How did you get on with the filter?  I can't see anything under mine.

Haven't done the filter this time.

 

But I can see where it is - it's on the opposite side of the Haldex to the drain/fill bolts, towards the front of the car. There's a small metal cover held on with 2 bolts.

I posted this link to a Self Study Guide for the Haldex 4 in a related thread. It includes mention that the oil filter is a no-maintenance fleece filter. The guide is well worth downloading and reading.

http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11383/tiguan_haldex_gen4.pdf

Interesting, but I doubt mine has ever been 'activated'.........it's an 'age' thing.

I posted this link to a Self Study Guide for the Haldex 4 in a related thread. It includes mention that the oil filter is a no-maintenance fleece filter. The guide is well worth downloading and reading.

http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11383/tiguan_haldex_gen4.pdf

Think that's my lunchtime sorted

 

Thanks.

Is the Haldex unit & rear diff combined - IE they share the same oil, or is the oil for both kept separate ?

 

As said no, two seperae oil baths in one casing.

But you'd be surprised how many people mess this up.

Dealers do see cars where the diff has been filled with haldex fluid, Haldex with diff fluid etc...

 

So anyone must make sure they know what they are doing before starting and correctly identify the two fill holes and two drain holes.

 

If you blow the rear diff it quite often cracks the casing.

A new one (whole haldex/diff unit and casing) is £3,200 from Skoda... plus fitting. :peek:

But you'd be surprised how many people mess this up.

Dealers do see cars where the diff has been filled with haldex fluid, Haldex with diff fluid etc...

Yes, I've read on other forums where garages get it wrong...!

 

One of the reasons I like to do things myself; I know it's been done properly.

I posted this link to a Self Study Guide for the Haldex 4 in a related thread. It includes mention that the oil filter is a no-maintenance fleece filter. The guide is well worth downloading and reading.

http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11383/tiguan_haldex_gen4.pdf

 

Interestingly, I noticed this in the self study guide:

 

Because a small amount of pressure is applied through the spring plate, a speed of 31 mph (50 km/h) and a distance of 31 miles (50 km) may not be exceeded when towing with one axle raised.

 

This seems to suggest running a 4wd Yeti on a 2wd dyno, with the Haldex fuse out, is not a good idea....but I suspect a number of tuners do this.

Essentially the clutch pack always has a small amount of pressure on it, so presumably if you do a dyno run on a 2wd dyno, where front wheel speeds would be in the 100mph ballpark while the rears are static, you're going to be burning the clutch plates pretty badly ?

When I had my 2002 Octavia 1.8T 4X4 (Haldex 1) custom remapped by Jabbasoprt, it was done with the car on their 4WD dyno. I believe that other tuners at that time remapped on 2WD dynos after pulling the fuse.

Yes, 4x4 dyno only!

So if I get mine 'chipped', or whatever they call it now, does it get dyno'd automatically or is that different?

Dyno'd is when they put the car on a set of rollers (a dynamometer) and measure the power at the wheels. 

Not all "tuners" have them.

Some do and don't know how to use them properly!

Thanks Graham, I don't want anyone fiddling with mine anymore than necessary.

So if I get mine 'chipped', or whatever they call it now, does it get dyno'd automatically or is that different?

 

If you get a standard car mapped/chipped it's usually just a generic bit of software for that engine.

So they won't typically put it on a rolling road unless you ask and pay them to.

 

The more customised software typically is needed as you make other upgrades (exhaust, air intake) to allow for them.

Is is where putting the car on a set of rollers is more useful.

I wondering if the Haldex is able to cope with consistent 4WD use or would that result in regular o'haul at great expense of course?

Is it too fragile for regular 4WDriving?

I wondering if the Haldex is able to cope with consistent 4WD use or would that result in regular o'haul at great expense of course?

Is it too fragile for regular 4WDriving?

 

Given that the Haldex is permanently active, even though putting only a small percentage of torque to the rear wheels unless the electronics tell it otherwise, I'd say that's unlikely to be the case.  If you're thinking of the problem that muddyboots alluded to, that's basically about not letting the Haldex do its job properly/at all ie running with the front wheels on rollers and the rear wheels unable to turn.

 

If by "regular 4WDriving" you mean something that will be happy mud-plugging on difficult terrain most of its life then yes, you would very likely be better off going for something with a more traditional 4WD system, low ratios, diff locks etc.  But then maintenance costs for such vehicles don't tend to be all that low either - unless you do it yourself, which the more "rugged" (or "agricultural") mechanics can sometimes make easier. For a fair comparison, though, you should still really factor in the cost of your own time - unless the thing is really just your hobby rather than your 'daily driver'.

 

Bottom line IMO is  that the Yeti 4x4 is a road-oriented vehicle with four-wheel drive capability and is able to deliver a respectable performance in occasional off-road use - ie with a bit of care and common sense you should be able to avoid getting irredeemably stuck.  It's not designed to spend the majority of its time off metalled (not necessarily tarmaced) roads or away from anything recognizably a road at all, but with a sensitive driver (and within the limits of its geometry) it can handle surprisingly rough terrain from time to time.

Thanks for that stubbsy(?)

It's what I suspected, light duty.

I am looking forward to a gravel road to experience the sense of rear assistance :-))

I would make a further comment to ejstubbs' posting.

Whilst probably correct I think he may be thinking about the conditions found in the UK generally, where going "off tarmac" often results in going into the gloop of mud and loose surfaces. However in much of the world, from Norway to Australia, France to Greece, many roads comprise of a very hard packed stone surface that can be almost as good as our poor tarmac. In those situations I doubt the Haldex will be troubled at all.

.....whereas in Vic High Country we have to deal with nasty rock 'ledges'.

Whilst probably correct I think he may be thinking about the conditions found in the UK generally, where going "off tarmac" often results in going into the gloop of mud and loose surfaces.

 

Nope.  I used the phrase "metalled (not necessarily tarmaced) roads" deliberately to include hard-packed stone and gravel road surfaces.  It's my understanding that "metalling" does not necessarily have to mean tarmac.  I cite http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Road_surface#Gravel_surface in my defense!

 

in much of the world...many roads comprise of a very hard packed stone surface that can be almost as good as our poor tarmac. In those situations I doubt the Haldex will be troubled at all.

 

I agree.

 

This reminds me of a friendly encounter I had on my way back from a Munro-bagging trip a few weeks ago with the Scottish Landrover Owners Group, at the top of a track in the hills behind Crianlarich (specifically, at grid reference NN427207).  I didn't like to tell them that I could have driven my Mum's old Ford Fiesta Popular that she bought in the 1970s up that track!

Interesting article about the Haldex:

 

http://www.carthrottle.com/how-the-clever-haldex-clutch-transforms-the-humble-yeti-into-an-offroad-specialist/

 

I agree with this: "Transforms The Humble Yeti Into An Off-Road Specialist"

Interesting article, but not very technically accurate though.

 

"...faced with a 60 per cent decline, the Yeti’s Haldex system controlled each wheel without any brake or throttle input"

and

"...the Yeti’s independently controlled wheels working wonders with power being adjusted at each corner"

 

I'd say that's more to do with the fancy stability control / braking system, controlling speed downhill and acting as an electronic diff lock when needed.

I agree, 'off road ability' is basically increased ground clearance tacked on to the stability programme.

It's cheap and a selling point, particularly to the 'alpha' male in us.

I NEED to drive up that river/waterfall thing!!!!

I agree, 'off road ability' is basically increased ground clearance tacked on to the stability programme.

It's cheap and a selling point, particularly to the 'alpha' male in us.

 

It is a lot more than that, as I know from experience!

It is a lot more than that, as I know from experience!

Stab is the electronic basis of the light duty AWD from my perspective but there are so many variables between specific vehicles it can't be really nailed down IMO.