Been suggested I get some to increase my track width as this will improve handling which I agree with. My only concern is what extra stresses will this put on bushes or other parts of the car. Are there any particular points I need to keep an eye on? Also what spacer type would be best?

Spacering will theoretically improve road-holding by increasing track and hence roll stiffness.

 

OTOH, it will change your ideal geometry settings and about the only one that's readily adjustable is the track angle. It will also increase loads on bushes since the lever arm lengths increase, but that's usually about 3% increase in actual lengths. You may find more steering "tug" under acceleration on lock, or when you hit puddles or snow with one side of the car and not the other.

 

Finally, look for "hub-centric" spacers, and increase the length of your wheel bolts (or studs if applicable) by the thickness of the spacers.

And inform your insurance company!!

Spacering will theoretically improve road-holding by increasing track and hence roll stiffness.

 

OTOH, it will change your ideal geometry settings and about the only one that's readily adjustable is the track angle. It will also increase loads on bushes since the lever arm lengths increase, but that's usually about 3% increase in actual lengths. You may find more steering "tug" under acceleration on lock, or when you hit puddles or snow with one side of the car and not the other.

 

Finally, look for "hub-centric" spacers, and increase the length of your wheel bolts (or studs if applicable) by the thickness of the spacers.

Perfect. Thanks Ken

And inform your insurance company!!

Of course. All my mods are declared

I'm running spacers all round...17mm back and 12mm front. Car looks nice and I really like it. I didn't really feel that these affected my handling in any negative way. THe car feels more settled.

 

If you going to the National Meet you can have a nose around Martyn

 

Matty

I'm running spacers all round...17mm back and 12mm front. Car looks nice and I really like it. I didn't really feel that these affected my handling in any negative way. THe car feels more settled.

 

If you going to the National Meet you can have a nose around Martyn

 

Matty

Any additional tyre wear, especially on the insides? I'm convinced Fabia's wear a bit more on the insides as standard. This car does it, my Mk1 did it.

I fitted brand new tyres to my car at the same time when my spacers were fitted. I haven't any tyre wear yet...I have done around 2,000 miles since spacers and tyres were fitted

 

Matty

Any additional tyre wear, especially on the insides? I'm convinced Fabia's wear a bit more on the insides as standard. This car does it, my Mk1 did it.

I wasn't as clear about camber as I could have been. VAG cars (well maybe not quattros) run some negative camber, so do wear insides a little more. Spacers will leave the camber angle constant (but it may be that a change in camber would give better geometry). Changing the track changes the amount that the dynamic toe angle varies compared with the static one we can actually set, so failing to change the toe angle with spacers could cause more, or less, edge wear.

Lots of manufs say you need negative camber; my local garage bod says it is b&*£cks and sets the car up with neutral camber; had this done on the various makes I have owned over the last 30 years and never had an issue

Lots of manufs say you need negative camber; my local garage bod says it is b&*£cks and sets the car up with neutral camber; had this done on the various makes I have owned over the last 30 years and never had an issue

Interesting; you are aware that lots of cars are built with fixed camber settings? Is your "garage bod" aware that a strut (MacPherson, Chapman, or any of the various compound types) vary camber with travel?

Extra stresses on wheel bearings / bushes

But in my use of wheel spacers i haven't changed a bush or bearing yet.

I prefer the bolt through type (personal preferance)

The bolt to hub spacer then bolt wheel to spacer uneases me as the spacers are generally quite narrow 10-15mm and 10-15mm thread on aluminium does not inspire me with confidence

Edited 5 August, 201411 yr by BigJase88

Interesting; you are aware that lots of cars are built with fixed camber settings? Is your "garage bod" aware that a strut (MacPherson, Chapman, or any of the various compound types) vary camber with travel?

 

 

Yes.

 

I was going to say more, but I cant be arsed.

Extra stresses on wheel bearings / bushes

But in my use of wheel spacers i haven't changed a bush or bearing yet.

I prefer the bolt through type (personal preferance)

The bolt to hub spacer then bolt wheel to spacer uneases me as the spacers are generally quite narrow 10-15mm and 10-15mm thread on aluminium does not inspire me with confidence

I see where you're coming from, but STR that most of the load on a bolt thread (more so on a set screw since we're discussing wheel fixings which are usually sets and not bolts) comes on the first 3 or 4 turns of thread.

 

Also, aren't the  bolt hub to spacer... types usually used to adapt between two PCDs?

All adaptors will be bolt to hub

Spacers can either be bolt through type or bolt to hub type depending on widths and what you prefer. Generally upto 15mm will be bolt through and above its either or

From micksgarage

http://email.micksgarage.com//run/v3.aspx?m=H2NZaIhiaxYJfxvmZVVdcwxU15HdauvOQviMb4wStkR0RgVTHrS4rGbln4wcE32ti%2BJ6ZFgYkuY%3D_athz_dh7zws

I seem to recall the early Golf came with the concept of zero offset geometry (extension of the strut meeting the centre of the tyre's contact patch) which gave easy control in the even of a front tyre blowout.

A spacer negates that to a certain degree, of course.