you talking about grease on the spark plug threads into the cylinder head? If so, no,no,no!

Just torque to the specified amount, that compresses the copper washer and is correct. Grease on the threads could cause plug to come loose, don't do it.

+1 on what awfabia says. Also, if you did that, and depending what grease you were to put on the plug threads, you often find that if they don't work loose, they actually seize in the head due to the grease becoming too hot and carbonising. Dry is best and they won't come to any harm as long as you tighten to the correct torque.

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Ok pretty clear then, I will just put the new plugs in. I finally got to them today but the plug removal wrench's outside diameter was too big to fit inside the cylinder although the interior hex head socket was the right one for the spark plugs, grrr!

 

I wondered whether any grease was needed in general as I had read the official instructions on how to do this through ELSAWin:

 

When installing new spark plugs, the ignition coils must be regreased with lubricating paste - G 052 141 A2-. In doing so, the sealing hose of the ignition coil does not “stick” to the spark plug. The lubricating paste must spread over the spark plug when fitting on the ignition coil

Yes, it is good to use the CORRECT lubricant on the ceramic part of the plug to facilitate easy removal as the rubber inside the coil pack can stick to the plug. This is especially so on Fabias which have plug leads without coil packs.

Not sure of the name of the correct grease but think Ford dealers have it. This is not so much of a problem on coil pack type engines but once you have a tube of special grease, you may as well use it.

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