Scout 2007 Haldex 4x4 Contol Unit fault

[FB011964]

Just a thought........

 

If I disconnect, clean, spray Servisol and reconnect any connectors do I need to disconnect the battery and will I need to get another scan to have the fault codes cleared before I know if the connector "jiggle" has worked?? (I posted this in another thread by accident yesterday so no wonder I didn't get a response  ) 

 

I couldn't get any access to the Haldex control module today even with the Scout 4x4 ground clearance. I needed to get a trolley jack and some axle stands and wheel chocks before getting underneath. As much as I admire the larger female, I wouldn't want this "fat lady" on top of me....no sir!!

They will come in handy when I need the wheels off to clean anyways, and any other vehicle DIY I may undertake.

[RainbowFire]

IMHO it's always best to have all codes cleared after doing any work. Most faults will stay logged until cleared, some will extinguish the light, but still keep a fault logged. If they're all cleared after you've done work, you know exactly where you're stating from, otherwise you could end up chasing hosts.

[fj1200a]

I have a 1.9tdi 4x4 with the same set up as the op - when I bought the car two years ago the previous owner commented on how he had just spent over £980 for a Haldex controller to be fitted by the local Skoda dealer when his esp light came on. However it transpired it was not the controller but the Teves unit, the dealer spun him a story that the two were connected so he needed to spend another £600 on the full abs block. Understandably he was seriously peed off and found a local mechanic who has proper engineering skills and understanding who confirmed it was an issue with the abs pump, fitted the repair kit for £300 and the car has been great since. To add insult to injury the Skoda dealer had serviced the car from new and when I bought it at 80k they had never done a Haldex oil change even though they had serviced 5 times.

[RainbowFire]

Gentlemen of Haldex knowledge.....

 

I know this might sound like a daft question (and you know how much I like asking the daft ones): is a Haldex 2 controller a Haldex 2 controller, or are there different ones for different manufacturers?

 

I ask because:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-HALDEX-CONTROL-UNIT-LR007757-/261509288428

....seems a much better price than £1k

[DGW]

I can't find the reference right now, but I have read that manufacturers can tune the Haldex ECU to their particular requirements. I doubt that the eBay ECU is suitable other than for specified versions of the Freelander 2.

[FB011964]

Hello all,

 

Latest update:

Today I finally managed to get the Scout jacked up and blocks under the nearside rear wheel to allow sufficient access/clearance to get a close look at the Haldex Gen II 4x4 Control Module (J492) and associated connector.

 

Here is a pic I took which may assist in what I am talking about: 

 

 

Unfortunately it looks and feels as though the CM needs to be removed before the connector can be unplugged/disconnected from the back, as there appears to be such limited clearance before the connector hits something solid. Feeling around at the back where the connector is, there isn't much room at all.

 

If there are any Skoda/VAG techs on here who could maybe advise if this is the case, i.e. the J492 Haldex 4x4 Control Module does need to be unbolted first before the connector can be removed/inspected it would be a great help.

I guess it would make sense to then give a clear view of the condition of the connector on the back of the J492, as well as a view of the connector on the end of the cable.

[DGW]

James I, who contributed earlier in this thread, may be able to offer advice.

Alternatively, have a look at the second photo in the thread below.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f97/haldex-upgrade-controller-installation-guide-oil-change-96297.html

[RainbowFire]

Er..............

 

Denis, did you forget something? ;)

[DGW]

Nope.

[FB011964]

James I, who contributed earlier in this thread, may be able to offer advice.

Alternatively, have a look at the second photo in the thread below.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f97/haldex-upgrade-controller-installation-guide-oil-change-96297.html

Thanks Denis I appreciate your input,

 

But as I explained in my previous entry, on my vehicle there is very little room above and behind the unit (for me) to gain adequate access to 1. See the connectors directly, 2. Get a screwdriver behind there to unlatch without damaging anything, 3. Seeing the condition of the connectors in the back of the J492 CM once connectors are off.

I'm sure maybe it would be an easier job if the vehicle was 6' off the ground.

 

In your link it looks like it would not be a case of taking the J492 off and putting it back on again and would need oil top up, possible new seals on the solenoid etc.

 

This is why I was asking for a Skoda/VAG tech to give input on the actual requirements, as in what do they do in the garage to look at/check/clean the Haldex/cable connectors before changing the Haldex CM.

 

I have until Tuesday first thing as that's when I am back at the dealer to discuss with the Skoda tech/book it in.

[DGW]

Please let us know how you get on with resolving your Haldex problem.

[DGW]

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/142194-haldex-not-working-no-communication-etc-look-inside.html

[RainbowFire]

There's a lo of mention about broken earth straps in there, as well as the dodgy connector.

[FB011964]

Yes based on the content of Denis' link I am frantically looking for wiring diagrams and 2007 Octavia Scout Haldex Gen II earth straps to determine if mine actually has one.

I think there are 2 connector slots on the rear of the J492 CM so I am guessing one must be the earth. Only thing is I only managed to see one cable on that side as per my photo in post #31 above.

 

 As per the post Denis made there appear to be some VAG vehicles that do have the earth strap and some that don't (maybe they fell off or maybe they are earthed some other way).

 

Before I look stupid tomorrow and request the Skoda tech to check the earth strap and also the connectors and change if corroded then retest the 4x4 operation and TCS/ESP has extinguished, BEFORE changing the J492 Haldex CM, is there anyone who can confirm 100% that the Skoda Octavia Scout 2.0TDi PD140 DPF 2007 (July) has an earth strap ???

[DGW]

After a bit of research I have found out that the control unit does not need to be removed to separate the 2 connections.  The sequence for removing the control unit is:

 

Switch off ignition

Separate the 2 plug connections at the top of the control unit

Place catch can under final drive

Release the 2 screws on the control unit

- Ensure that no parts fall down when removing the control unit

Carefully remove the control unit...

 

There is more information on removing a valve, pressure sensor and gasket which need to be done next.

 

As far as I can ascertain one connector is 2-pin and the other 8-pin.  The 2-pin connects to the Haldex  coupling pump.

 

 

You can get detailed workshop information specifically for your car if you buy an hour or 24 hours access to ERWIN.

.

[Bravo73]

Hello,

 

I don't post very often on here but I have got a suggestion that might help.

 

I have recently had to replace the rear diff on my 2008 Scout. Skoda wanted over £3k(!) for the part but I managed to source a second hand one for considerably less. I still have my original diff. Although the diff case is cracked and the diff itself is buggered, as far as I know, the Haldex control unit still works fine. Rather than pay £1k to Skoda for a new one, would you like to buy my old one off me?

 

PM me if you want to sort something out.

[FB011964]

FINAL RESULTS/CONCLUSION:

 

Hello all,

Apologies for the delay in posting the results/conclusion to this post, as I had been awaiting full wiring/connector check and diagnostic by the Skoda tech at the garage to 100% determine if my problem with TCS/ESP light illuminated and what appeared to be only FWD, with no hill hold control etc. was in fact a failure of the Haldex 4x4 Control Module (J492).

 

I informed the Skoda tech of the resulting fault codes obtained by having a VCDS scan run independently by an other helpful Briskoda member (results in previous posts).

 

I requested and It was agreed that it would be best and most effective step to rebook the vehicle for a full diagnostic and wiring check to and from the Haldex Control Module (J492) to rule out any possibility of either wiring, connector or sensor faults elsewhere in the "system", and only then, if all proved to be clear, would the Haldex CM be replaced.

 

I can now report that all wiring, connectors and sensors proved clear and the Haldex CM (J492) (Old part : 1K0 907 554 L) proved to be at fault and was replaced with new unit (Pt No: 1K0 525 130 L) including 2 year warranty.

 

I am glad to say once again the Scout is back to her old self and feels great to drive        

 

Thanks to all who contributed to this post.    

 

Cheers,

Martin

[silver1011]

As the owner of an older model Scout can I ask what the total bill was?

[DGW]

Not as much as Car Care Plan will be paying for the replacement final drive unit (diff, Haldex 4 unit and controller) just fitted to my 2011 Octavia II to replace the one that seized solid last week. The complete unit cost £3164. I will find out tomorrow what the labour charge is.

[FB011964]

As the owner of an older model Scout can I ask what the total bill was?

Well it was a little cheaper than I was originally quoted (£1005.24) and no doubt quotes for parts and labour may differ in other parts of the country.

 

It may have been cheaper to drive over to the Czech Republic to have it fixed, seeing as that's where the new control unit was made/shipped from (according to the part label on the box).

 

The cost of the Haldex control unit itself was £742.70 and then add to that labour and where you get your trousers taken down by the UK Government and good old VAT (thieving bar stewards    ).

 

Not as expensive as Denis' issue though or the chap who posted earlier on with what appears to be a similar problem in that he had the rear differential pack up on him and £3k to fix etc.

 

I do hope this isn't yet another problem lurking for us Octavia Scout owners to encounter.

[FB011964]

Not as much as Car Care Plan will be paying for the replacement final drive unit (diff, Haldex 4 unit and controller) just fitted to my 2011 Octavia II to replace the one that seized solid last week. The complete unit cost £3164. I will find out tomorrow what the labour charge is.

I guess that's fortunate you won't be shelling out £3,164 Denis.

 

If it was the case you had to pay, I would be getting the old parts back (Haldex CM etc) as there appears to be some residual value there to flog and recoup some cash.

 

It is somewhat concerning with regards to the increased number of either Quality (fitness for purpose) and or performance issues, of what you would expect to be quite robust and sturdy components, with a reasonable working life expectancy.

 

Sadly, with all the recent well publicised number of product failures resulting in either warranty/good will vehicle recalls of other manufacturers, methinks that some of that quality and robustness has been sacrificed for maintained or better profit margins through the recession.

 

I only hope that after building a well respected brand name over the years, that Skoda hasn't also chosen the path of profit over Quality.

[silver1011]

Well it was a little cheaper than I was originally quoted (£1005.24) and no doubt quotes for parts and labour may differ in other parts of the country.

 

That's still a fair chunk to pay on a 2007 car. Glad it ended up being a little cheaper than expected though!

 

Just out of curiosity, I wonder if you could simply remove or disengage the rear wheel drive to avoid the £3K+ bill and turn the Scout into a 2wd?

[silver1011]

Not as much as Car Care Plan will be paying for the replacement final drive unit (diff, Haldex 4 unit and controller) just fitted to my 2011 Octavia II to replace the one that seized solid last week. The complete unit cost £3164. I will find out tomorrow what the labour charge is.

 

No good will from Skoda UK? On a 2011 car you must be only just out of warranty?

[FB011964]

That's still a fair chunk to pay on a 2007 car. Glad it ended up being a little cheaper than expected though!

 

Just out of curiosity, I wonder if you could simply remove or disengage the rear wheel drive to avoid the £3K+ bill and turn the Scout into a 2wd?

That's the price of owning a car with lots of electronic sensors and control units, the potentially high prices for replacement electronic components and or techs to fix them when they go wrong.

 

I am not advocating that this be done, but if you wished to save on the £3k bill wouldn't it be a simple case of obtaining either a "Wrench with a monkey attached to it" or a "Monkey wrench" and disconnecting the prop shaft and maybe the Haldex electrics?

 

This would possible affect your ABS and any other associated integrated systems (ESP, ABS, TCS, HHC etc).

 

It would probably light your dash like a Christmas tree and most probably put you, the vehicle, any occupants and any other road users at risk and likely void your insurance if not declared.

 

Probably best to get it fixed and accept the cost, or buy a car that is cheaper to maintain.

 

That's why I wish I still had some of my older vehicles. Cheap for parts, mostly a doddle to fix, and easy to repair for most DIY mechanics.

 

In all honesty though, the Octavia Scout drives like a pig on FWD only, as I can attest, having driven it briefly in this condition.

[DGW]

No good will from Skoda UK? On a 2011 car you must be only just out of warranty?

Fortunately no goodwill was necessary. The Extended Warranty covered all the parts and labour. My car now has the latest revisions of the final drive indluding Haldex 4 coupling fitted. I assume the same applies to the Haldex ECU which is part of the complete final drive unit. I had hoped to be able to quote the full repair price for reference but the insurer does not have to pay the retail price for the parts and probably gets a discounted labour rate too. If I paid for the repair out of my own pocket it would have been in the order of £4000. And had I put £25 a month into a jar to cover any repairs instead of buying a warranty, that would have taken over 13 years to save the £4000.

I am not advocating that this be done, but if you wished to save on the £3k bill wouldn't it be a simple case of obtaining either a "Wrench with a monkey attached to it" or a "Monkey wrench" and disconnecting the prop shaft and maybe the Haldex electrics?

Whilst that might work for Haldex ECU failure, with the possible limitations/problems you have identified, it wouldn't have worked in my case where the diff seized.