Hello My Mk2 Fabia Peeps,

 

Seen as we all by law have to have a degree in automotive oils and acceptable consumption levels for a 1.4tsi twincharged vRS, this should be a breeze.

 

I have been reading up on oil :peek:

 

I am due to change my oil!

 

I have been running 0w30 Castrol Edge FST

 

My car has hit a healthy 130 degrees indicated oil temp on track.

 

So what have I learnt today that is worth sharing that others may or may not know (Thanks to Mr Opie the Oilman) , CST = Centistokes, oil viscosity is extremely important but it seems is not well understood.

 

I recommend these links http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Lubricating-a-Modified-Car.pdf and http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Engine-Oil-Viscosity.pdf

 

So two points on oil, an oil needs to be viscous enough when cold to flow around the engine and protect it, an engine oil needs to be able to retain a useful viscosity at the upper end of your engines temps and not break down again to maintain protection.

 

let's look at what 0W30 means  - well 'W' equates to pumpability the first number indicates how well the oil flows at low temperatures, or how quick it will get around your engine protecting it on a winters day   - to my mind 0 is therefore the best

 

let's look at what 30 means, 30 means that the oil is SAE 30 spec which means that we know in centistokes the viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees celsius  SAE 30 will be less viscous than SAE 40 at 100 degrees C and SAE50 holds it's viscosity to a higher temp again.

 

The first part and second part of an oil spec are not interdependant i.e all 0W and 5W oils flow well from cold - all good SAE 40 oils are about 14CST at 100 degrees whereas SAE 30 is less viscous at 11 CST

 

Both of these are interesting but not the whole story, the compostion of an oil mineral or synthetic etc also has an impact on it's shear strength, the point at which the oil breaks down.

 

Soooooooooo, and now I require your assistance oh wordly smart Brisky types.

 

Applying the above logic - does this Ester based fully synthetic 5w-50 Motul Engine Oil just look like the absolute daddy for day to day commuting as well as track work in my Stage 1 vRS??????      :clap:

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68893-motul-sport-5w-50-engine-oil.aspx

That's a 5w50 in your link I think! Interesting question but what Mr Opie thinks about that?

That's a 5w50 in your link I think! Interesting question but what Mr Opie thinks about that?

 

It is a 5w50 (5W pumpability = good) and (SAE50 better performance at High Temps=good)

 

Not VW 502 or 504 spec, but my car isn't stock either.

 

I am not in personal contact with Mr Opie

Applying the above logic - does this Ester based fully synthetic 0w-50 Motul Engine Oil just look like the absolute daddy for day to day commuting as well as track work in my Stage 1 vRS??????      :clap:

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68893-motul-sport-5w-50-engine-oil.aspx

 

It was just that the link doesn't match your post so I didn't understand if you were asking for a 0 or 5W one actually!

It was just that the link doesn't match your post so I didn't understand if you were asking for a 0 or 5W one actually!

 

Oops typo

 

well spotted, OP amended

Hello My Mk2 Fabia Peeps,

 

Seen as we all by law have to have a degree in automotive oils and acceptable consumption levels for a 1.4tsi twincharged vRS, this should be a breeze.

 

I have been reading up on oil :peek:

 

I am due to change my oil!

 

I have been running 0w30 Castrol Edge FST

 

My car has hit a healthy 130 degrees indicated oil temp on track.

 

So what have I learnt today that is worth sharing that others may or may not know (Thanks to Mr Opie the Oilman) , CST = Centistokes, oil viscosity is extremely important but it seems is not well understood.

 

I recommend these links http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Lubricating-a-Modified-Car.pdf and http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Engine-Oil-Viscosity.pdf

 

So two points on oil, an oil needs to be viscous enough when cold to flow around the engine and protect it, an engine oil needs to be able to retain a useful viscosity at the upper end of your engines temps and not break down again to maintain protection.

 

let's look at what 0W30 means  - well 'W' equates to pumpability the first number indicates how well the oil flows at low temperatures, or how quick it will get around your engine protecting it on a winters day   - to my mind 0 is therefore the best

 

let's look at what 30 means, 30 means that the oil is SAE 30 spec which means that we know in centistokes the viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees celsius  SAE 30 will be less viscous than SAE 40 at 100 degrees C and SAE50 holds it's viscosity to a higher temp again.

 

The first part and second part of an oil spec are not interdependant i.e all 0W and 5W oils flow well from cold - all good SAE 40 oils are about 14CST at 100 degrees whereas SAE 30 is more viscous at 11 CST

 

Both of these are interesting but not the whole story, the compostion of an oil mineral or synthetic etc also has an impact on it's shear strength, the point at which the oil breaks down.

 

Soooooooooo, and now I require your assistance oh wordly smart Brisky types.

 

Applying the above logic - does this Ester based fully synthetic 0w-50 Motul Engine Oil just look like the absolute daddy for day to day commuting as well as track work in my Stage 1 vRS??????      :clap:

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68893-motul-sport-5w-50-engine-oil.aspx

 

Good info there. I was obsessed with oil to the point I could possibly sit a degree exam right now LOL. I even sent my engine oil to a lab for full analysis , There is a thread with this somewhere here.

 

You hit he nail on the head with that Motul!!!

 

Reasons:

1. It has the best shear strength I've seen in retail available engine oils within usable SAE grade. There are better motorsport oils but not usable in winter

2. Esther formulation (esther oils are the best from chemical point of view) specifically designed to deal with medium to high petrol dilution - twinchargers run very rich at high revs, for different reasons, one of them IAT being over 50C with no more than 25C ambient

3. The highest Viscosity Index I've seen - see point 1 as well .

 

Winter viscosity index for UK (perhaps not Northern Scotland) does not need to be lower than 5, even 10 would suffice. IIRC 5W is rated to -15C?

 

 

I have been running 0w30 Castrol Edge FST

 

 

 

I wouldn't... turns to water at full load, especially during track work - my car burnt 250-300ml of 5W30 during HowFast? session last year at Bedford !!!

I wouldn't... turns to water at full load, especially during track work - my car burnt 250-300ml of 5W30 during HowFast? session last year at Bedford !!!

 

Mine didn't use a drop of oil over 60 minutes use and abuse at Castle Combe,  for superstitions sake I am loathed to change what has been a good formula for the car.  But likewise I understand that it is not the best spec oil for track work and with Blyton, Bedford and Combe on the horizon in the next couple of month I will gear my next service around setting up for these.

Mine didn't use a drop of oil over 60 minutes use and abuse at Castle Combe,  for superstitions sake I am loathed to change what has been a good formula for the car.  But likewise I understand that it is not the best spec oil for track work and with Blyton, Bedford and Combe on the horizon in the next couple of month I will gear my next service around setting up for these.

As I said before, you were not pushing hard enough    - just joking  .

In all seriousness, looks like your motor is one of the rare ones as far as cylinder castings precision and following lack of liners distortion resulting in no oil use. Valve train is the only other possible avenue for the oil to leave the engine through the combustion chamber - no external leaks assumed of course.

With that Motul you should see better compression and more power with less fuel used.

I found it well priced at http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/

When i first had a Brand New Toyota iQ 1.0 litre 3 Cylinder it was the first of the Euro 5 ones, late 2010

These were Euro 5 Emission engines, there had been Euro 4's on sale for 1 year before that.

 

So it's required oil was '5 W 30', and i did an Oil & filter change and that is what i used.

The next iQ 1.0 litre i bought was 14 months newer, but a used car when i bought it.

So i went to do an oil & filter change, (Not trusting Dealerships & Service Stamps in a Service Book.)

only to find that the Toyota Service Schedule oil for it now  showed the Toyota Specced oil as '0 W 30'.

 

The change being as i understand, to get the Fuel Consumption near the Official EU MPG Figures they published,

 they were no place near with 5 W 30 oil.

(there might have been more involved reasons like Warranty issues, but i am not aware of those.)

 

george

Exactly, oil is not matched to the motor but actually to get emissions and bhp figures. These low viscosity oils with limited amounts of engine protective additives to match emissions also offer very little resistance within the engine and improve friction losses. All well and good when you are mpg chasing Strangely enough BMW M series cars can only use 10W60 engine oils - go figure.

Just had a PM from Opie Oils.

 

On a car free from the constraints of warranty etc.  The OilMan thinks it is a grand plan to use the Motul, as my track temps are really rather too high for standard oils.

Recommended oil in Australia is.... 5W/30. Just throwing that in there. 

Any** oil is GOOD oil.

Compared to low oil/no oil.

Strange but true!

m

N.B.

**Chainsaw bar oils excepted

I use 5w40 to top up mark... I'd use 5w50 if I could find it as cheap

Jabozuma, 

My 4.6 V8 Stage 2 built by RPI to start & run just on LPG run with 20W 50 Classic Oil. 

 

But since it was a new tight build (not an old engine with plenty of slap) it Required the Battery with the Highest CCA i could get,

and still need a Second one on or a Battery Booster on it in the Winter, to get it to turn fast enough to fire.

this is what I use to top up, £4.99 anf 502 - 505 5W40 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230989048319?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Jabozuma, 

My 4.6 V8 Stage 2 built by RPI to start & run just on LPG run with 20W 50 Classic Oil. 

 

But since it was a new tight build (not an old engine with plenty of slap) it Required the Battery with the Highest CCA i could get,

and still need a Second one on or a Battery Booster on it in the Winter, to get it to turn fast enough to fire.

Yup, oil makes massive difference to the performance of the engine - well built small block V8 with huge compression will be always difficult to turn and 20W rating did not help either.

That Motul would be perfect

By Classic you mean mineral?

It is rather difficult to kill the engine by running it dry

I did go to Comma 20 W 50 which was Mineral,

but when the engine was first built i did use Millers Oils COR 20 W 50 Synthetic,

 but it was really not necessary after i knew the were no overheating problems,

so the cheap stuff was fine and it was changed every 3,000 miles.

Nothing wrong with mineral oil on that motor, especially if dropped that frequently