Got some camber shims to go on my fabia to stop the scrubbing when I have 20mm spacers on but the brakes kept rubbing and locking on, took them off to realize the calipers are not attached to the actual part that is adjusted with the shims.

Just wondering how people have done it as have seen a few fabias with camber!

Cheers

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Edited 26 September, 201411 yr by Alex529

Washers.

On the caliper bolts to match the ones on the stub axel?

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Wahers...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/90281-diy-pic-guide-proper-re-alignment-of-rear-axle/

 

J.

He says to space the calipers out, which would work if adjusting it to the correct camber and toe but if having max negative camber won't the pads hit the disc at an angle?

Or would I bin the shims and use the same amount of washers on the 2 bottom stub axel bolts and the bottom caliper bolt?

Sorry if I don't make sense!

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You can buy kits to camber the carrier too,but as said. . Washers are simple n easier.

You can buy kits to camber the carrier too,but as said. . Washers are simple n easier.

 

Two issues IMO...

1) The camber kit pushes the disk out anyway, thus needs washers.

2) Extreme camber angles the disk relative to the caliper/carrier and pads.

 

I'd space it out equally a couple of mm's and see if that improves it.

 

J.

If its like the octy, where the shims go behind the hubs

U usually get spacers to align the caliper so its on the sane angle

But also get it checked on the hunter system, as with camber tends to come toe

And toe sucks bum

Two issues IMO...

1) The camber kit pushes the disk out anyway, thus needs washers.

2) Extreme camber angles the disk relative to the caliper/carrier and pads.

I'd space it out equally a couple of mm's and see if that improves it.

J.

With the shim kits you can get a max of -1.5deg . . Hardly extreme.

But with full camber you need to space the bottom bolt of the carrier more than the top. . Equal spacing will still have binding problems because the caliper will still be horizontal.

I used -1 shims on the octy

I tried -1.5 but it caused a total of 8mm toe in

So took out the -0.5 and went with a camber and toe correct

-1 shim and then corrected to

Total camber now at -2 with 1.5mm toe each side

Slot on

Drove like balls with fact to

Both camber and toe shims are full contact

Caliper realligned with washers as the shims to do so were abit soft :(

Tried this again today but with washers.

 

I had 2 washers on the 2 bottom bolts of the stub axel and then went to match this on the carriers but the carrier was just rubbing on the disc so tried a variety amount of washers on the top and bottom bolts of the carrier and I couldn't get it to sit at the same angle as the disc..

 

I'm wondering if anyone on here has negative camber and could go into a bit more detail on what i'm doing wrong?

 

Thanks in advance

Same angle is not the same as an acceptable angle. Careful with those carriers though. With angles would be easy to bend/crack the mounts.

I didn't try to have it exactly the same angle, just enough so the disc wasn't rubbing on the carrier, and I still couldn't get that so had to take all the washers off and leave it for now

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All sounds like a bit of a bodge to me like- spacing brake carriers with washers, the most important thing on you're car being messed on with not my cup of tea lol

I had to use 1mm washers to move my Cossie calipers out on my Sierra and it's always driven fine

Another option would be batter the hell out of the arch... <cough> gently manipulate and roll the arch lips away allowing clearance for the BF wheel/tyre/specer combo.

Paint will crack as will the underseal. Not cheap unless you're getting it painted anyway.

Yeah I was thinking of getting the arches rolled but would like a bit of camber too

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